How To Install A Sub In A G sedan Using Stock Bose System
Dont think the car being on or off matters its connected to a 12 v battery lol... so bridge it down to 2 ohms and i think that might work, also I think it was blue with a line running through it but i have an 04 g35 cant remember pretty sure l spliced 3 wires together with a nylon sleeve? ill take a look when i have a chance but my boy waiting for me with a blunt takes priority lol so itll prolly be tmrmw.
lol. ok thanks!
I spliced into the green wire from the amp for the remote, then I spliced into the 2 wires that went to the rear main speaks for the high low converter.
can you just check how many volts you have coming from your main speaker where you spliced into to get the signal for the high low converter please?
and how do I bridge down the amp?
I also have an 04 sedan g35
I spliced into the green wire from the amp for the remote, then I spliced into the 2 wires that went to the rear main speaks for the high low converter.
can you just check how many volts you have coming from your main speaker where you spliced into to get the signal for the high low converter please?
and how do I bridge down the amp?
I also have an 04 sedan g35
You in toronto ^? Its a 12v line bro the wire should be reading 12-14v And im pretty high lets see if I can explain this so you amp connectors look like this
+ - + -
1 2 3 4
if you put positive into 1 and negative into 4 you have bridged the amp. Only the speaker wire arrangment determines how many channels are being used. Also my wire one was brown the other was pink, brown was negative i think ill check tmmrw though hella cold.
p.s you might have 5 coonnectors cuz u have a 5 channel.
+ - + -
1 2 3 4
if you put positive into 1 and negative into 4 you have bridged the amp. Only the speaker wire arrangment determines how many channels are being used. Also my wire one was brown the other was pink, brown was negative i think ill check tmmrw though hella cold.
p.s you might have 5 coonnectors cuz u have a 5 channel.
no. im in California.
I have more than 5 connectors on my amp. it's a hifonics zuez. so it's pretty strong.
I'll try to bridge the amp tonmorow too. it's 1 am here. haha
and my rear speaker doesn't have 12v. it has 6.2v. so the speaker is bad?
I have more than 5 connectors on my amp. it's a hifonics zuez. so it's pretty strong.
I'll try to bridge the amp tonmorow too. it's 1 am here. haha
and my rear speaker doesn't have 12v. it has 6.2v. so the speaker is bad?
Ok cool, first things first, if its in the budget throw that amp in the trash and buy a new one Hifonics arent CA rated so when they say their amp puts out 20940923842390420 Watts it can legally be putting out 10 because its not regulated. Just an FYI, and your positive should be running 12v not 6.2 its the wire that you tapped into that is not a 12 v which is probably your problem lol bro look at the steps in the DIY again closely its all there.
What?! I thought those amps were some of the way ones along with others!
My budget doesn't allow for a new amp, well at least not now with a child on the way. But I do have an Mtx thunder amp as well. Which do you think is better to use?
And I did follow the steps man. I tapped into the brown connector on the rear speaker, I'm not sure if I check the (-) or (+) wire though. Even though, either one should be giving 12v right.
So I guess I have another problem if my stock speaker isn't getting 12v huh?
Ill have to ensure that the splice is a good hold. If not ill just tap into a different speaker.
Thanks for all the help man.
My budget doesn't allow for a new amp, well at least not now with a child on the way. But I do have an Mtx thunder amp as well. Which do you think is better to use?
And I did follow the steps man. I tapped into the brown connector on the rear speaker, I'm not sure if I check the (-) or (+) wire though. Even though, either one should be giving 12v right.
So I guess I have another problem if my stock speaker isn't getting 12v huh?
Ill have to ensure that the splice is a good hold. If not ill just tap into a different speaker.
Thanks for all the help man.
Dont know about the consistency of the other amp I know the mtx thunder puts out around 300rms so depends on ur subs rating which of the two amps would make the better pair. And yeah both negative and positive should be giving out 12 v but if you switch them around your line out converter will not work. Check if your wires are spliced together with a clean connection, get some shrink tube it makes for a much cleaner job, trust me in a G35 if u tape that **** itll unhook while your driving which does not make for a good time... lol Anyway I know this was delayed hopefully you figured it out and im glad i could help
I don't have the bose system in my 05 g sedan. I want to install my kenwood 1000W mono block amp and my 2 mtx 10" subs and keep my factory infiniti HU. Is this possible without the bose and if so, what type of sound quality should I expect with this setup?
No, you don't need bose at all. Use the signal for the rear speakers for your audio signal, and use the cigarette lighter power wire as the remote power signal. Run power and grounds as usual and you're set. Sound quailty will be just fine.
I have a 2004 sedan with the Bose system. Well, at first it did, anyway.
I replaced the stock headunit already with an Alpine CDE103-BT and the JDM trim and A/C controls. I had initially bought the PAC ROEM-NIS2, but my installer had me return that one and used a different harness and antenna adaptor. I think it was a Metra harness. I had the dash apart recently, and saw there are RCAs plugged into my head unit, but I don't believe the stock amp is in use. The rear sub hasn't worked since install, and my volume isn't the greatest. Maybe none of this is accurate, and I should take everything back apart and take pictures. Would the speakers be running off the harness, and the harness is plugged into my headunit, or is it all routing through my amp, but just not working quite right? I was in the room as he installed everything, and all the work was done right there in the console, so we didn't run new wires to the doors or trunk or anything like that.
I have since bought a used Bazooka tube, and am thinking of installing it. Should I go buy the PAC ROEM-NIS2 and install that, and then use the stock amp signal to tap for the Bazooka, or gut the BOSE amp and sub, run RCAs off the Alpine headunit to a fresh amp, and put some decent components speakers in my front door while I'm at it? I'm inclined to get rid of the stock Bose stuff after reading many threads on this subforum, rather than spending money making the sub tube work with the Bose system.
My car's just a daily driver, just wanting good sound to and from work, and the occasional summer joyride. I rarely if ever have anyone but my kids in the back seats, so if you all think I won't miss the sound in the back, I'm not really seeing the need to replace or connect the rear door speakers. My biggest complaint is that at 50-60mph with the windows down, I can drown out my stereo with wind noise. That's just not loud enough.
So, if you could spend a couple hundred dollars in my shoes, what would you buy to finish a decent sounding system? What's a decent set of speakers for the front doors, and a basic amp to drive them? Should I stick with Alpine components, since my headunit's already that brand? I'm pretty much a rookie at audio. If I'm going to need to replace wiring into the doors and stuff, I could, but I really don't want to if I don't have to.
I replaced the stock headunit already with an Alpine CDE103-BT and the JDM trim and A/C controls. I had initially bought the PAC ROEM-NIS2, but my installer had me return that one and used a different harness and antenna adaptor. I think it was a Metra harness. I had the dash apart recently, and saw there are RCAs plugged into my head unit, but I don't believe the stock amp is in use. The rear sub hasn't worked since install, and my volume isn't the greatest. Maybe none of this is accurate, and I should take everything back apart and take pictures. Would the speakers be running off the harness, and the harness is plugged into my headunit, or is it all routing through my amp, but just not working quite right? I was in the room as he installed everything, and all the work was done right there in the console, so we didn't run new wires to the doors or trunk or anything like that.
I have since bought a used Bazooka tube, and am thinking of installing it. Should I go buy the PAC ROEM-NIS2 and install that, and then use the stock amp signal to tap for the Bazooka, or gut the BOSE amp and sub, run RCAs off the Alpine headunit to a fresh amp, and put some decent components speakers in my front door while I'm at it? I'm inclined to get rid of the stock Bose stuff after reading many threads on this subforum, rather than spending money making the sub tube work with the Bose system.
My car's just a daily driver, just wanting good sound to and from work, and the occasional summer joyride. I rarely if ever have anyone but my kids in the back seats, so if you all think I won't miss the sound in the back, I'm not really seeing the need to replace or connect the rear door speakers. My biggest complaint is that at 50-60mph with the windows down, I can drown out my stereo with wind noise. That's just not loud enough.
So, if you could spend a couple hundred dollars in my shoes, what would you buy to finish a decent sounding system? What's a decent set of speakers for the front doors, and a basic amp to drive them? Should I stick with Alpine components, since my headunit's already that brand? I'm pretty much a rookie at audio. If I'm going to need to replace wiring into the doors and stuff, I could, but I really don't want to if I don't have to.
Replace the stock amplifier with a 2- channel amp running new fronts and use the tube for bass. Dont' run speakers in the rear at all. Don't worry about keeping everything alpine at all. With the aftermarket headunit, audio signals are audio signals, there's nothing magical about using all one brand of anything.
Also, go kick the installer in the taint. The ROEM-NIS2 is what you need to keep the bose amplifier working like it did with the stock radio.
Also, go kick the installer in the taint. The ROEM-NIS2 is what you need to keep the bose amplifier working like it did with the stock radio.
Guys how bout installing a sub amp on a base, non Bose sedan?!? LOC will be here momentarily, where do I tap for a signal!!? Edit: anywhere where I don't have to remove the door cover?
On a sedan, I'm pretty sure you can get to the speaker signal wires by removing the interior trim of the pillar between the two doors... there won't be a clip, but you can splice in to get the signal. You'll need to remove that trim panel to run the power wires to the trunk anyway, so it's a great spot to tap at.








