^^^ Clearly you havent read the entire thread...

And befor you say you did... READ it!

 

like i said im not gettin into the whole linear vs progressive debate.
i did read most of the thread but skimmed alot of the progressive vs linear crap since it has nothing to do with the original topic.

i asked pete directly today if the new springs are linear and he said yes, so thats all i care about or used to care about.

i went ot the old setup, with the gold adapter in the bottom of the bucket and now have the old style 12k springs.

the gold adapter allows them to put the same size springs on the front an rear of the car, and they are definitely linear.

 

and BTW... I sent a PM to a post stating sale - requesting pricing... never got a response.

I don’t do the "too many PMs" thing... I've walked out of department stores after leaving arms full of clothes because there was no cashier around... If I have to go beyond reasonable attempts to give someone money - I cease all attempts... Maybe I’m weird, but I don’t beg someone to accept my money.

 

SFLG35 - why would you say in your initial post that my only question was regarding camber... and not until I told you to read the thread did you realize I had other concerns????

Dude, don’t bother responding to my posts... I went a different directing and have my reasons. Leave it at that.

 

who did you send the pm to?
i know pete does not sell to the public you have to go through a reseller.

i agree with you on that part, you should not have to beg for someone to take your money thats for sure.

 

cause i only saw the camber one on the third page here, and not the others. after i went back and reread the linear vs progressive stuff i saw your other ones.

congrats to you for goin another direction, im just trying to clear up the orginal posts questions and not the linear vs progressive off topic stuff.

 

Listen man - I don’t know who Pete is... and I don’t care... here’s another thread:
https://g35driver.com/forums/suspens...ilovers-7.html

Pay special note to Post #s 91 and #100...

you’re not the sharpest knife in the drawer are you?

I suggested that you don’t respond to my posts because I was only giving my take on the matter... why are you pushing me to show the reasoning???? I started with a very mild mention of my dealing and you want to challenge my reasoning????

Read the threads genius! Do you want me to copy/paste the PMs too???

Stop trying to demean my opinion. I will continue to validate it...

 

I have slight knocking too, but it only seems to appear when I back out of my garage. I don't seem to notice it any time else so I haven't done anything about it. I don't know if it is the same noise you have.

I don't think the solution is the thin rubber gasket at the top of the stock shocks because that just seems to be a seal to keep out dust and water. I siliconed arouns the top mounts of my BC coilovers and I have not seen any indications of movement.

I hope you guys can figure it out. Try putting the stock springs and rubber mounts in the spring bucket to completely eliminate the spring setup as the source. Also look at the other end of the shock where it mounts to the suspension.

 

pete is the owner of bc racing.
the reason you prolly didnt get a reponse from blak guy about them was becuase he no longer works for performance factory so he cant get those parts anymore.

im not tryng to demean your reasoning like i said i dont care which way you went. i was just asking you questions so i could maybe help shine somemore light on the matter. i think you might have taken my posts the wrong way. im only trying to help get the info out here. im sorry if you took them the wrong way.

i read plenty of threads, but the linear vs progressive debate is pointless in my opinion, when people have been told several times that the springs are linear.

like i said im glad you went a different way, im just tryin to help teh people here that have bc racing coiovers.

 

^^^ I was a little wound up last night, I apologize for coming across aggressive...

Thanks for your interest in helping - I'm sure others that are interested in this product will benefit.

Good day

 

Hey fellas,

This is something I just posted over on the g37 board.

Hey everyone,

After my last update I was getting everything ready to ship out those items that made way here. I got a call from a fellow board member with the rattle/knock noise. He's not to far away and we arranged to bring him in on friday late afternoon. I appreciate Dan for coming down to have a ride around and see if we can't finally take care of this. On the first drive out, it was noticeable on low speeds as he said. I tore down the back, checked the shocks, preloads and spring assembly. After 3 attempts and it getting a bit late, we decided we'd work on getting the car back here. I just made contact with Dan today and we are providing him with a rental and we'll have a week with his car to look over and trouble shoot it.

Some of the things we did:

Preload did not make a change

Changed to the older style design, no change.

Changed spring rate.

Took the upper ***** off just incase the extenders were making them pop

Dissassembled the rear shock and tested for any problems, nothing found

Checked the pillowball casing for any signs of it hitting. Found no signs

I did take the top plate off and checked the upper mounting position and found that the bolts are a bit smaller than the ones on our plates. The slop could allow for some play. I thought maybe this could cause the noise shifting. So I looked around the shop and found a perfect spacer. After finishing up, we thought this would have fixed it. It seems to have helped, but the sound is still there. To make sure we are all on the same field here. Dan's noise is generating up high, which leads me to believe it has to do with the top mount. Atleast this is where I will start concentrating trouble shooting first. One thing I want to verify is the 2 upper bolts for the rear top mount of the shock. This is just a thought, most of you having this issue was not immediately. Atleast that's what I've understood. What if using too much preload, or even a combination of preload, extra weight of larger wheels and tires are pulling down on those 2 studs and causing a uneven contact patch for the top plates. Minimal enough to cause it to seesaw and cause a rattle. Strut towers are known to mushroom on certain vehicles, so it is possible but needed to be verified. If any of you that have this rattle issue have a chance, take a look or shoot a pic of how the rear top plate is sitting on the car. I know Dan's had a slight gap.

Well, we'll have the car on thursday evening. So we'll keep everyone updated to the progress. Let me know if there is any questions I can help with.

 

After talking with Daniel on the phone, he and I have completely different noises. I only hear a slight noise when backing out of the garage and down the driveway. I do not hear it on the road. It's not enough for me to bother with though.

 

Sean,

Take a look at the rear upper mount and make sure it is on tight. It may be shifting on you.

 

Was this rattling ever resolved? I have it and have gone through preloading and making sure everything is tight. I'm thinking of swapping sides to see if it moves the rattling to the driver's side.

 

good idea.
can you describe your rattling?
does it sound like its coming from up high or down low?
where are your extensions located