I think I will be doing this to mine pretty soon!

 

If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

 

Dude thanks for this write up, I followed it step by step lol, I was able to sink 0 Gauge wire through that rubber mount by the battery, everything else went according to plan with the remote, power, ground etc. I seem to have a little problem with my LOC. For one, when I removed the sheath I saw a pink wire with a blue line through it and a black one, so I'm assuming the black is ground and the other is no doubt positive. I installed one wire to positive and one to negative, i think maybe because I only connected the left channel of the LOC thats why my RCA's aren't working, anyway I'm really tired so ill twist both positives together and both negatives and then hook them up to the wire coming from the stock sub tomorrow . hopefully this works, if not please let me know what I'm doing wrong, Ill update you tomorrow.

 

Also, lucky that bolt works, some of the bolts used to mount rear seats have resistance in them and as such people avoid using any stock bolts, your best bet is to sand all the paint on some part of the body until you see bare metal, hold a self tapping screw to the bare metal hammer that bi-ch until it pierces and start screwing lol.

 

Good stuff man. Hope all works out for you!

 

Soooo. Really need some help here please. So I'm wired all to the trunk. I got my loc and twisted the positives together and the negatives together. Connected them to the correct black and white wire. Went into the amp harness. Opened up that sheath. Stripped the green with white wire. Twisted that and the blue wire that came with my amp kit into it. But ended up not wiring the sub and the amp up because it got to dark. Even though the stock amp is plugged back in and everything does it make sense for the speakers to not work? Do I just need to wire everything up ( the sub and amp) and then it will work? Or did I do something wrong...

 

I'm a little confuse about some of your steps/procedures. PM me

 

So I've read and searched through every forum I could that related to using a LOC to install aftermarket subs on a stock HU. This is still the thread that seems the most relevant but no one has answered the multiple questions about whether or not the process is the same for 2nd gen sedans. Does anyone know if all the amp/sub wiring is the same? I have an 08 G35x and would like to go ahead and follow this procedure but I don't want to find myself half way in, cutting wires, only to find out that a certain lead is actually a different color on our cars. If no one knows I guess my only option will be to dig in.

 

the 2008 is much different from the 03-2006 G35 Models

I had a 2004 G35 and now own a 2011 G37. The head units are totally different from each other.

Search myg37.com for wiring diagrams for the 2008 model.
I found the 2010+ electrical diagrams on that site.

 

Thanks for leading me in the right direction. I couldn't believe that no one had posted information about using an LOC in a 2nd gen, especially when the HU is so much more difficult to swap out.

 

Sorry for the late reply bro, yeah the 08 would be a world of a difference but you can still use the sub for LOC outputs and all you need for remote is a PREAMP wire running on a 12v line, all remote does is turn on the amp doesnt need much power just make sure the wire that you tap into is PRE AMP.

 

So once I figure out how to do this I will most likely start a how-to thread seeing as I have seen about 20 different people searching for the same answers I am. Again I am trying to install a line out converter, amplifier, and sub into my 2nd gen sedan. Anyone that knows what they are talking about, please jump in and correct/help me here...

This is the wiring harness going into the amp along with the best wiring diagram I could find to match my 08 G35x Sedan.

(Top left diagram)


This looks to me like the place where I would attach my Line Out Converter (LOC). Im going to use terminals (23 - Sky Blue, 24 - Violet, 25 - Yellow, and 26 - Brown). Even though the wire is not brown in the picture, I figure that this is the logical location for the positive (+) rear channel as the rest match up with the diagram. Number (22 - Grey) will be used as the amp turn on wire. I will then remove the harness from the existing sub and probably the actual sub as well.

I guess my other option from what I have read would be to just use the wiring harness that goes straight to the sub.

This is the wiring diagram I found for the sub harness (closest to it anyways)


From here I guess I could just tap into the terminals (1 - Violet, and 2 - Sky Blue) with the LOC and get the amp turn on wire from the other harness that I spoke about in the last paragraph, going into the amplifier.

Does anybody know what would be my best bet or if any of this sounds right at all?

 

terminals 1 and 2 are the correct ones to use

terminal 4 maybe a turn on lead. Do you have a multimeter? If so check for 12-14 volts of power when the car and radio are on. Then check to see if you still have 12-14 volts with the car off

 

double check that harness

it looks like it has 4 wires on the bottom, but in the diagram you show a harness with only 3 wires on the bottm

 

Right, that's the problem here is that these were the closest diagrams I could find but neither is exact.

Blaze, if I were to use terminals 1 & 2 for the LOC then I would have to use the amp turn on from the amplifier harness anyways wouldn't I? Cause what kind of turn on lead would #4 be if it is connecting to a sub? I thought turn on wires told the amplifier when to turn on, I don't see what that type of lead would be used for in this harness..