Does anyone think loosely packed polyfill in the coupe doors (and rear side panels, for that matter) would be beneficial with aftermarket speakers if the doors are already Dynamatted? I'm talking packing the area between the two metal surfaces of the door (space behind speaker cone), not between the plastic finisher and the metal (area in front of the cone). I've Dynamatted the "interior skin" of the door (sheet metal that is visible when you remove the finisher) and placed a square piece of Dynamat on the door directly behind where the speaker's magnet sits, plus a strip that runs across the middle of the "exterior skin" of the door (if you reached through the 6 1/2" hole). Would this be redundant? I am not totally clear on the purpose of polyfill (my impression is that it affects the volume-related functions of an enclosure) versus the effects of Dynamat (reducing sympathetic vibration/blocking out extraneous sound?). Sorry if this doesn't make sense, I'm really groggy because I just woke up thinking about this and can't get back to sleep.

Also, I'm struggling with placing my Diamond s600 tweeters (1 1/2") and crossovers in the doors. Anyone want to share how you were successful placing an aftermarket tweeter that is larger than the factory shiyat? Putting the new tweeter in the factory pod would require some funky cutting/fabrication because the factory tweeter perforations in the finisher are mostly for show, and most of the tweeter finisher/cover triangle is actually solid. I just had an idea--drilling through some of the faux "grill" holes? My plan when I had the door apart last time was flush mounting the tweeter in front of the door latch/lever, but I guess when I take the door apart for the third time, I'll consider drilling the "fake" tweeter grill holes to make them functional. I'll just have to figure out how to mount the tweets in the pod once I cut away the factory mounting posts. I'd love to hear an idea better than these two.

Last, any suggestions for a specific location for a big component speaker crossover? I could mock up the location with double sided adhesive tape and test locations by trial and error, but if anyone has found a magic spot where the door finisher will clear a 2" thick crossover, I'd love to know! Ahh, ain't insomnia grand? Thanks.

 

Coupe or sedan? The place I'd recommend for the crossover is different for each.

As for polyfil, I don't think you're going to notice a difference, plus then you have to worry about making sure it doesn't get into the window up/down gear and that the window has enough room to lower completely without having to strain. Not to mention that since it's in a door, it's gonna get wet and it won't smell nice if it starts to mildew or something.

 

Coupe. Didn't even think of the window--duh! Good point, don't I feel like a jackass. Now I know why there were mildew spots on the metal in the bottom of the cavity. I haven't rolled down my windows since putting in the dynamat in the doors yesterday. I only put in a few strips in the interior space of the metal door "shell" (the great majority of it is plastered on the metal facing the plastic finisher), but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I don't get ugly tar smears on my windows (or worse) the next time I roll them down. Damn it, the learning curve is a biyatch . . . Then again, even if I do mess up my windows, I won't have any regrets given the pleasure of learning something new and the great satisfaction of doing something myself. Thanks for the sage insight.

 

Polyfill is mainly used for subwoofer enclosures. It causes the "bass" to "move slower". This would make a smaller enclosure sound like a bigger enclosure but from my experience the effects of polyfill is only noticable in a ported enclosure.

In essence, it causes a boomier sound. So in addition to the other negatives of adding it to your door speakers, you probably won't notice much if any difference in sound even if the other negatives weren't factors.

 

Hi Poplock,
I just installed a pair of Diamond Audio S600s components in my sedan this weekend. Not sure how different the coupe and sedan are, but I just mounted the tweeter in the stock tweeter location and it sounds great (to me anyways). It was a tight fit, but I was able to get it in. I had to take the tweeters out of their mounting pod thingies to get them to fit though. I reused the brackets and screws that held the stock Bose tweeters in place and it seems very stable.


As for the humongous crossovers, I siliconed them to the inside door panels -- not to the metal part of the door, but to the plastic part (right behind the door pockets). I got the idea from someone who installed their MB Quart crossovers in the same location.... Not sure how stable mine's going to be in the long run since that surface isn't completely flat and it was kind of hard to get a really good bond, but it seems to work for now. I may take them out of the door panels and install them somewhere more stable like mounting to the back seat and running wires to them (which seems like it'd be a pain to do). (If I do, I think I might hook up my rears to the crossovers and use their "rear acoustic fills" connection). Anyways, when mounting, I'd suggest using a good amount of silicone to help fill in any unevenness and let it dry for a while (like 2 hours) before putting the door panels back on.

By the way, the new speakers sound amazing! I just ordered a 4080 sub box and will install an amp to run the front speakers and a sub (yet to decide on amp and sub).

Sorry that I didn't have pics...I hope my explanations make sense.

Good luck with it,
Thomas

 

For the coupe, the best place I found is marked with a pink dot in the attached picture (I did not take this picture, I found it on the net - I did add the pink mark). If you hold up the door trim to the door, you will notice that this area give you plenty of room to work with, about 3-4 inches in depth and at 5-6 in length.

I stuck 1/4 inch thick double-sided foam tape to the back of the crossover and used a bead of silicone aquarium sealant around the edges to make sure that it wouldn't vibrate against the metal.

 

Thanks guys--excellent information. I'm out the door to home depot. Got to take advantage of this vacation time!

 

^ I have the DA Hex S600s also I mounted everything the same exact way you did, the only thing Im afraid of is like you said having the crossovers come loose and falling. I'll find out over time, I'm on a 2 months and no problems yet

 

I just cable tied the crossovers to existing wiring after wrapping them in thin foam (used for packing motherboards etc). They are so light and there are plenty of thick cable bundles to secure them to. The foam surrounding them keeps them from rattling (firmly kept in place between plastic and metal).

 

rc....check these things out..the crossovers are huge! Nearly as big as the speakers...that's where the issue comes in. The kenwoods and most other companies crossovers are much smaller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

 

I have seen ppl use double side tape and mount it right behind the door armrest, since your xover is so hugh and probably are heave too, you probably should screw them down to the door itself cus it will come loss over time specialy on the drive side(open and close more offten)...thats where I put mine at.