Brake woes! HELP!

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Old May 13, 2006 | 05:49 PM
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Brake woes! HELP!

Guys, today I went to upgrade my brakes with HPS pads and had the front rotors resurfaced from Oreileys. Well when I got the rotors back they were a bit ROUGH, not a smooth cut. I installed them, and put the pads on. When I was installing the stuff I noticed the nipple on my front left was seeping brake fluid pass the threads. So I was like damn and it wouldn't tighten anymore. I went down to the store and picked up a replacement. In this time my brake system drained.

I installed the new one, and did the bleeding procedure once. Put wheels back on, no brakes.

Did it again, fired it up and I had brakes. So I decided what the hell and went around again. Used almost all my racing fluid.

Now I put it back together, drove and the car just wasn't stopping really well. I assume its because the front rotors and pads are new and they haven't broken in yet? After the break in procedure per hawk, I let it cool, drove it again, and its stopping better, and whats weird the ABS in the rear is kicking in when I do hard braking but the front isn;t at all. The car also isnt stopping very fast at all. I assume its because the pads/rotors need to break in? I just can't do any panic stops for a while it seems.

Any ideas here?
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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Is your rotor thickness within specs after machining? I would brake hard few times on gravel to make ABS cycle and bleed it again-on all 4 wheels. I just replaced my rear rotors/pads and car brakes perfect(even better than before), so having new pads is not the factor here.
What do you mean by "rough" cut? Rough circumvential grooves? Get low grit sandpaper and roughen rotors up in "center-edge" direction.

Cannot think of anything else. Did leak from nipple stop?
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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Are you sure you bleeded the lines properly? Does it feel spongy even with your racing fluid in it? There could still be air in the line that's why it's taking you longer to brake.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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I had them do a light cut on the rotors. They just feel like sand paper. Rough. And the pads might be having trouble adhering to the surface. No more leaks.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by glennp_1999
Are you sure you bleeded the lines properly? Does it feel spongy even with your racing fluid in it? There could still be air in the line that's why it's taking you longer to brake.

No more spongy pedal, feels normal to me. Just the car isn't stopping. The backs are doing most of the work right now.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
I had them do a light cut on the rotors. They just feel like sand paper. Rough. And the pads might be having trouble adhering to the surface. No more leaks.
It seems that there's not enough friction between front pads and rotors, that makes rear brakes work harder.
Try to sand front rotors to remove trails from machining-as I said "center to edge " direction.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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But the rear brakes shouldn't be grabbing that hard. The rear ABS is not suppose to kick in there is definately something wrong here.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by glennp_1999
But the rear brakes shouldn't be grabbing that hard. The rear ABS is not suppose to kick in there is definately something wrong here.
Actually if the rear brakes are clamping at full force and the rear tires are braking loose the abs will kick in.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by obender66
It seems that there's not enough friction between front pads and rotors, that makes rear brakes work harder.
Try to sand front rotors to remove trails from machining-as I said "center to edge " direction.
I believe you might be right. I will drive some more tonight if it doesn't get better then I will get some sand paper and sand the rotors smoother.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
Actually if the rear brakes are clamping at full force and the rear tires are braking loose the abs will kick in.
That's just it the rear is clamping down to hard when it's not suppose to. Remember 80% of braking is in the front so for the rear clamping down that hard with the front still rolling there is something wrong.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by glennp_1999
That's just it the rear is clamping down to hard when it's not suppose to. Remember 80% of braking is in the front so for the rear clamping down that hard with the front still rolling there is something wrong.


The rear rotors were not resurfaced. So they have a good flat surface for the pads to adhere too. The fronts are still a bit rough so the pads are not adhering well to the surface. I will be driving it tonight to try and make them break in some more.
 
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Old May 14, 2006 | 01:03 PM
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Well, luckily I knew a guy about 2 blocks from my house that was part of SASCA Autox. He looked at the rotors since his roommate use to be a manager at Orelieys. He has done many. He looked and was like omg someone ****ed those up. Well he thinks it was a dull bit. So he called and asked if he could do them if he came down there. So we went back down there again, and the bits were dull and bad. No wonder. He put new ones on, cut them LIGHTLY again (stilll over 12000 of room after the last cut left) and this time they were smooth as glass. Put them back on, and after 3-5 stops the car stops very good again. Not as good as it should but its much better than the 100+ miles I put on the last resurface. Damn Oreileys.

Anyways, now let the Hawks break in now some more and I should have great braking power.
 
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