Finally going DD with new speakers...need feedback from experts!
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Finally going DD with new speakers...need feedback from experts!
03' Sedan w/ navi and bose system...Have been dealing with the error message and battery drain issue for 2 years now and I'm finally going with a DD HU and new speakers. Don't need huge bass, just a nice sound, and ipod use with steering wheel controls. Will go for Sirius & Bluetooth adapters later on. Here's my proposed setup:
- Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD (w/ CDIU200V ipod cable)
- metra wiring harness & metra antenna adapter
- JDM DD & AC controller
- PAC SWI-PS steering wheel controls
- Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch Components for front
- Pioneer GM6400F 4-Channel Bridgeable Amp
I have questions about the rear speakers. I have the sedan so I believe I have (2) 6.5" speakers in the rear door, sub in the back middle panel, and an amp in the trunk. Am I wrong here?
I don't want subs right now because I use my trunk a lot. I want to get rid of the stock sub & amp because I think that's where the drain on my battery is (probably caused by the crappy bose HU). What would be the best rear speaker setup for a good sound with a little added bass? Should I keep the stock speakers in the rear doors? Can I put another sub in that rear back panel? What should I do?
I've researched so much and just need some feedback from some experts. Thanks!
- Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD (w/ CDIU200V ipod cable)
- metra wiring harness & metra antenna adapter
- JDM DD & AC controller
- PAC SWI-PS steering wheel controls
- Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch Components for front
- Pioneer GM6400F 4-Channel Bridgeable Amp
I have questions about the rear speakers. I have the sedan so I believe I have (2) 6.5" speakers in the rear door, sub in the back middle panel, and an amp in the trunk. Am I wrong here?
I don't want subs right now because I use my trunk a lot. I want to get rid of the stock sub & amp because I think that's where the drain on my battery is (probably caused by the crappy bose HU). What would be the best rear speaker setup for a good sound with a little added bass? Should I keep the stock speakers in the rear doors? Can I put another sub in that rear back panel? What should I do?
I've researched so much and just need some feedback from some experts. Thanks!
#2
IMO, you are going to loose a lot of bass with the infinity's...you may want to consider at least a small sub to compensate for the infinity's -- or -- choose some speakers that have more bottom end *****.
the rears are 6.5's, amp should be under the rear deck on the left hand side...i wouldn't just throw in another sub in the deck and expect something phenominal, but if you were, make sure you look for subs that have a high qts, or say that they are for infinite baffle set ups...
your choice in amps is not the direction i would go... as far as the rears, it seems like a popular option here to keep them, but in some other more SQ minded forums i participate in, most people prefer not to have rears at all. Your choice, but if you forgo the rears, you save on install, speakers, amps, and you could spend that saved money on a nicer set of front speakers... just my .02 there
the rears are 6.5's, amp should be under the rear deck on the left hand side...i wouldn't just throw in another sub in the deck and expect something phenominal, but if you were, make sure you look for subs that have a high qts, or say that they are for infinite baffle set ups...
your choice in amps is not the direction i would go... as far as the rears, it seems like a popular option here to keep them, but in some other more SQ minded forums i participate in, most people prefer not to have rears at all. Your choice, but if you forgo the rears, you save on install, speakers, amps, and you could spend that saved money on a nicer set of front speakers... just my .02 there
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I'm doing a similar install in a week or two.
Here is what i'm doing, although i'm keeping the Bose Headunit.
I already have Infinity component speakers all around.
I'll be adding a JL Audio 500/5 Amp
This gives about 2x100W for the front, 2x25W for rear (which is fill anyways) and 1x250W for a subwoofer. Using a JL Audio 12" sub with enclosure for the sub.
The JL Audio accepts balanced-diff inputs, so its a direct tie into the stock harness (signals from the HU) - no need for LOC.
I also plan on running new speaker wire to all the front / rear speakers.
Those JL Audio 500/5 amplifiers are really nice and not too expensive. You can get them for about $400.00 a pop. If you want more power, they have the newer version with is a 900/5 for about $600.00.
The Infinity Kappa-Five amplifier is similar and about $300 for the amplifier. It also has differential-balanced signal inputs which is compatible with the stock HU.
But then again, you're putting in a new headunit, so it doesn't really matter, so you don't have to worry about interfacing the stock HU.
Here is what i'm doing, although i'm keeping the Bose Headunit.
I already have Infinity component speakers all around.
I'll be adding a JL Audio 500/5 Amp
This gives about 2x100W for the front, 2x25W for rear (which is fill anyways) and 1x250W for a subwoofer. Using a JL Audio 12" sub with enclosure for the sub.
The JL Audio accepts balanced-diff inputs, so its a direct tie into the stock harness (signals from the HU) - no need for LOC.
I also plan on running new speaker wire to all the front / rear speakers.
Those JL Audio 500/5 amplifiers are really nice and not too expensive. You can get them for about $400.00 a pop. If you want more power, they have the newer version with is a 900/5 for about $600.00.
The Infinity Kappa-Five amplifier is similar and about $300 for the amplifier. It also has differential-balanced signal inputs which is compatible with the stock HU.
But then again, you're putting in a new headunit, so it doesn't really matter, so you don't have to worry about interfacing the stock HU.
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Will Polk db6501 components add a little more bass than the infinity reference? Which would you recommend?
Here's the deal. I'm on a budget. I have the infamous error message on my bose HU. My battery keeps getting drained and I don't know if it's the HU or the Bose amp. I don't care to figure out which it is, I just want a new setup. I'm a daily driver and not a professional modder or audio snob. I just want it to sound decent.
If I get decent components and some decent coax's in the back with a decent 4 channel amp, will it make up for losing the bose amp with the 8" sub that comes with the premium setup? Or even though I have a sedan, should I get rid of all rear speakers and try to put one 10" sub in the trunk? Would a decent 4 or 5 channel amp be able to power front component speakers and one sub?
Here's the deal. I'm on a budget. I have the infamous error message on my bose HU. My battery keeps getting drained and I don't know if it's the HU or the Bose amp. I don't care to figure out which it is, I just want a new setup. I'm a daily driver and not a professional modder or audio snob. I just want it to sound decent.
If I get decent components and some decent coax's in the back with a decent 4 channel amp, will it make up for losing the bose amp with the 8" sub that comes with the premium setup? Or even though I have a sedan, should I get rid of all rear speakers and try to put one 10" sub in the trunk? Would a decent 4 or 5 channel amp be able to power front component speakers and one sub?
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#8
in my experience working at a audio shop back in the day, i got many disappointed customers when they did a deck and 4, because the aftermarket stuff doesn't extend as low. I would reccommend that you get a sub, but that's my opinion, but you will def loose some of the full range sound. Maybe a decent 8 would work?
If you are on a budget, I would seriously consider these PPI speaks... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PPI+356CS.html
these used to be an ADS brand and would sell for 500 before PPI bought them out. They are virtually the same, just rebranded, and if you are going for a budget system, you won't find a better deal that this for your money, imo.
another way to save money, contrary to what was suggested, is to get a decent 4 channel amp that is "3 channel capable" and run power off the front two channels to the front components, and bridge the rear channels to run the sub. Then if you want rears anyway, you can run deck power to them. This will save money on equipment and install (if you are doing it at a shop).
I agree with Wrathernaut though, before you do any of this, pull the fuse and see what happens. I would hate it if i blew all that money and the problem actually wasn't fixed.
If you are on a budget, I would seriously consider these PPI speaks... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PPI+356CS.html
these used to be an ADS brand and would sell for 500 before PPI bought them out. They are virtually the same, just rebranded, and if you are going for a budget system, you won't find a better deal that this for your money, imo.
another way to save money, contrary to what was suggested, is to get a decent 4 channel amp that is "3 channel capable" and run power off the front two channels to the front components, and bridge the rear channels to run the sub. Then if you want rears anyway, you can run deck power to them. This will save money on equipment and install (if you are doing it at a shop).
I agree with Wrathernaut though, before you do any of this, pull the fuse and see what happens. I would hate it if i blew all that money and the problem actually wasn't fixed.
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I checked the battery drain today with my multimeter. I unhooked the negative terminal, lowered the windows, turned off all switches, and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Started testing and the drain was off the chart. Started pulling fuses out and then replacing them. When I pulled the radio fuse out, the meter settled into a normal mA range. Done a lot of research and this seems like a common occurrence unfortunately.
I've decided just to get a new HU, ipod adapter, steering wheel controls, DVD bypass, and JDM DD kit. Want to do speakers, amps, and a sub but I don't have the funds and I want to do it right! I'll incrementally get the rest of it done.
I know the pre-amp voltage for the Pioneer HU I'm getting is 4V so I shouldn't have any volume problems with the metra 70-7551 harness. Anything I need to let the installer know before I decide to do the damn thing?
I've decided just to get a new HU, ipod adapter, steering wheel controls, DVD bypass, and JDM DD kit. Want to do speakers, amps, and a sub but I don't have the funds and I want to do it right! I'll incrementally get the rest of it done.
I know the pre-amp voltage for the Pioneer HU I'm getting is 4V so I shouldn't have any volume problems with the metra 70-7551 harness. Anything I need to let the installer know before I decide to do the damn thing?
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