Registered User
Quote:





Wash with PB Super Slick
Dry with a waffle weave towel.
I used an old Zaino clay bar I had sitting around
For Polish:
PO203S with a yellow pad on the deep scratch places.
Intensive Polish with an orange pad on the whole car.
PO106FF with a white pad on the whole car.
PO85RD with a black pad on the whole car.
Wipe down the car with Top Inspection Spray
Then for Sealant:
FMJ with a blue pad on the whole car.
Wax tomorrow or Tuesday with a coat or two of Natty's red wax by hand.
My congrats yur car a dream u did excellent job u definitely know wat yur doinOriginally Posted by ttrank
Here's some quick pics:




Wash with PB Super Slick
Dry with a waffle weave towel.
I used an old Zaino clay bar I had sitting around
For Polish:
PO203S with a yellow pad on the deep scratch places.
Intensive Polish with an orange pad on the whole car.
PO106FF with a white pad on the whole car.
PO85RD with a black pad on the whole car.
Wipe down the car with Top Inspection Spray
Then for Sealant:
FMJ with a blue pad on the whole car.
Wax tomorrow or Tuesday with a coat or two of Natty's red wax by hand.
Quote:
What would you recommend as a product that I could keep in my car (I always keep a microfiber or two in the car)so that I could spot clean my car to get rid of bugs, bird crap, and things of that nature shortly after they happen instead of waiting for too long. I was using Meguiars Quik Detailer previously, but ran out (due to claying an extremely dirty car) and was wondering if that product is good for that, or if there is something else I should be using. Thanks very much for your time as always.
Warm regards,
Jason
Jason, good question. I keep a 4oz pump spray bottle of Poorboy's Spray & Wipe in my glove box for these situations. Spray & Wipe is filled with cleaning agents which is ideal for cleaning bird droppings, bug splatter, tar and other forms of contamination. Some detailers use it as a waterless wash, so it's definitely effective at removing contamination. It's offered in gallon sizes if it's a product you end up enjoying, which can save you a bit in the long run. The one thing I should note about this product though is it doesn't have any gloss enhancers or protection, so once you clean the surface you're left with what was protecting your car before you cleaned it.Originally Posted by threatcon07
Hi George,What would you recommend as a product that I could keep in my car (I always keep a microfiber or two in the car)so that I could spot clean my car to get rid of bugs, bird crap, and things of that nature shortly after they happen instead of waiting for too long. I was using Meguiars Quik Detailer previously, but ran out (due to claying an extremely dirty car) and was wondering if that product is good for that, or if there is something else I should be using. Thanks very much for your time as always.
Warm regards,
Jason
Quote:
As long as you have a hook and loop backing plate for it, our pads will work just fine. I have a Makita 9227C and use our Lake Country 6.5" pads each time I detail.Originally Posted by Gr8speed68
Hy george i have a makita buffer will yur buff pads work on it?? What kind of wax do u reccomend ...
For a wax, really depends on what you are looking for and what your budget is. What color vehicle will it be going on? Bang for the buck, Poorboy's Natty's Blue is an excellent option, especially on darker colored vehicles. Some other great options are either of the P21S waxes, very easy to apply and remove, look great on any colored vehicle and they don't stain trim. If you're looking for a higher end wax, consider the Dodo Juice products.
There's certainly lots of other great waxes, I just need to know more about what you're looking for to provide the best suggestion.
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As the others already chimed in with, save your money, not worth it. Teflon needs to be applied around 700 degrees to bond to a surface. In the detailing industry it serves no purpose.Originally Posted by virtualbong
My company is going to have a professional detailing service come by our work to offer discounted pricing for one day. I am looking at the following packages and the best package includes a Teflon sealer application. Is this stuff for real or a waste of money?
George
George.
In the middle of the Dodo double wax application. Will have some pics tomorrow or Sunday.
-Tim
In the middle of the Dodo double wax application. Will have some pics tomorrow or Sunday.

-Tim
Registered User
As long as you have a hook and loop backing plate for it, our pads will work just fine. I have a Makita 9227C and use our Lake Country 6.5" pads each time I detail.
For a wax, really depends on what you are looking for and what your budget is. What color vehicle will it be going on? Bang for the buck, Poorboy's Natty's Blue is an excellent option, especially on darker colored vehicles. Some other great options are either of the P21S waxes, very easy to apply and remove, look great on any colored vehicle and they don't stain trim. If you're looking for a higher end wax, consider the Dodo Juice products.
There's certainly lots of other great waxes, I just need to know more about what you're looking for to provide the best suggestions.
For a wax, really depends on what you are looking for and what your budget is. What color vehicle will it be going on? Bang for the buck, Poorboy's Natty's Blue is an excellent option, especially on darker colored vehicles. Some other great options are either of the P21S waxes, very easy to apply and remove, look great on any colored vehicle and they don't stain trim. If you're looking for a higher end wax, consider the Dodo Juice products.
There's certainly lots of other great waxes, I just need to know more about what you're looking for to provide the best suggestions.
Registered User
Ihave the makita 9227 to george.What i need are suggestions i have only 1 pad that came with the buffer, now what do u reccommend for my car..The car is black it has alot of swirl scratches on it, theres not really any big scratches on it but the swirl scratches really bug me im gonna need buffer pads, cleaning pad solution and a very good wax, if you could point me in the right direction that would be great.
Mine is black. Check out my posts on the last page or two for what I use. Great results and everything came from George. 

Registered User
Quote:
Similar question. I will be buying pads locally, which pads to use for what? I will need 2 pads, one for polish and one for the wax, what "type" of pad do i need for each? I think the buffer is a makita, but either way I dont have quick access to your stuff, that will be the next time around :-)Originally Posted by Gr8speed68
Ihave the makita 9227 to george.What i need are suggestions i have only 1 pad that came with the buffer, now what do u reccommend for my car..The car is black it has alot of swirl scratches on it, theres not really any big scratches on it but the swirl scratches really bug me im gonna need buffer pads, cleaning pad solution and a very good wax, if you could point me in the right direction that would be great.
Thanks!
Quote:
In the middle of the Dodo double wax application. Will have some pics tomorrow or Sunday.
-Tim
Nice Tim, can't wait to see how it came out and read what your thoughts were on the Dodo Juice Double Wax compared to the Natty's Red.Originally Posted by ttrank
George.In the middle of the Dodo double wax application. Will have some pics tomorrow or Sunday.

-Tim
Quote:
A very popular combination that a lot of professional detailers are turning to with a rotary buffer is the following:Originally Posted by Gr8speed68
Ihave the makita 9227 to george.What i need are suggestions i have only 1 pad that came with the buffer, now what do u reccommend for my car..The car is black it has alot of swirl scratches on it, theres not really any big scratches on it but the swirl scratches really bug me im gonna need buffer pads, cleaning pad solution and a very good wax, if you could point me in the right direction that would be great.
Menzerna Power Finish P0203S on green pads
Menzerna PO85RD on black pads
This works great on removing most swirls and imperfections while polishing to a high gloss and depth.
For a pad cleaning solution I use Snappy Clean in a 5 gallon bucket of water.
If you want to try out a very good wax for OB paint, try a sample of either Dodo Juice Blue Velvet or Dodo Juice Purple Haze. Both are specifically designed for darker colored vehicles and leave behind a ton of depth and gloss. Best of all the protection is great and produces very tight water beading and makes maintaining your vehicle very easy.
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Thanks!
For polishing, you don't want something too aggressive otherwise you may leave behind hazing or marring, but you also don't want something too soft otherwise you won't remove many imperfections. I don't know what brand pads your looking at but hopefully they are somewhat labeled for their use. Look for a pad specific for polishing. For your wax, I always apply wax by hand and remove with a microfiber towel by hand. If you're going to use a buffer to apply a liquid wax, then use the softest foam pad you can find.Originally Posted by jasondon
Similar question. I will be buying pads locally, which pads to use for what? I will need 2 pads, one for polish and one for the wax, what "type" of pad do i need for each? I think the buffer is a makita, but either way I dont have quick access to your stuff, that will be the next time around :-)Thanks!
Hope this helps,
George
Registered User
Hi George,
Thank you for your quick response and the information provided. Exactly what I was looking for! I will most likely order the one gallon size from your website shortly. I am currently running low on Plexus (which I use on my headlights,taillights,grille (and which I love!) ) ...was wondering if you had a product you recommend to try out for the mentioned surfaces. Thanks again!
Warm regards,
Jason
Thank you for your quick response and the information provided. Exactly what I was looking for! I will most likely order the one gallon size from your website shortly. I am currently running low on Plexus (which I use on my headlights,taillights,grille (and which I love!) ) ...was wondering if you had a product you recommend to try out for the mentioned surfaces. Thanks again!
Warm regards,
Jason
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Jason, good question. I keep a 4oz pump spray bottle of Poorboy's Spray & Wipe in my glove box for these situations. Spray & Wipe is filled with cleaning agents which is ideal for cleaning bird droppings, bug splatter, tar and other forms of contamination. Some detailers use it as a waterless wash, so it's definitely effective at removing contamination. It's offered in gallon sizes if it's a product you end up enjoying, which can save you a bit in the long run. The one thing I should note about this product though is it doesn't have any gloss enhancers or protection, so once you clean the surface you're left with what was protecting your car before you cleaned it.Quote:
Thank you for your quick response and the information provided. Exactly what I was looking for! I will most likely order the one gallon size from your website shortly. I am currently running low on Plexus (which I use on my headlights,taillights,grille (and which I love!) ) ...was wondering if you had a product you recommend to try out for the mentioned surfaces. Thanks again!
Warm regards,
Jason
Jason,Originally Posted by threatcon07
Hi George,Thank you for your quick response and the information provided. Exactly what I was looking for! I will most likely order the one gallon size from your website shortly. I am currently running low on Plexus (which I use on my headlights,taillights,grille (and which I love!) ) ...was wondering if you had a product you recommend to try out for the mentioned surfaces. Thanks again!
Warm regards,
Jason
Thanks for the response, you're going to like Spray & Wipe, it's a very versatile product. Plexus is great for the areas you are describing. If you wanted to try out something very similar, you could try Blackfire's One Step Plastic Cleaner, Polish, & Glaze. It acts just like Plexus and is significantly cheaper. Another good alternative if you didn't want to go the route of an aerosol can is Chemical Guys Clear Seal. Same idea, a 1 step plastic cleaner that leaves behind a slick surface and smells good too.
Keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out for you.
Thanks for your support

George
Registered User
I recently removed a decal from my car and where the decal was the paint is a little lighter. It looks like tan lines where you can still see the decal wording in the paint a little. Any one know anything that can help blend that with the rest of the paint?
Registered User
Do you have a detail guide somewhere. I bought a detailing kit from you acouple months ago. Basically I am kinda looking for a list of the different color LC pad, with the polish/wax that should be used and for what level of scratchs.
Registered User
Hi George, sorry to bother you again. I posted this in the main forum, just thought I would run it by you to see if you would tweak anything before I do the rest of the car. Here is what I did:
2003 coupe, 70K miles, (light) silver:
Meg clay bar - was very thorough
Meg #9 Swirl remover, applied with a PC7424 and Meg yellow polishing pad. I kept it at speed 4/5, did about 2 foot by 2 foot sections at a time. Moved slowly from front to back and vice versa, did this several times then wiped with a clean MF cloth.
Wiped clean with water/rubbing alcohol
Applied Meg Gold class wax by hand, dry, wiped of with a clean MF.
Now I only did this to the hood and front two quarter panels. My results? Ok.
When I look at the hood under direct sunlight, there are no swirl marks or scratches, and the shine is pretty good, but when I run my hand over it there isnt that perfect glass smoothness I was expecting. I wouldnt say it feels "rough", but for sure not silky smooth.
I do have access to new lake country yellow/black/white buffer pads if needed.
2003 coupe, 70K miles, (light) silver:
Meg clay bar - was very thorough
Meg #9 Swirl remover, applied with a PC7424 and Meg yellow polishing pad. I kept it at speed 4/5, did about 2 foot by 2 foot sections at a time. Moved slowly from front to back and vice versa, did this several times then wiped with a clean MF cloth.
Wiped clean with water/rubbing alcohol
Applied Meg Gold class wax by hand, dry, wiped of with a clean MF.
Now I only did this to the hood and front two quarter panels. My results? Ok.
When I look at the hood under direct sunlight, there are no swirl marks or scratches, and the shine is pretty good, but when I run my hand over it there isnt that perfect glass smoothness I was expecting. I wouldnt say it feels "rough", but for sure not silky smooth.
I do have access to new lake country yellow/black/white buffer pads if needed.
Quote:
Basically what you want to do is polish your paint. Usually when you debadge or remove a decal, what you see is the difference in the imperfections. Using a polish will help rid the imperfections and help blend it to an even finish. You'll get the best results if you're using a quality buffer.Originally Posted by geed up
I recently removed a decal from my car and where the decal was the paint is a little lighter. It looks like tan lines where you can still see the decal wording in the paint a little. Any one know anything that can help blend that with the rest of the paint?
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Here's a link to our new auto detailing guide. Pretty extensive, especially the polishing guide, which should answer most of your questions. Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.Originally Posted by WhosUrBuddiee
Do you have a detail guide somewhere. I bought a detailing kit from you acouple months ago. Basically I am kinda looking for a list of the different color LC pad, with the polish/wax that should be used and for what level of scratchs.
Quote:
2003 coupe, 70K miles, (light) silver:
Meg clay bar - was very thorough
Meg #9 Swirl remover, applied with a PC7424 and Meg yellow polishing pad. I kept it at speed 4/5, did about 2 foot by 2 foot sections at a time. Moved slowly from front to back and vice versa, did this several times then wiped with a clean MF cloth.
Wiped clean with water/rubbing alcohol
Applied Meg Gold class wax by hand, dry, wiped of with a clean MF.
Now I only did this to the hood and front two quarter panels. My results? Ok.
When I look at the hood under direct sunlight, there are no swirl marks or scratches, and the shine is pretty good, but when I run my hand over it there isnt that perfect glass smoothness I was expecting. I wouldnt say it feels "rough", but for sure not silky smooth.
I do have access to new lake country yellow/black/white buffer pads if needed.
What I'd do is assess each step after you do it. After you clay the paint, it should feel silky smooth, after polishing and wiping down with alcohol it should still feel smooth. Some protective products simply just don't have a slick feeling to them. Perhaps the Meg's Gold Class Wax is one of them. I haven't used the product so I can't say this for certain, but I know I've used some products that do not leave behind a really slick surface even after properly prepped.Originally Posted by jasondon
Hi George, sorry to bother you again. I posted this in the main forum, just thought I would run it by you to see if you would tweak anything before I do the rest of the car. Here is what I did:2003 coupe, 70K miles, (light) silver:
Meg clay bar - was very thorough
Meg #9 Swirl remover, applied with a PC7424 and Meg yellow polishing pad. I kept it at speed 4/5, did about 2 foot by 2 foot sections at a time. Moved slowly from front to back and vice versa, did this several times then wiped with a clean MF cloth.
Wiped clean with water/rubbing alcohol
Applied Meg Gold class wax by hand, dry, wiped of with a clean MF.
Now I only did this to the hood and front two quarter panels. My results? Ok.
When I look at the hood under direct sunlight, there are no swirl marks or scratches, and the shine is pretty good, but when I run my hand over it there isnt that perfect glass smoothness I was expecting. I wouldnt say it feels "rough", but for sure not silky smooth.
I do have access to new lake country yellow/black/white buffer pads if needed.
Changing the pad shouldn't make a difference in your slickness results. Also, be sure to make sure you completely removed the product from your paint and also that you aren't just feeling factory orange peel.
If you don't see any swirls or scratches, your paint should look pretty stunning.
Hope this helps narrow down the issue you're having. Let me know if there's anything else I can answer for you.
George
Registered User
Thanks for the reply. I looked at the list of polishes through your link and is there any that you would recommend. The order would be to wash, use the polish, then wax... right? Is scratch x effective to use on minor scratches? Thanks again for the info.
