If you ever go true coilovers rear, please post your comparison of max damper w/OEM setup vs. true coil rear...
Hopefully I'll be picking up a set of these by the end of May.

Please and thanks.

 

where did you order from???

 

I actually did the true coilover setup, the spring mounts have been removed. Will have my shocks/springs on sale soon.

Unfortunately, I set it up from the start so I don't know if it made any difference oem vs true..I think someone said that without the true coilover setup, the ride was not great. Also, in order to adjust the dampening and height, the entire rear has to be taking down, just a food for thought..

Initially, the rears dampening was set at half way and it was too soft, alot of rebound..now, the rears have been set to the maximum dampening and I believe the fronts as well. Before the alignment, the front was so bad, at one point, it bottom out but after the alignment, the fronts are much stiffer. I have rear camber kit but no front.

The ride is a cross between, comfort and aggressive. I have not fully tested cornering but definetly tested the shocks and I felt everything but did not think it was too bouncy. It feels less aggressive (then again, I have not fully tested yet) than my tokico blues/tein s-tech but comfort has improved.

 

What do you mean that the entire rear has to be taken down for adjustments? I've only had springs so I have no idea what needs to be taken down.

 

I don't know if its different true vs oem but for true, you have to take the shocks out to adjust the dampening and height, its about a 45 min job, if you know what you are doing.

Where as the front, you can adjust the dampening from the engine bay and I believe you have to take out the tire to adjust the height.

 

That seems like a good bit of work...is that 45 mins. for one side? I plan to go play at autox events every now and then...this seems like a pain haha. So if I stay with OEM set up you think I could adjust the dampening and height without taking the rears out?

 

Can't adjust them without taking them out. I think there is a mod you can do that will allow you to but the thread is on my350z. I would say 45 minutes is for both sides because I took them out the other day to fix a rattling problem.

 

I just installed some MDU. The car is really bouncy in the rear... not bouncy as in smooth lincoln town car bounce.. but bouncy like a go kart bounce! It harsh and it hurts my back.. I dont know what is causing it bc it wasnt like that when it was first installed and lowered.. but since the car was too low for my taste, I raised it up from the shocks and left the damper (12clicks out of 18clicks) and preload on the springs all the same as it was when I initially installed it on the car and lowered. Didnt mess with it when I had it first installed. But since I raised it, the car rides all stiff and harsh..

What should I do? Mess with the preload or the damper?

 

Would you guys give some input on how to set the preload and the height of the spring and full coilover length. And what level of adjustment are you guys set up on

 

If you are asking about how to adjust the height for front and back this how you want to do it.

The fronts, you are only able to adjust height from the shock body.

The rears, as you lower increase the preload, it will raise the car and if you decrease the preload, it will lower the car. from there depending on your height you should adjust the shock to the ride height. So if you lower the car more than stock. You wanna make that shock for the rears a bit shorter than the stock shock (depending on the drop). The preload is what determines height in the rear.

Hope this helps.

Im full stiff in the front and about 15 clicks out of 18 clicks in the rear. My drop on my OEM 19'' is 26" from fender to ground in the rear and 25'' from fender to ground in the front.

 

The fronts, I lowered the spring and nuts 1 in from the top and am adjusting the preload to accommodate the ride height from there. It would be great if some one posted a pic of how there's looks installed with tape measure measurements. Mine are still to bouncy in the front.

 

thread is lil old but mayb someone can help out ..... which way is stiff?? right for stiff?? or left for stiff??

 

Right turn is stiff. Clockwise.

 

Go lower!

 

Did anyone ever try to swap out the springs since its 10k front and 7k rear?

This might help the boucy ness. By putting the 10k in the rear and 7k in the front.