i got a 2004 g35 coupe..are there any lowering springs out there that i can get where i do NOT need to get a camber kit? i heard the tein s-tech needs a camber kit...true?

 

ummm i think you should search around before posting.

 

his username says it all.... 'LAZY'

OP, you can go with 350Z h-tech's, they offer a mild drop and almost all G coupes can get away with those springs and only an alignment to get back into OEM spec. But then again, some cars are a bit different so it may not work for you, but chances are it probably will.

 

Each 1.0" of body drop increases negative camber by 0.83 degrees [for 26" tires].
Something taught in High School in Trig Class [the method of angles] being " Lazy" is one thing but under educated is another.

 

This is my experience. I got tanabe NF210, hoping that I would not need a camber kit with it since they were supposed to drop the car .6 in the rear, .9 in the front. I went to get an alignment about one month after I got the springs installed at Hiro's in Costa Mesa. (These guys do alignment by hand, they do the suspension on the RSR drift cars, so I do trust that they actually do the alignment! I am highly suspicious that some places do not ) The rear camber was off pretty badly, and could not be put back into spec w/ stock hardware. By the time I was able to get a rear camber/toe kit installed and another alignment done, the damage was pretty much completed. Rear tires were showing cord in the inside after about 7000 miles. I just got new rear tires, and another alignment. Now I find out my shocks are blown! Haha. My luck just never runs out. So I will be getting new shocks, probably D-Specs, and paying for another alignment. I strongly suggest being cautious even when going with a mild drop, as this scenario could possibly happen to anyone.


Warm regards,

Jason

 

i have S-techs w/ no camber no probs yet... granted my tires will wear out about 3k miles faster than other tires but fvck it lol... just flip the tires lol.

 

you dont NEED a camber kit for any suspension regardless of ride height....

here is what I have always said...

Its ok to have more negitive camber... some favor more negitive camber for better cornering... Some tires recommend -3 - -5 camber in the front for maximum performance (they are R compounds)...

If you are worried about tire wear...

If you want to save tire life, get tires that are directional only... once you see tire wear on the inside, take them OFF the rim and flip them and remount them on the oposite side...This will put the INSIDE on the OUTSIDE and you will get twice as much wear...

Must less expensive then a camber kit, you will still have good turn in and less understear then if you put less negitive camber...

 

In theory proper expensive suspensions have a camber gain curve that creates more camber as the body rolls to compensate for the rubber bushing deflection and tires lack of rigid sidewalls. In expensive Macpearson struts don't have a camber gain curve so with these you must create a serious negative camber to compensate for tires.

Lowering or stiffer springs upset the builtin camber curves since the body doesn't roll as much [maybe?] Same with super stiff sway bars, less roll less camber gain.

Research camber vs caster gain curve which occur when turning wheels.

http://www.performancetrends.com/pro...%20v20_w98.exe

 

Camber doesn't kill tires quite as fast as toe.

Changes in ride height affect camber.
Camber affects caster and toe in that particular order.
The adjusting order goes camber -> caster-> toe.
If you do not have adjustable camber arms, you can just adjust toe and be completely fine. Granted you will be running lots of camber. At least your tires won't get chewed up from going in a straight line from out of spec toe.

 

get the 350z h-techs...shouldnt have to get camber kit for those as u will get close to spec

 

Spec is NOMINAL [NORMAL].
The wide in range is to avoid warranty claims nothing more.

 

+1, no one seems to realize this

 

Most street tires are designed and tested with no more than -0.5 degrees of camber*. Most precision suspension have a builtin camber curve which ADDS negative camber when the body rolls[compresses] to attempt to maintain this -0.5 camber.
Lowering throws the whole design out the window, even with camber/toe kits [which are sold to unsuspecting /uneducated] to make them feel good by returning the alignment numbers to the normal range............unfortunately the use of these kits doesn't solve the lowering problem it just fakes up the alignment so it looks good.

*Tires are tested on a rolling road with ZERO camber for longevity and durability, when you add negative static camber these test are no longer valid.............as proved by the excess wear rates [which are the result of overheating and hot spots on the inner edge of tire and not the differential [angular] forces from being slightly tilted].

Alignment is just static [sitting still] and has little relationship [after camber/toe kits] with what happening at 60 mph or in turns on the road.

The factory measures the REAL rolling ALIGNMENT under turning and at speed and reverse engineers the STATIC numbers to fix problems...........with lowering and kits this relationship goes out the window!

Nominal Static numbers are only truely valid in an UNLOWERED vehicle!

 

I am attempting to order the S-Tune suspension kit from japanparts.com that is specifically made for the G35 coupe. I am thinking Nismo knows what drop is appropriate for my car. I am not really interested in the drop anyway, I am interested in the stiffer better handling suspension.

 

So are you saying that it's best NOT to correct neg camber created by lowering or not to lower your car?