ATE to dot3 fluid, destroyed rubber?
#1
ATE to dot3 fluid, destroyed rubber?
Was going back to stock from a big brake kit, had to stop short since the stockers I got wouldn't bolt up (trying to get 1st gen 350z calipers onto a 2nd gen g35 sedan), anyway, long story short, was running ATE blue fluid. Flushed out most of it for off the shelf dot 3 fluid... and had zero brakes afterwards, pedal was pretty much zero resistance to the floor. The one thing I didn't do was disconnect the battery so the ABS reservoir would flush out.
Any ideas on this one? It's actually at a Firestone shop as we speak, they can't make anything of it either, which makes me feel a little better, except next step for them was to change the master cylinder out.
Any ideas here? Mixing fluid could have shot some rubber pieces?
Any ideas on this one? It's actually at a Firestone shop as we speak, they can't make anything of it either, which makes me feel a little better, except next step for them was to change the master cylinder out.
Any ideas here? Mixing fluid could have shot some rubber pieces?
#2
That would be your master cylinder. There have been a bunch of reports of people using the ATE's dark blue DOT4 fluid having issues with (supposedly) the 'blue dye' causing harm to the internal rubber seals of the master cylinder. I'd wait for someone that has the ATE Blue or Gold stuff in their brakes systems or have experience with it before taking what I post to be true. However, from a technical/mechanical view. It looks like your Master Cylinder seals are shot. This will cause no pedal feel or pedal to be just stuck down to the floor.
EDIT:
Just googled for you again, looks like people are having the same issues and the 'official word is that chemical make-up of the ATE Blue and Gold (typ200) doesn't work with the seals on many of the newer cars'. Although I cant find anything official from ATE.
- Eric
EDIT:
Just googled for you again, looks like people are having the same issues and the 'official word is that chemical make-up of the ATE Blue and Gold (typ200) doesn't work with the seals on many of the newer cars'. Although I cant find anything official from ATE.
- Eric
#3
#6
You know what, shop got back to me, every one of the bleeder screws was clogged... this was my first time using a pressure bleeder, usually do the 2-person deal, and in hindsight thought the fluid was pushing out sort of slow... either there was some crud already in there or the pressure knocked some loose! Will see in the morning how much I'm getting charged for this (although it saved me a ton of time, so no complaints).
Appreciate the input!
Appreciate the input!
#7
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#8
#9
yeah these issues are why im hesitant to move on to dot 4.
I know that dot 4 has borate esters vs. glycol esters in dot 3 and has a high bp that dot 3 but still if its going to screw with the brake system when I add dot 3 to top it off then thats a big no no.
And yeah dot 3 isnt that ancient.
IF anything most of the fluid available here at my local walmart is Dot 3.
I know that dot 4 has borate esters vs. glycol esters in dot 3 and has a high bp that dot 3 but still if its going to screw with the brake system when I add dot 3 to top it off then thats a big no no.
And yeah dot 3 isnt that ancient.
IF anything most of the fluid available here at my local walmart is Dot 3.
#10
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Best info about brake fluid. Before anyone asks, do NOT use dot 5. 5.1 is okay but no one here is going to need it.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml
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