All good man we all start somewhere.

 

Great diy followed it step by step, now i have some subs in my car. I put the amp under the passenger seat. i didnt want to mount it and screw holes somewhere in the trunk. thanks alot.

 

Great to hear. What amp are you running?

 

just a simple 300 watt mono kicker amp to power 2 12 kicker comps. its nothing rlly good. but for me its enuf.

 

Kicker is good stuff, I'd run that over tons of other brands. Just because its not super high power doesn't mean it's bad stuff.

 

Is there a way to just replace the bose sub with an aftermarket one? Use stock amo etc. Stock sub cant handle the thump anymore, and dont want system in car. Already had one but don't want anything big anymore.

 

Yes, you can plug any 4-ohm sub into it, but the factory amp is so weak, you're never going to get much out of it. It'll likely be even worse than the factory sub (yes, that is possible).

I'd recommend a little 8" woofer that does well in an infinite baffle setup, and give it a small 100w amp if you are definitely against a small ported box in the trunk.

 

2nd for an 8" woofer. Kicker & alpine have pretty stout woofers out that have plenty of kick and require a sealed enclosure the size of a shoe box.

 

If i connected the loc to the speakers in the doors, would the subs pick up more bass? I feel like the stock subs in the doors are receiving more bass than the speaker in the trunk. would it make a difference?

 

In short......no. Wiring to the door speakers will not net you more bass. If you're feeling that little vibration of your pant legs, or leg hairs, from the door speakers it's deceiving you .

Hook it to the stock sub, set it, and forget it!

 

Can I use speaker input on my amp instead of buying an that converter?

 

Depends on the amp but for the most part I would say yes. Some amps only have that as a high level input, and filter out the frequency needed for a sub.

 

Also worth installing that I didn't include would be a PAC LC-1. Basically it goes in line between the line out converter and your amp and allows you to reduce the signal to 0 to the amp in case you want to turn the bass down without having to use the radio settings which would affect all the speakers in the car as well.

If you aren't a bass head, I would DEFINITELY install one of these. You can adjust the bass on the radio until the interiors sound good to you, your sub amp gains can be set to max(before clipping/distorting) and you can use this **** to adjust the RCA signal getting to the amp, which in turn lowers the "volume" you hear out the sub. A win all around!

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-remo...skuId=9046105#

 

I wanted to update this thread with my experience. My plan was to install a JL 8w6 dual voice coil sub with a 250/1 JL amp to stock head unit. I followed the instructions and spliced into the stock sub wire harness with the LOC. My amp turned on, but my sub barely moved. My sub was getting power but there was little excursion almost if it was way under powered. I took it to a local stereo shop and for $45 they told me I had to splice into the left and right full range speaker in my car. Don't ask me why cause everything he said went over my head. He recommended the rear speakers because they tend to be full range. However, Crutchfield list the rears as subs the same for the fronts not including the tweeters. So, I used this helpful thread https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...rams-pics.html found the rear pos/neg wires to the left/right rear speakers and reconnected the LOC accordingly. To my amazement the sub hits like it should. If you are experiencing the same symptoms PM me and I can get back to you the exact wires I spliced into.

 

What brand/model LOC are you using? Some actually have an adjustable audio filter in them so if it's set to only allow mids and highs through you would get virtually no sub movement.

Did you adjust you amps input sensativity and gain to see if that would help?