Guys with BC coilovers - need help!!
no, second generation BC coilovers. they use OEM-style rear springs now instead of narrow diameter 'coilover' springs like the fronts. Since they dont have that gold spring base anymore, the springs are longer--just not long enough for sedans.
also, if you go too low, your control arms become inverted, and it jacks your roll center all up. i want a better overall handling car.
also, if you go too low, your control arms become inverted, and it jacks your roll center all up. i want a better overall handling car.
yah i know, i have the same ones.. i have the black spring base as well for my coupe
but i don't know if they make longer springs, something you should have investigated prior to purchase, hope it works out for u somehow
but i don't know if they make longer springs, something you should have investigated prior to purchase, hope it works out for u somehow
ok.. i just bought these coilovers and had them install despite all these negative reviews about the noise. I was naive in thinking that it won't happen to me and unfortunately it did! I have the new coilover so I do used my stock rubber mounting thing for my rear springs. They noise sounds like it comes from both the front and rear passenger side. Anyone have suggestions on how to fix it?
on my rear springs are my adjusters suppose to be on top like this one or in the spring bucket?
To me, it looks like the gold part was specifically made to sit right in the spring cup without the need for the rubber piece. I don't see how the rubber piece will work with the gold piece. I think I even tried it, but I don't remember for sure.
Since installing the coilovers, I installed a thin rubber piece between the cup and the gold piece to try to keep it from clunking, but that didn't change anything.




Since installing the coilovers, I installed a thin rubber piece between the cup and the gold piece to try to keep it from clunking, but that didn't change anything.




yes, the rings are correct and suppose to be on top. Are the springs preloaded?...meaning that when you have your car jacked up and wheel off the ground, make sure there isn't any play, rotating or no wiggle with the rear springs by hand?
Also, your alignment could be out of wack when you change ride heights.
Also, your alignment could be out of wack when you change ride heights.
i just had it aligned.i have my car on jacks now and im removing the spring just removed the rubber cone.now for the bottom of the spring douse it just sit on bare metal in the spring bucket? i had a shop install my coilover and they installed the springs upside down and didnt remove the rubber cone.and i just found this out. after driving a month like that.swaying back and forth. i litterally thought hmm maybe this is what its like riding on racing susspension.ehhh completley wrong lol
The pics you posted are of the old version coilovers, the new version uses the oem rubber boot base that sit in the bottom of the bucket. The springs should not be be sitting on bare metal in the base. The top of your install looks correct.
Are you talking about the rear springs? If so and your using the newer version of the coilovers, the spring should sit only one way, it gets narrower as it goes to the top and mounts on the adjusting sleeve with a plastic type washer. The adjusting plate gets fitted onto the prongs that are located in the upper bucket. The bottom of the spring sits in the oem rubber seat(Item14 FSM) in the bottom of the bucket.
Here are some pics


Here are some pics


im still swaying back and forth just alittle not but for some reason myrear tires are spitting tread all over the rear end of my car.tires are bald now too.any idea on how to fix this? sway bars? or what?
I know you said you just had an alignment, but was that before or after you corrected the spring install. If you lowered the car by removing the rubber cone, your alignment will be off. Try measuring from the ground up to the center of the outside fender using the wheel center cap as a guideline and compare it with the specs in the FSM. Mine is an 04 sedan and oem distance is something like 27 3/4" and I'm at 26 1/2. It ate up the tires and even after the alignment I needed to get a rear camber arms and toe bolts.
I think toe is the more serious adjustment to get into spec values. Negative camber will wear the inside of the tires. If the tops of the tire are leaning inward then you have negative camber. I wouldn't go back to the place that did the install wrong, Go to a different place and ask for the tech sheet after the alignment. They may not be able to get you it into specs but you'll be able to see how far off you are.
I think toe is the more serious adjustment to get into spec values. Negative camber will wear the inside of the tires. If the tops of the tire are leaning inward then you have negative camber. I wouldn't go back to the place that did the install wrong, Go to a different place and ask for the tech sheet after the alignment. They may not be able to get you it into specs but you'll be able to see how far off you are.
Your alignment will be off and probably toe is also. Toe will rip up the tires fast. Take measurements for height of all four corners as stated in previous post and compare the fronts and then the rears to each other. Adjust the height to your liking but make sure the fronts are the same on each side and the same goes for the back. Then get the car re aligned.



