I have a Rockford Fosgate Mono x1 Amp (500W RMS @ 2 Ohms)
I am looking at the Rockford Fosgate T2 10" Power Sub but it is a dual voice-coiled sub. RMS Power Range is 150-800 Watts (or 75-400W per coil)...
Will my amp be enough to push this sub?
I am looking at the Rockford Fosgate T2 10" Power Sub but it is a dual voice-coiled sub. RMS Power Range is 150-800 Watts (or 75-400W per coil)...
Will my amp be enough to push this sub?
Rockford Fosgate Power 500bd --> http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3WMPpNK...tab=morephotos
This is an amp I have had for over 5 years and has been discontinued. I just think it might be underpowering the sub with only 250W RMS going to each coil. I am not even sure if that is the power that will be going to the sub? Will 500W RMS be going to the sub or is it in fact divided by the two voice coils?
This is an amp I have had for over 5 years and has been discontinued. I just think it might be underpowering the sub with only 250W RMS going to each coil. I am not even sure if that is the power that will be going to the sub? Will 500W RMS be going to the sub or is it in fact divided by the two voice coils?
I looked at that diagram but it still doesn't clarify what I am asking...
The amp will have a 2 Ohm load with it wired to the sub like the picture BUT will 500W RMS be going to the sub or will 250W RMS be going to each coil??
If the latter is correct, the sub is rated at 400W RMS per coil... ..will 250W RMS be enough going to each coil when it can handle 400W??
I just want to make sure that I do not under power this sub and have it clip out... I know (or heard?) that most RF amps are benchmarked at a higher rating than what is included in the stated ratings.
The amp will have a 2 Ohm load with it wired to the sub like the picture BUT will 500W RMS be going to the sub or will 250W RMS be going to each coil??
If the latter is correct, the sub is rated at 400W RMS per coil... ..will 250W RMS be enough going to each coil when it can handle 400W??
I just want to make sure that I do not under power this sub and have it clip out... I know (or heard?) that most RF amps are benchmarked at a higher rating than what is included in the stated ratings.
Registered User
at 2 ohms you will be pushing 500 to the sub thats 250 per coil and thats all you should need for it to hit, if you max out the sub with a more watts then te subs life will be shorter
now if you do it correctly you should be pusing close to the amps limits but it still will be safe and hit pretty damn good
dont worry about the numbers so much because amps and subs are usally underrated i think you will be ok and happy with that set up
just make sure you get the right box
now if you do it correctly you should be pusing close to the amps limits but it still will be safe and hit pretty damn good
dont worry about the numbers so much because amps and subs are usally underrated i think you will be ok and happy with that set up
just make sure you get the right box
Quote:
now if you do it correctly you should be pusing close to the amps limits but it still will be safe and hit pretty damn good
dont worry about the numbers so much because amps and subs are usally underrated i think you will be ok and happy with that set up
just make sure you get the right box
Thanks for helping me clear up that issue...Originally Posted by eljoker
at 2 ohms you will be pushing 500 to the sub thats 250 per coil and thats all you should need for it to hit, if you max out the sub with a more watts then te subs life will be shorternow if you do it correctly you should be pusing close to the amps limits but it still will be safe and hit pretty damn good
dont worry about the numbers so much because amps and subs are usally underrated i think you will be ok and happy with that set up
just make sure you get the right box
Now the next lol -- the box!
I have been looking at this one on Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236BS11...fer+box&tp=127
It has 1.5 cubic feet which the RF T210D4 sub requires ported box volume 1.25-2.0 cubic feet.
This box is tuned at 38 Hz which is close to what I would need for the lows to really grab...
So what do you think about this box selection?
Registered User
thats a good box but i think your better off at making one your self the design is not hard at all and it can realy save you some $$$ if your installing it
or if you have a shop do the install im sure if you show them that box they will make it for you and cheaper too
or if you have a shop do the install im sure if you show them that box they will make it for you and cheaper too
Registered User
you do know that 38Hz is retardedly low and very few songs really reproduce that note right?
oh and Joker. that's parallel that the picture is wired in, but good advice overall
oh and Joker. that's parallel that the picture is wired in, but good advice overall
Registered User
Quote:
oh and Joker. that's parallel that the picture is wired in, but good advice overall
my bad your right lolOriginally Posted by TroysG
you do know that 38Hz is retardedly low and very few songs really reproduce that note right? oh and Joker. that's parallel that the picture is wired in, but good advice overall
Quote:
oh and Joker. that's parallel that the picture is wired in, but good advice overall
Isn't that a good thing? I thought that if it was tuned to hit ALL the lows then that would reproduce the best overall range from low to mid...Originally Posted by TroysG
you do know that 38Hz is retardedly low and very few songs really reproduce that note right? oh and Joker. that's parallel that the picture is wired in, but good advice overall
I don't mind the high pounding bass but I really like to get the low-lows. You don't think that 38Hz tuned box would sound good??
The RF T2 Power sub ranges from 20-200 Hz
Registered User
most bass notes won't be truly audible until about 50Hz. if you're building an SPL car you tune to 40-50 Hz
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The bass note may not be AUDIBLE but it can be FELT...that's what I want more than anything. To have a set-up where the bass can get LOW.Originally Posted by TroysG
most bass notes won't be truly audible until about 50Hz. if you're building an SPL car you tune to 40-50 Hz
Registered User
You should never buy a generic "universal" ported box. Every sub is built different and will require specific tuning for optimal output. This includes specific volume and port size for tuning. Go to your local car audio shop and ask them how much they will charge you for a custom ported box tuned specifically to your sub will cost. If its just a box it shouldn't cost too much, it when you want it to be stealthed and/or needs fiberglass hat it will get really expensive.
