G-Fanatic, where did you install your xBox and how are you doing the switching between xBox and Nav?

 

G-Fanatic!! EXCellent JOB!!.. Im looking to do the same thing. I woould love to check out your install . Where do u live? Im from NJ And can you post or send me pics of where you placed the Xbox? and how you ran the wires?? Also as far as the Xbox modding goes... I have the v1.1 xbox and ordered the smartxx modchip with a 200 Gig Hard drive. Im going to be modding it soon waiting for winter break. Ne way u can help me out a lil bit?

 

I really wanted to create a step-by-step tutorial on this, but I just got a bit frustrated and didn't sorry. In any case, here's my setup, very simple at this point.

Parts
1) XBOX (mine is modded, but it doesn't have to be if you just want to play games and watch DVD)
Cost: $300 (includes XBOX, 120gb Maxtor HD, Xecuter 3 mod chip)

2) NavBox
Cost: $150 www.generatorlabs.com

3) PAC AAI-NIS (one end connects to the Navbox, other end connects to the SAT plug on the factory radio) This is definately the way to go for sound.
Cost: $95 Autotoys.com

4) 6 ft RCA cable (any brand, I brought Radio Shack gold plated)
Cost: $12

5) DC-AC Power Inverter 400W (buy the ones with a switch that can always be placed in the "On" position, not a soft push button that turns it on/off)
Cost: $50

6) Wire crimper/stripper tool
Cost $10 at radioshack

7) Butt-end connectors (for 22guage wires, this allowes you to connect two spliced wires together using the crimping tool, thus no soldering needed)
Cost: $1.50 at radioshack

8) 12VDC Car Power Adapter 10-Ft. Coiled Extension Cord (this allowed me a simple solution to keep my power inverter in the trunk by connecting it to a longer cigarette lighter adapter that I plugged into the 12V plug located under the armrest (not needed if you can find another way of powering your power inverter. This was just simpler for a newbie like me)
Cost: $8 radioshack link to product

9) Labor Time (9 hours, for me at least. can be done quicker I'm sure)
Cost: Priceless

-Basically my XBOX and power inverter is in the trunk.
-The Navbox is attached to the rear ashtray cover via velcro
-The PAC AAI-NIS is by the left side foot of the passenger seat, velcroed to the side carpet
-Wires are all tucked in under the passenger side center console (where the carpet meets the plastic of the center console)
-any wires going to the trunk were tucked in between the the crevice of the rear seat and the rear center console. I then pulled down the rear seats down and was able to pass the wires to the trunk. You really can't see much wires.
-As for turning on the XBOX, at this point I'm doing it manually.
-As for switching back and forth from XBOX to Navigation, Daniel at generatorlabs.com provides you with a switch that you can place somewhere on your car. I dremeled a hole by the plastic latch area of the armrest where you go to open the armest. I chose this location because it's easy for my to quickly change to NAV if I see cops coming. I heard it was illegal to watch certain videos while driving in NYC.

I will get more pics of my wiring and switch location by tomorrow.

Sorry for the long post.

 

G-Fanatic, can you please post pics of how you mounted the xbox in the trunk? Thanks!!

 

No special mount. I just have it sitting on 2 pieces of foam to minimize vibration. I'm almost embarassed how I have it at this moment. But it works and it's easy for me to remove when i want to take it to a friends house, or just add more stuff to the HD. I'll post a pic anyway, just don't laugh.

 

The doorbell seemed to work nice. But then it seems like it got worse and worse as the weather got colder...I live in the Chicago area. Sometimes it'll take 1-2 tries to power on...on day it wouldn't work for like 15 minutes. I think I'm going to try an alternative solution. I found a nice mod which allows you to use the DVD remote to power on the Xbox. So obviously this won't be of much use to you if you aren't using the remote. But if you're curious check out this site:

http://cheaplpc.com/xir/

Luckily when I ran the cabling to the front of my car to extend the IR receiver for the DVD remote I used a CAT5 cable. So I can basically run this to the front of my car without using any additional wire. I'll probably try this out at home first and see how well it works. Then if that looks good I'll put it in the car.

 

I hear ya. Mine's been sitting on the floor of the trunk on the left side for the past few months. I wanted to make sure everything was going to work well before permanently mounting it. Now that everything seems to have matured I'm probably going to go to a local shop and have them fabricate a flush mounted box for the Xbox.

 

The doorbell does work pretty well, it's just the weather that's ****ing with it...and my Xbox for that matter. Christmas Eve I was driving out to my parent's house...when I got in the car in the morning the temperature on the gauge read 0 degrees. The Xbox wouldn't turn on with the remote, and when I turned it on manually the BIOS sound was looping and the Xbox wouldn't boot up. I tried multiple times. So I just turned it on and let it loop for about 15 minutes figuring it would generate some heat inside the box. After that I turned it off and on, the system booted but then I got a hard drive error. So again I just left it on and let it heat up. After 30 minutes or so the system finally booted back up. That was the worst I've ever seen it...but it was also by far the coldest it's been since I've had my Xbox in the car. After the system is heated up and running, if I shut off the car and turn it back on again, the remote works perfectly. It just has trouble when it's warm. I'm not interested in seeing how the hot summer weather is going to affect it, but I guess I'll find out.

Anyways...just a warning for all of you that plan on mounting your Xbox in your car if you live in a harsh winter state.

Edit: Um, why the hell is my post edited? Is that the forum or something with my account? In either case that's really gay. I wasn't aware this was an under-age message board that doesn't allow profanities.

 

Slizzap, i just installed the door bell thing today in the xbox. Have not yet tested it in the Car, but in my house i have to be about 10 feet away MAX in order for it to work. Is there ne way to entend the range? I attacted an extra length of wire on the reciver but still not great. Thanks

 

I found that extending the wire didn't do a damn thing. I did find that the Xbox chassis itself was interfering with the range. I originally mounted it to the rear metal casing with some double-sided tape right behind the CD-ROM. My range was roughly 5-10 ft. with that setup. And then when I put the cover back on it cut that down to a foot or two. So then I mounted the doorbell PCB to the underside of the CD-ROM and removed the metal casing from the Xbox cover. After doing that I was able to get a good 20-25 ft. range from it. I've had no problems at all using it inside the car in that regard and I have the Xbox mounted at the rear of the trunk.

 

what are the differences between the navbox unit and the AVelectroncs unit?

 

where do the blue and red switch Pac AANIS wires go? also what color is the switched ground output wire from the AANIS that dollar99 was talking about.
i couldnt find the AANIS wiring diagram.

thanks

 

You can find some comparisons here https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=NAVBOX

 

I recieved the product on today. Nice shipping time. Well, I have few question. The NAVBOX module is opened, without a cover. Is this normal?
and there is no instruction on which wire to tap in to what wire.
Is there one I can get? I need it fast so I can install on Friday.
Any help will be appreciated~~

 

and I notice there is big difference between one I recieved and the one displayed on the site. Is everywire is same as the old version of NAVBOX?