Where and what wires did you tie into for power to the NAVBOX? Are the instructions that come with the PAC fairly good? Once I figure out all the details, I will be ready to order and try out my not so clean but very portable approach.
Thanks

 

Your wiring sounds correct, The white wire is the antenna. Are you using RF controllers for the xbox? If so the designtech should be mounted away from the xbox , Mine is about 2 feet away and under the trunk mat/flooring. Try and run the white wire verticle up against the side of the car the higher the better.

 

The installation of the PAC is the easiest of everything. I didn't even need to look at the instructions. You pull out the main plug from the back of the head unit, plug in the PAC piggy back connector, then connect the original plug into the piggy back connector. Then plug in the 2nd connector to the SAT input. Then you just plug in your RCA cords. Super easy.

For the power, I ran a 10 guage wire from the battery to the trunk. Ran that to a relay, triggered by the cigarette lighter, which gives juice to the inverter. I have the NAVBOX power connected to the + terminal on the inverter.

 

After I determined which wires I was going to use (yellow/orange and black/grey) I de-soldered the remaining wires from the board to minimize the mess. Maybe that's why Homelink isn't working too well, but then again the remote that came with it is working fine so who knows. Maybe I'll try and solder that white wire back on and see if that improves anything.

I have the DesignTech mounted to the floorboard of the trunk just to the right of the amp. The Xbox is on top of the mat on the driver side. And I am using a wireless controller for the Xbox. I don't recall if it's 802.11G offhand. If so I'm thinking that wouldn't conflict.

 

Has anyone put together a complete parts list and step-by-step install of everything? It's kinda hard to follow here...it'd be nice if it was a sticky.

 

Well desoldering the antenna sounds like the problem , After you put it back on play around with the location of it and it should work fine.

 

K , finished my install yesterday. Everything works PERFECTLY, no distortion on the screen whatsoever.

I decided not to use the designtech unit because it wasn't really needed. For the remote turnon, I used a wireless doorbell which was programmed into the homelink. For the video switching, I used the PAC AANIS's aux ground outputs.
To switch to XBOX screen, one would hit the SAT button once, the next time you hit the SAT button, it would toggle to NAV screen and so on. Much easier then using a latched converter with the designtech unit.

slizzap, I recommend you use the PAC AANIS to do the video switching.

_________________________________
430+ Horsepower at the crank.

 

Here is a list of parts I used for my install.

-Navbox unit (duh)
-PAC AAINIS
-Wireless doorbell from home depot (Battery powered)
-RCA splitter cable (radioshack)
-RCA cable
-400W power inverter
-Inline DC noise reducer (radioshack)
-Some butt ends and quick disconnects
-PAC IR-X (Infared repeater for xbox remote)

_________________________________
430+ Horsepower at the crank.

 

So if I understand you correctly you used an RCA splitter so the audio is going into both inputs? So that way when you switch to input 2 on the headunit you still receive sound but it switches to the NAV screen? What happens when you hit the DISC or FM button? Does it switch off the Xbox also?

Where did you run all your grounds? I have more distortion than I'd like, and it's starting to get on my nerves. I grounded the NAVBOX to the SRS module in the center console area. Then I had to extend the NAV/Xbox toggle wire to the trunk where it's connected to a relay with the DesignTech. I'm wondering if that ground is causing me issues. But I tested it before I mounted it and I still had some waviness in the screen. It's not really noticeable when there's motion on the screen, but it's not perfect.

 

I'll try putting the antenna back on. Hopefully I'll see some results with that attached again. I would just think that if that were the case then the remote that came with it would have issues too. But who the hell knows...it's worth a try.

Hopefully I can remember the exact spot from where it was desoldered.

 

"3. Solder another wire to the chassis of the xbox closest to the power supply and ground this."

Did I miss this in the instructions somewhere? I don't remember reading that. But I'll definitely give that a try. Points 1 and 2 are definitely taken care of.

Thanks.

 

If I lived in the same state as you I'd drive over to your place and give you a big kiss right now. OK, maybe not...but soldering the white wire back on fixed the problem. The Homelink buttons work flawlessly now. I just wish that was documented in the instructions so that I never took it off in the first place...I was just trying to minimize the mess.

Now onto troubleshooting my grounding problem. Thanks again for the help.

 

I now have a version of the NavBox that works with the PS2. It will be called the NavStation. All you PS2 owners--be on the lookout for it!


Nissan Enthusiast
Install Nav Mods In Your Car
www.generatorlabs.com

 

The XM in my car occupies the SAT button already and I would like to avoid FM modulation for sound. Any ideas on how I can do the sound for this mod?

 

Anyone willing to do the physical install on my car for $100. I already have a modded XBOX. I will go dollar99's route and purchase all the parts. If anyone wants to install it for me please PM me. I live in Queens, NY. Tx.

2004 Ivory/Willow Auto Coupe, NAV, Premium, Performance, Aero Kit with Spoiler 4-piece.

RIP babygirl