And now MY carPC install thread!
#61
I have the old version of the screen. The back plate is essentially a rectangular piece of aluminum with a notch cut out where the magnet screws in. I extended the length of the notch so I could move the magnet up a little more.
If the magnet is at the right height, it holds VERY strongly. You need to have the metal plate attached properly to the cubby lid first though. If you stripped the screw, then you need to somehow fix that - plastic repair or superglue the metal thing on - or get a slightly bigger screw? Be gentle with those little screws...
My magnet could also be adjusted by rotating 180 degrees - that helped a lot but not quite enough to be 100% secure, so I did a little "extending" with a dremel.
Blowing a fuse doesn't sound good - I know this doesn't help, but something is likely not wired right!
Hey what are u doing trying to get this done on a week day, anyway...
j/k - good luck getting it all fixed up right quick.
Also, Mike in the CarNetix forum is very helpful. He even set me up with some custom firmware parameters (I wanted to change the deadman timer).
If the magnet is at the right height, it holds VERY strongly. You need to have the metal plate attached properly to the cubby lid first though. If you stripped the screw, then you need to somehow fix that - plastic repair or superglue the metal thing on - or get a slightly bigger screw? Be gentle with those little screws...
My magnet could also be adjusted by rotating 180 degrees - that helped a lot but not quite enough to be 100% secure, so I did a little "extending" with a dremel.
Blowing a fuse doesn't sound good - I know this doesn't help, but something is likely not wired right!
Hey what are u doing trying to get this done on a week day, anyway...
j/k - good luck getting it all fixed up right quick.
Also, Mike in the CarNetix forum is very helpful. He even set me up with some custom firmware parameters (I wanted to change the deadman timer).
Last edited by rcdash; 04-12-2006 at 12:12 AM.
#62
The fuse thing was my mistake. I had the inputs for the P1900 still hooked up and I had the top of the P1900 taken off (but fan still connected). I think I touched the top of the P1900 to one of its capacitors or some component on the board. All I know is I saw a spark and BOOP, fuse dead. When I swapped in another P1900 (and actually had it all put together properly), it works like a champ.
The PC is now in my glovebox successfully powering up and shutting down with the car's turn on & turn off. Screen is working well. Navigation is 100% functional. Tonight I work on straightening up wires and running the wifi antenna cables.
Pictures tonight.
The PC is now in my glovebox successfully powering up and shutting down with the car's turn on & turn off. Screen is working well. Navigation is 100% functional. Tonight I work on straightening up wires and running the wifi antenna cables.
Pictures tonight.
#63
#64
#65
#66
Looooong delay. Mostly because I was so dam* frustrated with my USB hubs that I put the whole thing to the side and said "screw it" for about two months.
What's new:
- bought a 4 port belkin usb 2.0 hub... AC adapter says 5v 2.6A, so this one is hopefully a bit beefier than that stupid 7 port zonets I was using.
- The wifi antennas are run to the back window.
- Clifford G5 Concept 450 alarm installed
And I have figured out a way of getting one up on Caelric's install, but I can't say what it is, because he'll run out and do it himself
What's new:
- bought a 4 port belkin usb 2.0 hub... AC adapter says 5v 2.6A, so this one is hopefully a bit beefier than that stupid 7 port zonets I was using.
- The wifi antennas are run to the back window.
- Clifford G5 Concept 450 alarm installed
And I have figured out a way of getting one up on Caelric's install, but I can't say what it is, because he'll run out and do it himself
#67
#68
The 7 ports are a waste - tried them - not enough power or they are too slow or some d@mn thing like that.
You have to experiment with the 4 port hubs. I now have a CyberPower and a Zonet (1 each) and 1 of those is still giving me trouble but haven't had the time to track it down. Actually lost interest because it works well 95% of the time and a quick reboot fixes it the remaining 5%.
You have to experiment with the 4 port hubs. I now have a CyberPower and a Zonet (1 each) and 1 of those is still giving me trouble but haven't had the time to track it down. Actually lost interest because it works well 95% of the time and a quick reboot fixes it the remaining 5%.
#69
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
USB 2.0 or USB 1.1 hubs?
On my laptop in the car, USB (2.0) ports are always powered. I was also having all kinds of problems and frustrations with USB units after standby or hibernation until one day I connected some funny looking Radio Shack USB 1.1 4-port hub to the laptop and then Zonet 4-port USB 2.0 up front so that all units actually have to pass through USB 1.1 hub. Prior to that I tried ALL USB hubs that I could buy in local stores – like 7 or 8 different kinds, devcon also didn’t help. So unless you need bandwidth try putting some USB1 into chain.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
saskicker32
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
0
08-11-2015 02:12 PM
yassy
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
3
08-09-2015 07:31 PM