Hi all, I've been doing research and searching the board on what to get for my G coupe in terms of audio components, but with so many people advocating so many different brands and models of stuff, I'm still kinda lost. I figured I'd put my needs out there and let you guys give me some advice if you don't mind.

Basically, I'm trying to improve the sound quality to acceptable levels without spending alot of money. I'm not an audiophile, but I'm not happy with the stock non-bose system. I have an MTX 4202 amp (2ch, can bridge for sub - specs below) that I'd like to use in this system if possible, in order to reduce costs. I would like to keep the stock HU until I can save up for an eclipse or something with a screen. I want to keep the price below $1000, and bonus points for even less money. I will probably do the install myself, but I won't be going into dynamatting right now. My thoughts are:

replace front door speakers
4080 sub box
new amp for speakers
use MTX amp for sub
10" sub

I see JL and Infinity audio stuff are popular on this board, but considering costs, what would you guys consider best buys? Thanks guys!

Thunder4202
RMS Power measured at 12.5 Volts DC:
50 Watts x 2 into a 4 Ohm load with less than 1% THD
100 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load with less than 1% THD
200 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load with less than 1% THD
Dynamic Power measured at 14.4 Volts DC:
85 Watts x 2 into a 4 Ohm load
140 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load
280 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load
Signal to Noise Ratio: 100dB A-Weighted
(Referenced to Rated PWR at 1VRMS Input Sensitivity)
Damping Factor: >200
Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz ±.25dB
Defeatable18 dB/octave crossover at 85 Hz, selectable for high pass,
low pass.
Dimensions: 7" x 9.75" x 2" (17.8cm x 24.8cm x 5.1cm)
9.3" x 9.75" x 2.1" (23.6cm x 24.8cm x 5.3cm) Including IsoFeet™

 

if you were keeping the stock Bose amp and just dropping new speakers in the doors, i see alot of people on the boards going with the Infinity Kappas b/c they're a 2ohm speaker like the stock ones

if you're replacing the amp as well, the options are almost limitless. best thing to do is find a higher end audio place that you can hear them at. i currently have a set of cheap Polk Audio db6500 comps, but i'm probably going to upgrade to a set of DLS UP6 for my comps... i've heard good things on here about them, so i figured i'd give them a shot

for the sub, you will be very happy with the 4080 box. i have personally always used JL subs, and they have never done me wrong, so i don't think i'm going to switch anytime soon. since your amp puts out around 200watts, i would suggest a JL 10w3v2, which can handle up to 300watts. i had a pair of these woofers in my trunk and liked them alot (i recently switched to a JL 10w6v2 single and a new box, to conserve space and weight)....


as an alternative, you could use your current amp to power a set of 2ohm components in your front doors with 100watts, and then go with something like a JL 10w6v2 and JL 500/1 amp (a 400w sub and a 500w amp) with the 4080 box. either way you should be under $1000 if you do the work yourself.

 

God, i love that enclosure and set up SI_G35coupe, I'm almost regretting I turned down the 06 Laser Red I was originally looking for, for the 05 silver I ended up with. I was actually just kinda scared of attracting too much attention.

Thanks for the suggestions. If anyone else have any ideas, feel free chime in! I hope to have my decisions made in a month or two, when my tax refunds come back....

 

BTW, this probably sounds like a newbie question, but what is "comps" short for?

 

Components

 

computers?

 

sorry, comps = components, as in component speakers (separate tweeter and woofer), like the stock front door speakers

(comps being opposed to coaxials, which is 1 speaker with a tweeter mounted on the middle of the woofer part)

glad you like my old box... it was built by former forum member xlacross, then he sold it to me, and now i sold it to a fellow member. it should be re-appearing in a few months on the boards, perhaps even in a different color

 

compounded?

 

If Infinity is too much for you...

Ask geeman about his DLS UP6/DLS MW110/DLS Reference three-channel setup.

 

Awesome. No comparison to stock. I don't know about Infinity comps but the DLS setup I have is sonic heaven. I had a loaner last week and I could barely listen to the Bose system. It actually was painful to experience. Do something...anything! Just ditch the Bose!

P.S. el_duderino you owe me a phone call!

 

DLS doesn't seem as common in the states, but the prices look pretty good. I'll do some more looking at reviews, thank you....

 

So then if I buy a component system, I'd put the tweeters up where the stock ones are right (next to the side view mirrors), and the woofers would go in the door? But those woofers are for midrange, while the sub handles the lows, right?

I know I sound like a noob, well because I am, but as long as I have the components and a schematic, I know I can do the wiring.....

 

Would this mean I would have three amps in the car? (the stock driving the tweeters and rear speakers, MTX driving the front doors, and 500/1 driving the sub?)

 

God I hope not.

I would use a 3 or 4 channel amp and run the front half to the front midwoofer and tweeter and the back end to the sub.

What would i do for rear speakers?

What rear speakers?

I'd jettison them...

 

Thanks El_duderino. BTW, I have the non-bose HU, and I've been reading that the stock speakers for that system are 4 ohm. Would the Infiniti Kappa 60.7 comps @2 ohm still be good replacements then?

Here's my train of thought now:

-Replace front tweeter and woofer with Infiniti Kappa 60.7's.
-Leave rear speakers as is or disconnect them.
-Tap into rear speakers to the speaker level inputs of the MTX amp.
-Bridge the amp and power a JL 10w3v2 in a 4080 box.

$150 (kappas)
$300 (4080)
$150 (JL sub)
$20 (speaker spacers) for a total of around $620 (not including wires). Is there anything else I'm not accounting for that I will need? (I'm not sure I need a LOC yet, since some posters have said that there is no external amp for the non-bose systems)