Oh, and on a side note, both the length of the speaker wire matters (resistance of wires is a function of length, the longer the length, the higher the resistance), and of the power running though them. More power, and/or more resistance means greater heat in the wires, and more current lost, which means more degraded signal and less performance from your speakers.

 

One of these days I'm giong to do a little experiment to test this speaker wire thing. Get about 15-20ft of something like 22-20 gauge speaker wire hooked up to a massive amp going to a massive sub... If the wire fries or even gets hot then we know the 20 gauge isn't cutting it step up to something like 16 and see what happens...

(All assuming the amp and/or sub don't fry in the process.)

 

wow i didnt noticed how old this thread was, but it was of great help to me this weekend...i jsut finished sound deadening my car and i just love it...thanks for everyone's input into making such a useful thread...in case anyone was wondering, i used a little less than 32 sq ft. of dynamat extreme...(got the custom bulk pack that comes with 36 sq ft.)

only thing is that i can hear how bad my stock sound system is...
i have a busted head unit...the one that causes the left side speakers to crap out...i think thats a common problem no??

 

glad the info helped nosey!

 

What areas do you guys feel are the most important to add sound deadening material to, in order to get the best results?

Also, I know this is off the topic, but I've got a rattle coming from the passenger side speaker cover. Any ideas of how to get rid of this? Might as well try to fix this too if everything will be coming off.

Thanks.

 

Most people would say trunk and door, and also filling the cavity behind the doors on a coupe make the most difference

 

^^+1

 

gotta love this thread....bump it up =)

 

Very nicely done! Thanks for the great writeup. It's folks like you that make g35driver.com a great resource for everyone. I'll be subscribing to this one for future reference.

 

and over a year later...

started my deadening project this weekend. 4 hours later on my sunday drivers door done. Lot more work than I planned.

Using a roll of raammat and the ensolite closed cell foam they offer with it.

My feedback:

Do not use packing tape to hold the window up. It does come out with the removal of 3 bolts and will not fall when they are removed. Use packing tape and all you will succeed in accomplishing is a trip to the store to buy goo gone to get the adhesive residue off the outside lower rubber weatherstrip. Bad idea.

The 3 window bolts have huge range for adjustment. Mark the washer location before removing or spend an hour of trial and error getting the glass back into position for an even seal when up.

Pray nothing ever happens to the window motor. Once you apply the mat to the inner door skin getting back in there will be a very difficult, very messy endeavor.

Eat red meat the night before. There will be blood loss. keep rags handy.

 

I just added 18" coupe 7 spokes w/Dunlop Direzza's in 245 45 to my sedan. The road noise has increased with this set-up from my stock 17" setup. I remember reading this thread a while back about sound deadening. I will be adding B-Quiet Ultimate to the trunk and back seat area to help reduce the road noise.

Great thread!

 

If you want to reduce road noise the best possible place to reduce it since you got new wheels is the sources... one being the actual floor of the vehicle OR an even better first start, the wheel wells and fender. I use products from Second Skin and in my Accord it DRAMATICALLY made a difference. It seemed like i went from an Accord to a luxury vehicle.

What I did was remove the wheels and set them aside. I then got a large sheet and put it under the area I was to work on so it doesn't get on the floor. I covered the brakes with a terry cloth towel to keep anything from dripping on it. This next part was tough and I didn't do a thorough job because it would have taken a long time. My car was an '01, so you can imagine how much dirt and gunk was on the wheel wells, but you must clean it up as best as you can. After drying, I painted 3 layers of Spectrum (liquid deadener) on the wheel wells and the fenders. Afterwards, I added a layer of Sludge (thickening agent for Spectrum to make it intensely thick).

It doesn't cost much to do and it helps a lot. A gallon of spectrum with the sludge will come out to $60 plus shipping. It doesn't take too long to do and it is MUCH easier than doing the doors and you won't have to worry about cutting up your hands or anything. I'd say each wheel took maybe 30 minutes to do per layer, but as mentioned I would stick to doing the sludge and doing 2 layers, 3 if possible. If you have a friend to help you out, even better, I had my cousin help me out and it cut down time obviously. We worked on the front wheel wells and when finished moved to the rear, and by that time the front was nearly dry after taking a break. You have to make sure that it does dry though and take into account the weather conditions, it will take longer with cooler weather for the deadener to dry.

If I had to go back and redo it I would just use the spectrum, because it's the same product, only less work since it goes on much thicker. You can use a putty knife, but I put a glove on my hand and spread it with my hand.

Sorry for the long post, but if you took the time to read it and do what I did, you will be satisfied with the results, here are some pictures of when I did the Accord.

First look with wheel off.







Cleaned up a little, hard to tell difference by pictures, but a lot of dirt came off. Again, I would have done more had I wanted to take the time.



After 3 layers of spectrum (hadn't applied sludge yet)





With a layer of sludge



EDIT: Remember to also do the fender, I'd recommend 2 - 3 layers of Sludge there.

Forgot to add the link to Second Skin. It is www.secondskinaudio.com. The owner, Anthony, is very helpful. When you call the number it will go directly to him.

 

Wow, that is alot of good info!

This makes alot of sense to attack the problem at the source (the wheel wells).

Thanks!

 

Good info here. Donpisto thanks for the pix. I'm definitely going to try that when I have time. I also used to drive a 2000 Accord. Can't wait to sound deaden my G =)

 

No prob guys, glad I could be of help. I ultimately wanted to do the firewall, both from the cabin and engine side but it requires lots of pieces to be taken out, like the engine. I did my hood and it's amazing how quiet it was when a hose was sprayed on it after it was deadened. The floor would be another place to deaden to reduce road noise and even in the cabin where the wheels are there, but I think doing the wheel wells is a great starting point.

On a side note, I miss my 6th gen, wish I still had it

I forgot to list Second Skin's webpage, so I edited my original post and put the link at the very bottom of it.