I just had my 2005 g35 coupe stock Bose headunit replaced with a Eclipse AVN726E

My main issue is static on the whole system, most noticeably on the rear speakers even when the volume is at 0.

It is going back to the radio shop this week but they tell me it may be a problem with the aftermarket headunit and the Bose amp.

They said if they can't fix it they would just run speaker wire from the headunit. I find this to be unacceptable.

Any thoughts or suggestions on things I can do or make them do to correct my static issue?

thanks!

 

it's just the way it is....it's hard to get the bose amp to cooperate with any aftermarket headunits. Using the aftermarket headunit's internal amp and directly connecting them to the speakers wouldn't be such a bad idea(as long as the internal amp can handle 2ohm speakers). Although the headunit might run a little hotter even if it's capable of running 2ohm. However, this will completely bypass the bose amp.

Another option would be to swap out the bose amp with a nice 4 channel amp, but i would also recommended running some better RCAs instead of using the stock signal cables originally intended for the bose amp.

 

Is there a proper way or adapters to hook up the amp? maybe they used the wrongs one/method?

I don't really have the $ for the amp lol

 

I don't think it's necessarily any of the adpaters used. If i'm not mistaken, the bose system consists of a balanced signals for noise reduction.

Replacing any of the bose components seem to disrupt those balanced signals, I'm not really familiar with balanced signals but my best guess is that the bose has it's own way of suppressing noise in other ways of a simply grounded it the chassis.

I swapped out my bose amp for some cheap 4 channel rockford amp on craigslist for $50 and it sounds great. I had some noise when I used the stock signal wires originally intended for the bose amp. So i replaced those with some shielded RCA and all the noise dissappeared. You can give some new RCAs a try but the bose amp will still induce noise probably.

 

i think deezflip hit it on the head...you have an amp that is designed to run differential balanced, and with the new headunit it is sending just a regular unbalanced signal. This can cause the noise you are hearing. In my experience working at a shop, we would NEVER do a deck with a bose amp, without bypassing that amp with a rewire. Then you run into impedence issues, which led us to the most common solution...not do it unless they are buying speakers too. It costs more, sure...but in car audio you have to fix the weakest link first. Now that you have the HU done first, best option would be new speaks and a rewire...just my .02 though.

 

The Bose amp is the worst part of the Bose system. It's low powered and has funky sound shaping built in.

 

You most likely have an unbalance set of rca outputs connected into the balance inputs of the Bose. This is bad for several reasons including grounding the negative half of the balance input. If a shop did this you may want to go to another shop. If you are staying with the Bose amp (which I would replace) then what you need is what is called 'balance transmitters'. These will convert rca to balance and should be installed as close as possible to the head unit. You may get away with a balance converter which cost about 20 bucks but these are typically inductor based and will degrade the sound and will not impedance match.

There are many 2 ohm amps so probably the best way if one is on a budget is to find a reasonably priced amp, keep the speakers, and then upgrade from there. I would get a 5 channel amp so you can connect all door speakers and a sub in the back. Many have 2 ohm options which can be changed later if you change your speakers. However aftermarket speakers such as Infinity are also 2 ohm. You'll probably have to set the levels down low until you upgrade the speakers and then you may want to look at the speaker wire gauge on the stock speakers as that may need to be fixed as well.

Optionally check the output impedance capability of the head unit which is probably close to equal that of the stock Bose in other ways. Most do not have a dc-dc converter and therefore will output about 22 1/2 watts per channel with standard single sets of push pull outputs. This is pretty much standard with the built in head unit amp as your rail voltage is your battery/alternator voltage. You will however probably lose the use of your sub.

If the budget was not a concern I would do the following:

One -

Connect the rca outputs of the new head unit to balance transmitters with a high output voltage (up to 50 volts). This increases the signal to noise ratio.

Two -

Run new balance lines to the back.

Three -

Connect the balance lines to balance receivers capable of the higher voltage balance transmitters. These receivers can now either convert the balance signal to rca or if the amp supports it to a lower level balance signal.

Four -

Run new speaker wires to the doors, etc. Install quality speakers with heavy isolation damping mats everywhere.

Five -

Enjoy.

If noise is low you can eliminate number one and number three. I would however go with number two and run this down a separate path than your speaker wire or power (and anything else) by at least 18 inches (or as far as practical).

 

I have a 09 G35 sedan with the Bose sound system. As you could guess my stereo crapped out on me. Now from reading tons of forums about people replacing the factory system and then having it happen to them again, I’ve decided to go with a single disc aftermarket head unit. I’m not really familiar with audio stuff and my head feels like it’s going to explode from all this information. Can someone just confirm for me that I have everything I need to get this POS working? Keep in mind I’m on somewhat of a budget, nothing crazy but I want to fix it and finally enjoy after dealing with this problem for awhile.

- I’m probably getting the Sony WX-GT77UI
•Input Power : 12 V DC car battery (negative ground (earth))
•Output Power : 52W x4 High Power - 17 watts per channel minimum continuous average power into 4 Ohms, 4 channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz with no more than 5% total harmonic distortion.
•Digital-to-Analog Converter : 24bit
•Frequency Response : 10-20,000Hz
•Output Impedance : 4-8 Ohms
•Preout Voltage : 2 volt

- 70-7551 Wire harness

- A dash kit with the separate circuit board for HVAC


Now, I need to replace the amp too? What’s this about replacing wires? And what adapter do I need to do the swap?


I've read thread after thread on this but just need someone to confirm I'm not missing anything. Thanks guys so much!

 

What year G35 Sedan did you say you had? There isn't a 2009 G35 Sedan... It's a G37. If it is a G37, you're still under warranty and that's that.

If you mistyped the year, and you're 06 or older, to replace just the HU, you need:
70-7551 Wire Harness ($20)
JDM or Metra Double Din kit (huge preference for JDM here) (JDM: $350, Metra $180)
A generic double din trim ring if using the JDM kit ($10)
Nissan/Infiniti diversity antenna adapter ($15)
PAC SWI-PS steering wheel control adapter ($50)
Wire nuts/crimp connectors ($5)

If you're dropping the $300+ just to be able to install another HU, why are you going with a stereo that's so... lame? For $350 or less, you can pick something like the Pioneer AVIC U310BT - I installed one of these for a co-worker yesterday in his G35 Coupe to replace his Bose - which has built-in bluetooth, navigation, detachable face, full iPod/iPhone control...
If you're that strapped for cash, save for a few more weeks before upgrading the headunit instead of wasting it on something you'll want to replace later.

 

No idea how I typed 09, the car is a 03. I guess I don't want to put in anything "lame" but the car has over 100,000 miles and it seems like this is snowballing out of control. I have to replace the headunit, I have to replace the HVAC with a whole new dash kit, if you replace the headunit you should replace the amp, if you replace the amp you might as well replace the speakers. I just want it to work! I want something that sounds nice but I don't need top of the line.

People say the only way to fix this for good is to replace the HU but is there a simpler way? Could I keep everything stock but just replace the circuit board with two separate ones for the HVAC and sound system? I've heard multiple causes for this issue. Is it because a CD jams, sends bad signals to the circuit board and fries it? Is it because the circuit board is in charge of too much (HVAC and sound)?

I loved my G35 until this happened and now I hate it. I'll never buy Infiniti again because it's a well documented problem but Infiniti refuses to solve it.

 

The factory stereo is fairly fragile.

The easiest fix is to pick up a used one from the marketplace, and just replace the HU with stock. Some go for as little as $100. You may be able to do the punch it in the side fix, but please remove it from the console first. Breaking a broken radio, no big deal. Breaking your center console? Bad.

The headunit was built by Clarion or Bose, and Infiniti replaces it as long as it's under warranty. I am unsure if they stuck with Clarion in later Infiniti systems after the faults became apparent, but Bose has always been crap audio with more money in marketing than engineering or materials, but the uninformed masses have been deluded by advertising (which hasn't changed on 20 #^&$ years) and think it's the best thing around. The same way that millions of teen girls and middle-aged house wives eat up the crappy twilight series drivel despite horrible reviews, people demand Bose.

 

Use this. RCA out to stock amp speakers. PAC OEM-1or2

 

How do you get the radio out? I posted that question but no answers yet, I wish I could just pay someone to fix it, BUT like everyone else, job cuts hit my job with 40% pay cut, at least I have the ability to do the work but as I mentioned, the way to get to the radio is the big issue. I really do not want to change the factory radio, with my bad hearing, it sounds fine to me, and looks good the way it blends into the dash.

 

Look in the double din shopping and resource guide of mine that's sticky'd. The resource section has several guides for removing teh stock radio.

 

What is the double din resource guide? I am going to get an interface unit and use the i-pod and no more CDs! if that's the problem with the speaker cutting out, I will eliminate this problem by going to the i pod! This car is a project! But it will not beat me, I have overcome the pitfalls of race prepping a 1968 Olds Cutlass that did 0 to 60 in 4.85 sec! Two tons and 31 rear gears. They said it could not be done, they don't know my determination!