I just installed my wilwood brakes on my sedan. It took my friend and i about 5 hours. On the way home a knockin noise started to come from the right front when the brake is apply. The harder i apply the brake the louder it got. Just took my car out agian and still doing it. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

Corey, I didn't install mine and am not familiar with that sound so I have no idea what it could be. Did you break in the pads? Hopefully someone with experience with this can point you in the right direction.

 

How did you break in your pads?

 

My installer did it for me, but there should be instructions on how to do it that came with your brakes.

See page 6: http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds547.pdf

 

Can you be more specific about the noise. Is it all the time or only when your brakes are hot? My wilwoods were noisy at first. I could hear the slots running on the pads. But this goes away.

Also, wilwoods are noisy by nature. You better start getting used to brake squeal. To minimize this you should spray your calipers with a hose routinely to get the dust build up cleared.

With that said, I love my BBK. The stopping is powerful and most importantly confidence inspiring. I trail brake more than ever now. With practice you can learn to pivot your G through corners using the brake pedal.

Remember, proper brake pad bedding is absolutely critical!

I discovered this a couple weeks ago with my wilwoods. After taking them off to clean and paint the non-contact areas of the rotor (wilwood rotors have no rust protection from the factory) I did not realize that I had removed the bedding layer from the rotor.

The next day I went on a club cruise and after making a 110 mph to 55 mph deceleration (cops in the area) I experienced sever heat judder. This had never happened before.

I suggest you google "heat judder" for more info.

FYI--This is from the Wilwood site: http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html

Pad and Rotor Bedding:

Bedding is a "real conditions" heat cycle and the final step in preparing the pads and rotors for service. All pads, even OE stock replacement parts, will benefit from a proper bedding cycle. All rotors, especially cast iron rotors that will be operated at sustained high temperatures, will provide longer service life and smoother braking when properly bedded. Bedding can be done either in the vehicle, or on a special bedding dyno that can realistically duplicate the torque loads, pressure, and temperature that will be realized in the vehicle.

Rotor Bedding:

Rotor bedding is an essential element to high level performance and durability. It is most critical with cast iron rotors. Cast iron is extremely well suited to use as a brake rotor, but it can be susceptible to thermal stress, distortion, and even cracking if subjected to rapid changes in temperature when it's new. The cracking sound that you may hear when pouring a favorite beverage over a glass of ice is thermal shock. A proper bedding cycle will gradually bring the rotors up to temperature and then allow them to cool slowly and completely in order to "season" and relieve any remaining stresses from the casting and machining processes. With some compounds, a layer of pad material may also be embedded onto the rotor face. It is important that this "transfer layer" be deposited slowly and smoothly. Otherwise, pedal pulsing and compromised friction values can result.

Pad Bedding:

The bedding process is the final "heat cure" for the pads. This final bedding cure differs from an oven heat cure in such that the oven heat cure does not include the pressure, torque, and elevated surface temperatures that are necessary to properly condition the pad for service. As it is with the rotors, new pads must be gradually brought up to temperature and then slowly cooled. If the pads are put into hard service right from the start, damage from fractures or accelerated deterioration due to extreme temperature variations between the surface and the body of the pad can occur. Overall poor performance with the potential for rotor damage are often the results.

Bedding Steps:

Once the brake system has been tested and determined safe to operate the vehicle, follow these steps for bedding of all pad materials and rotors.

1. Begin with a series of 8-10 light stops from approximately 30 MPH down to 15 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds for cooling between each stop.

2. Progress to series of 8-10 moderate stops from around 45 MPH down to 30 MPH allowing the 20-30 second cool down period between each stop.

3. Proceed with a series of 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds of cool down time between each stop.

4. Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.

Notes:

During the bedding process, a more positive feel from the brakes should develop. This is an indication that the bed in process is working. If any level of brake fade is observed during the hard stops, it may be an indication that the brakes have been more than adequately heated. Begin cooling the brakes with light driving and without brake contact immediately.
Wilwood Dyno Bedding Service:

Wilwood offers computer controlled dyno bedding on many popular pads and rotors used in high temperature racing applications. Contact a dealer or factory representative for details.

 

When i apply the brake the right side makes this sound as the rotor is going around. the knock slow as the car does.

 

Is there a clip that attaches to the brake pad to pull the pad completely off the rotor while the brakes are not applied? It almost sounds like the pad isn't correctly mounted.

-Sean

 

there is a clip on either side to hold the pad in but thats it.

 

Do you have Dynalight's? Mine do not have a clip. They have a bar running across the top with a bolt and thread to hold the pads in.

It sounds like something was not properly torqued down. For a start, check all your lug nuts. The scratching sound is normal in the beginning.