Endless Vita Nuova
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,819
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From: CA
G35 6MT
Endless Vita Nuova
so i get my pads today (finally 
) from performance nissan (mynismo.com). well, it wasn't packed very well, and the boxes looked pretty beat-up. the part number for the front pads is pretty much worn off the box, so i can't verify it. at least it's there for the rear.
in looking at them though, they look small for the brembo rotors. i checked the part numbers from endless, and they're right (just too bad i can't check the part number on the damn box )
anyway, in case anybody didn't know yet, they DO NOT come with shims (i hope that the wear sensor can be transferred). hell, i even asked a "rep" at performance nissan, and he says that i don't need it, and that the fronts don't have it. hopefully all goes well this weekend
) from performance nissan (mynismo.com). well, it wasn't packed very well, and the boxes looked pretty beat-up. the part number for the front pads is pretty much worn off the box, so i can't verify it. at least it's there for the rear. in looking at them though, they look small for the brembo rotors. i checked the part numbers from endless, and they're right (just too bad i can't check the part number on the damn box
)anyway, in case anybody didn't know yet, they DO NOT come with shims (i hope that the wear sensor can be transferred). hell, i even asked a "rep" at performance nissan, and he says that i don't need it, and that the fronts don't have it. hopefully all goes well this weekend
Project MU is the same way, no sensor. Just check your pads visually often. I check mine everytime I do my oil. I don't want a metal sensor scraping the hell out of my rotors when my pads are almost done anyway.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,819
Likes: 1
From: CA
G35 6MT
damn...
i guess a visual check is all you can do. i just hope i don't forget about it
anyway, check out THIS THREAD for some pics of the install.
anyway, check out THIS THREAD for some pics of the install.
Last edited by n1cK; Aug 20, 2006 at 04:31 PM. Reason: typo
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,819
Likes: 1
From: CA
G35 6MT
question...
so i just finished bedding my pads in...which for the vita nuova is stopping 20-30 times for 30mph, steadily increasing brake pedal pressure each time...there was a little squeek and grind at first, but that quickly went away after about the 2-4 time. anyway, the brakes look like it has a good film on it, except for a couple of spots.....
don't mind those dark spots, that's just a reflection from my wheels
it's that silver streak that i'm worried about. is this normal?
don't mind those dark spots, that's just a reflection from my wheels
it's that silver streak that i'm worried about. is this normal?
Oh, did you resurface your rotors before installing the new pads? It looks like you didn't... that might explain the streaks, if they are higher than the other parts of the rotor.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,819
Likes: 1
From: CA
G35 6MT
Originally Posted by GReddySetGO
Oh, did you resurface your rotors before installing the new pads? It looks like you didn't... that might explain the streaks, if they are higher than the other parts of the rotor.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,819
Likes: 1
From: CA
G35 6MT
so far so good....
Originally Posted by GReddySetGO
Cool, I have the same rotors 
I wish I could compare your pads vs. my Project MU B-Force. I was deciding between your pads and mine when I bought my new pads.
I wish I could compare your pads vs. my Project MU B-Force. I was deciding between your pads and mine when I bought my new pads.
by the way, someone did do a comparo between the B-Force and Vita Nuova's.....CLICK ME and ME!!
Originally Posted by Dan_K
How do you like these pads compared to stock?
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,819
Likes: 1
From: CA
G35 6MT
just a quick update...after several months of "spirited" driving, the streak has gone away. there still was no noise, and the dust....is....well.....dusty. the dust isn't as dark as stock, but there's still dust. the fact that i have slotted rotors doesn't help either.
overall, i am happy with the pads. i've still got a lot of "meat" left on 'em, and there is NO noise. pedal feel is great and you get used to the initial bite.
please remember that these are street pads, so i wouldn't recommend taking them to track day. the temperatures would be way out of range for this pad and you will fade quickly.
overall, i am happy with the pads. i've still got a lot of "meat" left on 'em, and there is NO noise. pedal feel is great and you get used to the initial bite.
please remember that these are street pads, so i wouldn't recommend taking them to track day. the temperatures would be way out of range for this pad and you will fade quickly.
Originally Posted by n1cK
[COLOR=navy]so i just finished bedding my pads in...
Rotor Seasoning for Street or Light Track Applications
The first step in preparing the brake system for duty is to “SEASON” the rotors. The most visible effects are that of burning the machine oils from the surface of the iron and establishing a wear pattern between the pad and rotor. The most complex task it performs is that of relieving the internal stresses within the material. If you’ve ever poured water into a glass of ice, and noticed the ice cracking, then you’ve witnessed, first hand, the effects of internal stresses. The rotor casting and cooling processes leave the rotor with internal stresses.
By gradually heating the material, the crystalline matrix will reconfigure to relieve these internal stresses. After these stresses are relieved, the rotor is ready to accept the heat of bedding pads. Heating the rotors before they are fully seasoned can result in material deformation due to the unrelieved internal stresses in the material. This deformation may cause a vibration from the brakes. In order to prevent this vibration, all PRO-RACE+ rotors are trued before shipping.
Rotors need to be gradually elevated to “race” temperatures before any severe use. A “nibble”, or slight vibration, normally indicates rotors that were heated too quickly. After initial “Seasoning”, when running your car at open track events or serious canyon carving, you should use the first lap of a session (or first couple miles of open road), to warm the brakes as well as the engine, gearbox, etc. Where an engine turns chemical energy into motion, the brakes turn that motion into thermal energy.... and lots of it! And where there is no cooling system for the brakes as there is for the engine, and there’s not,
the brakes could use the courtesy of a warm-up lap.
Remember to ALWAYS WARM THE BRAKES before any heavy use!
Seasoning Procedure:
Before you begin, please note: The following represents the minimum recommended, “Seasoning” process. If your situation offers any opportunity to perform gentle preliminary “Seasoning” outlined in Step 2 below for a longer period of time, this will
generally render even better performance and increase further long-term rotor life. Use the vehicle for 5 to 6 days of gentle driving. Use the brakes to the same extent that you used the stock brakes, DO NOT TEST PERFORMANCE or ATTEMPT HEAVY USE UNTIL ALL ITEMS OUTLINED HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. It is imperative that excessive heat is not put into the rotors at this stage. They need temperature-cycling to relieve the internal stresses.
Note: Zinc plated rotors (which are an extra cost option) need a couple of extra days of driving to wear through the plating before “Seasoning” actually will begin. Find a safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Your goal is to gradually increase brake temperatures with progressively faster stops. Start by performing four 60 to 70 mph stops, as you would in the normal course of driving.
Next, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
Park the car and allow the brakes to cool overnight to ambient temperature. You are now 50 % done with the rotor “Seasoning/Bedding” procedure proceed to STEP 4 the following day.
Return to the safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Make sure the brakes are warmed to full operating temperature and then, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with
five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING
to allow the rotors to cool.
NOW, make six HARD partial stops from 60+ mph down to 15 mph or until rotors have reached an operation temperature of between 900 and 1,100° (Note: Temperature paints to accurately measure rotor temperature may be purchased from Baer Racing). Every effort should be made to perform this procedure without locking a wheel. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.
Let the system cool off over night. The rotors are then ready for the next step in Preparing your Brake System: Bedding Pads.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,819
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From: CA
G35 6MT
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