Compression rod / Lower control arm ... little confused HELP

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  #61  
Old 01-10-2011, 11:15 PM
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is it worth it to just get the bushing and have them pressed in or i mean you can go to oreily's and get a entire new lower control arm for $100.99 each.. and those have "Limited Lifetime Warranty"
Link for left one
Link for right one
Oh and also if i were to buy the bushings and i need to do both sides of the car, do i need two sets? or will 1 pack do me good? thanks. lots of good info
 
  #62  
Old 01-10-2011, 11:31 PM
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Get new one.

Sell the old set to someone whos want to press in new solid bushings and new.

The new owner sells his old one to somebody, and the cycle goes on. Less down time for everybody.
 
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by OCG35
54560-RRZ30 is the correct part number.

http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=5348
So I get this correct this part number will also work with AWD.
An only necessary for one and alignment at owners discression.
 
  #64  
Old 03-31-2011, 10:37 PM
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I just bought the WHITELINE front bushing kit (Shock to Control Arm Outer and Lower Control Arm Inner). Any shops in Miami/Ft Lauderdale that I can take my G.?
 
  #65  
Old 05-01-2015, 06:10 PM
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can someone post pics and procedure for removing lower control arm. I havent seen directions anywhere. thanks
 
  #66  
Old 05-01-2015, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by yassy
can someone post pics and procedure for removing lower control arm. I havent seen directions anywhere. thanks
Its pretty simple with the right tools.
 
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  #67  
Old 05-01-2015, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by yassy
can someone post pics and procedure for removing lower control arm. I havent seen directions anywhere. thanks
No picture needed.

Unbolt sway bar end link (remove from LCA), remove shock mount retaining bolt, unbolt from steering knuckle ball joint then unbolt from chassis. In that order.

Replacement is easiest if you replace ball joint position and shock mount position first, then use a thin chisel or a very strong screwdriver to insert thru the chassis and bushing to line up the bushing with the hole in the chassis. That way the bolt will go thru. Rebolt at chassis position, then of course tighten sway end link.
 
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  #68  
Old 05-02-2015, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
No picture needed.

Unbolt sway bar end link (remove from LCA), remove shock mount retaining bolt, unbolt from steering knuckle ball joint then unbolt from chassis. In that order.

Replacement is easiest if you replace ball joint position and shock mount position first, then use a thin chisel or a very strong screwdriver to insert thru the chassis and bushing to line up the bushing with the hole in the chassis. That way the bolt will go thru. Rebolt at chassis position, then of course tighten sway end link.
thank you guys.
i looked underneath, how did you get to bolt on chassis. looks hard to get to.


also where is best place to get new one? Saw one on ebay for 219. thanks
 

Last edited by yassy; 05-02-2015 at 11:38 AM.
  #69  
Old 05-02-2015, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by yassy
thank you guys.
i looked underneath, how did you get to bolt on chassis. looks hard to get to.
Yeah, it really helps to have air. Otherwise, I'd just jack it up and try to get a breaker bar under there. Helps to have a helper too the first time.

Also helps to have a gooseneck wrench to hold the bolt on the backside.
 
  #70  
Old 05-02-2015, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
Yeah, it really helps to have air. Otherwise, I'd just jack it up and try to get a breaker bar under there. Helps to have a helper too the first time.

Also helps to have a gooseneck wrench to hold the bolt on the backside.
i have an air impact driver.
I may just have dealer do it, quoted me $440
 
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