Alot of the fittings that came with the set were plastic. I wanted metal ones since the tank will be open in my trunk and since my car is show car, i need it to look clean. Thats about average for a 440c (444c) compressor and 3 gallon assuming the tank it raw. I will be uisng mine frequently as I need to get in and out of driveways on a daily basis. I ended up getting a 5 gallon polished tank fom another site and for dual 400c polished compressors. Again this is for my daily needs as well as show bling. I am not all that exp with this stuff but just reading through here and doing a lil research such as yourself did help. Ill let the masters chime in with the coil/strut feedback

 

Just read through all 28 pages I had a question.


I already have coilovers installed on my Z (OEM-Style Apexis) is it possible to just replace the spring with the same style bag that slips over the front coilover (strut)?

Or is there a benefit and reason why you'd replace them with the other style bag and "cup"?

Another reason for that question is that I have on order the SPL rear mid-link for toe adjustment
(http://www.splparts.com/chassis-Z33.html#SPLRMLZ33) I would hate for those to be wasted!

 

Lots of great information, thanks. However I'm leaving the dark side. I bought CDN G35's car last November with all four corners bagged and a nine button control monitoring system. I need the trunk space more than the system, I rarely use it being the old fart that I am.

2 x ViAir compressors
1/2" lines
5 gal. tank
Dakota digital monitoring system with digital display
UAS bags

Anyways, I'm wondering what you think this setup is worth so I can put it up for a realistic price?

Thanks in advance.

Pic in original FS thread here.
https://g35driver.com/forums/cars-sa...e-goodies.html

 

have any of you had your air valves twords the front of the car instead of the back!!! pics of how you ran your lines would be great!I'm debating wheather I should run 2 lines all the way to the back to the valves or put the valves up front and run one line to the back??? any info would be great thanx !!

 

ok guys... i dont know if anyone here has bagged an AWD, but ive been talking to Zack at UAS and hes put a kit together for me. Sways come in today and Bags come in on Wednesday... so need to start asking Questions..... i have a 2004 G35x on BC BR Coilovers and i will be running a UAS Manual kit with 4 paddles and non digital gauges.

1. ive read that it was recommended to run adjustable sway bars on FULL stiff. i have hotchkis sways, so do i do as suggested and run on FULL stiff or could i run on MEDiUM?

2. could the bags stretch out when i have it on a lift? would it effect the PSI in bags after being dropped from the lift?

3. Best procedure to install kit. start with management? explain management.

4. Has any one in here ran UAS bags with UAS kit? how much adjustment would i have from high to low? want to me able to be "dumped" aka tucking.

thanks in advanced!!

 

1. My stillen sways are set to medium and I think the handling is fine.
2. If its one of those lifts where you wheels can hang down freely, then let air out of the bags once its on the lift.
3. I didn't install mine, but UAS did the bags, valves, hoses, and ride height controller arms before the wiring.
4. Adjust the height by moving the spring perch up and down on your coilover shocks. You'll have no problem tucking.

 

thanks bigc! you had bc coils?

 

yeah, I have BC coils on my G with a UAS kit.

 

manual or digital?

how is it?

highly recommended?

hows the ride?

how much was it to get installed?

sorry about the 21 questions.... hahah

 

- dakota digital gauge with the "height" sensors
- i like it a lot - i've been on bags for 2.5 years.
- subjective - depends on why you're getting it
- good. it'll never feel like being static, but with adjustable coilover shocks you can dial things in
- going rate from UAS...call Zack for his pricing.
- no problem, i asked lots and lots of questions to a bunch of folks on here (particularly rookie) before getting the kit

 

AWESOME. thanks a bunch bigc!!! i really appreciate it...

awesome thread.

 

what do would you prefer... running lines under my car or running it inside through my car?

 

I'm from the "Big Rig" side of things...I drive one. The product you're referring to is Methyl Hydrate but it's not as easy an fix as you might think. Truckers use Methyl not to control the brakes but so that the brakes don't freeze solid to the rim when the Trucker stops for a long period of time and applies the parking brakes when it's really cold outside.

You're correct Kenny in that Methyl Hydrate does dry condensation in air lines however all a Trucker has to do to access the air system is simply twist off the Emergency Supply Line(red), pour in some Methyl, reconnect the line then pop the button on and off a few times in the Cab to run the Methyl through the air lines. Doing this two or three times is not uncommon to make sure the lines are condensation free.

This isn't so easy to do on an air system that is completely closed unless you unscrew a fitting and the air lines in your cars are so small that if you start now you might be done by next week...not effective time management.

There is a solution that doesn't include Methyl Hydrate, newer trucks are equipped with Technology that makes Methyl obsolete. Only older trucks that don't have this Tech still use Methyl Hydrate nowadays, read on to find out what you guys really need for your air-ride setups and something you MUST do to prevent problems with your air system.

You already have a water trap in your system but you don't know it...yet. Read on!!!

Ok everyone, this is the root cause of most air brake/air suspension/air ride system problems...

NOT DRAINING THE AIR TANK

You MUST drain the air tank on a regular basis...parked for the night...as the air tank is a water and dirt trap. The water and dirt mix to make a gunk that is forced through the system by the air pressure, this is what's clogging up all your valves as well as your gauges if you're not aware of that.

If you never do this you lose capacity in the amount of air the tank actually holds, air tanks in trucks have been discovered to be almost full of dirt during accident investigations...rare but this is what happens if you never drain the air tanks. Remember, the gauges operate on air pressure and not air volume so the same air pressure is read in a tank almost full of dirt compared to one that is dirt free. You might think your tank is full but when you drain your bags it drains slow from the gunk buildup on the valve seats...replacing valves no good as rebuild with gunk...then WHUMP! Your car drops hard because there's no more air in the tank for the valves to do a controlled release.

Since your tanks are in the trunk if it's not vented to the outside you'll have to attach a hose to the tank and run it out the trunk to drain it. Some might find this bothersome to do or might forget to regularly drain the tank. So what do you do?

Air Drier! This is placed in-line after the compressor and before the air tank, as the name suggests it dries the condensation from air being compressed before it can reach the air tank and liquify. I have no idea if there's a small version suitable for your systems, I'd suggest also researching compressors and see if there is one with a built-in air drier.


This is my two cents worth and some food for thought for you all, cheers.

 

Not sure how other tanks are configured, but the tank UAS sells with their basic kit has a drain at the bottom. Its reasonably easy to access, but yes, laziness sometimes wins out

 

Here is mine, just got done last week. BC coils with bags/brackets from Bagriders.com. Running the Accuair ELevel mngt system with ILevel