Ask a Professional Detailer...
#316
Originally Posted by Infinite1
Congrats on getting the your shipment! I know the same excitement you're going through. I just used my PC for the first time last weekend (Pics to come George!)
On to your question....Orange pads are used typically first to remove possible deep intermediate type swirls as they have more "cutting" abilities. The white pads are used more for light swirl removal and final polishing (i.e. #1 on your list). The next is the black or grey pad which is used to apply your sealant or glaze. And of course you can apply the Natty's by hand. I used the Natty's blue myself and I find that doing it by hand to apply a thin layer is better than with the PC.
Also, you can save one of those white pads for later use. You don't have to switch to a brand new one for the next panel. A tip I learned is to mist your pads with water so they're not dry when they come in contact with your paint and pick up a nail brush(go to the travel sized items section in wal-mart they're about 50 cents) to clean out the caked up residue before moving to the next panel.
Well I hope that answered your question a little. George please correct me if I missed anything. Thanks!
Ryan
On to your question....Orange pads are used typically first to remove possible deep intermediate type swirls as they have more "cutting" abilities. The white pads are used more for light swirl removal and final polishing (i.e. #1 on your list). The next is the black or grey pad which is used to apply your sealant or glaze. And of course you can apply the Natty's by hand. I used the Natty's blue myself and I find that doing it by hand to apply a thin layer is better than with the PC.
Also, you can save one of those white pads for later use. You don't have to switch to a brand new one for the next panel. A tip I learned is to mist your pads with water so they're not dry when they come in contact with your paint and pick up a nail brush(go to the travel sized items section in wal-mart they're about 50 cents) to clean out the caked up residue before moving to the next panel.
Well I hope that answered your question a little. George please correct me if I missed anything. Thanks!
Ryan
So lets see if i got this right.
1) wash , clay etc
2) intensive polish with orange pad
3) final polish with white pad
4) glaze with black pad
5) sealant with black ( need one more black pad here)
6) wax with pads ( what type??)
7) detail spray w/ microfiber towls
#317
#318
#319
Oh one thing...Mist your foam pad with water before you try to apply since it's kinda hard...
Yeah I wouldn't use the same pad for Glaze/Sealant...You can get a Blue pad which is the same as a black/gray one that way it would be easier to determine which you used for sealant and which for glaze.
Yeah I wouldn't use the same pad for Glaze/Sealant...You can get a Blue pad which is the same as a black/gray one that way it would be easier to determine which you used for sealant and which for glaze.
#320
Originally Posted by Infinite1
Oh one thing...Mist your foam pad with water before you try to apply since it's kinda hard...
Yeah I wouldn't use the same pad for Glaze/Sealant...You can get a Blue pad which is the same as a black/gray one that way it would be easier to determine which you used for sealant and which for glaze.
Yeah I wouldn't use the same pad for Glaze/Sealant...You can get a Blue pad which is the same as a black/gray one that way it would be easier to determine which you used for sealant and which for glaze.
#321
#322
Originally Posted by malukalu
Thanks for the info... looks like i need more pads.
So lets see if i got this right.
1) wash , clay etc
2) intensive polish with orange pad
3) final polish with white pad
4) glaze with black pad
5) sealant with black ( need one more black pad here)
6) wax with pads ( what type??)
7) detail spray w/ microfiber towls
So lets see if i got this right.
1) wash , clay etc
2) intensive polish with orange pad
3) final polish with white pad
4) glaze with black pad
5) sealant with black ( need one more black pad here)
6) wax with pads ( what type??)
7) detail spray w/ microfiber towls
If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
For the wax, a simple foam applicator pad will do.
Ryan - You were right on point with all of your advice, thanks for sharing. I am looking forward to seeing and hearing about your results of your detail.
George
#323
Thanks for the kind words George! I learned all that from you and following this thread.
As far as the detail goes it went well other than I didn't finish the A-pillars, side mirrors(which i may do by hand)and the roof. I figure after spending 9 hrs in 105 degree weather with 100% humidity I had about enough...Hahaha...I planned on finishing it this weekend but now a big storm hit us here in the gulf and I find my car outside just drenched with water (you can imagine my frustration) But it's ok...I can just wash and apply a little bit more wax to the parts finished and PC the rest the stuff I didn't. I'll get better pics too..
Ryan
As far as the detail goes it went well other than I didn't finish the A-pillars, side mirrors(which i may do by hand)and the roof. I figure after spending 9 hrs in 105 degree weather with 100% humidity I had about enough...Hahaha...I planned on finishing it this weekend but now a big storm hit us here in the gulf and I find my car outside just drenched with water (you can imagine my frustration) But it's ok...I can just wash and apply a little bit more wax to the parts finished and PC the rest the stuff I didn't. I'll get better pics too..
Ryan
#325
George,
I'm getting ready to start my practice run with the PC on my old clunker but I'm a bit confused on what to do with areas that can't be polished with the PC (chrome trim, lettering, door handle wells, mirrors, etc.). I assume that the only way is to do these is by hand with a foam pad like Ryan said he may do on his detail? Any areas that are not going to be polished with the PC need to be taped off too, right?
I'm getting ready to start my practice run with the PC on my old clunker but I'm a bit confused on what to do with areas that can't be polished with the PC (chrome trim, lettering, door handle wells, mirrors, etc.). I assume that the only way is to do these is by hand with a foam pad like Ryan said he may do on his detail? Any areas that are not going to be polished with the PC need to be taped off too, right?
#326
Originally Posted by luv2drv_myG35
George,
I'm getting ready to start my practice run with the PC on my old clunker but I'm a bit confused on what to do with areas that can't be polished with the PC (chrome trim, lettering, door handle wells, mirrors, etc.). I assume that the only way is to do these is by hand with a foam pad like Ryan said he may do on his detail? Any areas that are not going to be polished with the PC need to be taped off too, right?
I'm getting ready to start my practice run with the PC on my old clunker but I'm a bit confused on what to do with areas that can't be polished with the PC (chrome trim, lettering, door handle wells, mirrors, etc.). I assume that the only way is to do these is by hand with a foam pad like Ryan said he may do on his detail? Any areas that are not going to be polished with the PC need to be taped off too, right?
There are some areas, like you mentioned, that you want to have a hand applicator for, as the PC cannot get into some tight places.
Keep us posted on how you make out, pics are always a plus. Take your time and good luck!
George
#327
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
For your wheels, what kind of wheels are they? Stock wheels? On a brand new set of wheels, I typically just recommend Poorboy's Wheel Sealant, shampoo, water and a dedicated wash mitt to maintain. The Wheel Sealant will make future cleanings a breeze by adding a layer of protection to help prevent contamination, such as brake dust, from becoming embedded to your wheel. If you need a cleaner from stubborn brake dust, it is going to depend on what type of wheel you have for me to make the proper recommendation. For a tire dressing, I prefer Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright, which is a great water based dressing that will not sling, and has a great finish to it.
Tell me a little more about your wheels and I'll see what packages we have for you.
Look forward to hearing back from you.
George
Tell me a little more about your wheels and I'll see what packages we have for you.
Look forward to hearing back from you.
George
To answer your question, my wheels are stock 18".
Thanks again!
js
#329
Just incase, here it is again:
I have been reading this thread for two hours and there are just too many options to pick from so I need some help please.
My car is an 04' Black Sedan
I purchased it with 32k miles 2 years ago and it was not taken care of too well before I got it but has been very babied since then. I wash it weekly and try to wax every 6-8 weeks. I live in Phoenix (hot) and it sits outside every day and garaged at night.
I need everything from wheels to windows…
Here are my thoughts so far, please comment as needed.
- I will be buying a PC kit from you.
- The paint is in good shape but I still think a medium cut may be necessary to have a good fresh start. What should I get to make it look great as my daily driver without going too overboard on cost? I see sometimes you say just go with the PO106ff and other times to polish in a 2-step. I may be able to get away with the PO106ff but is there any way to tell for sure?
- Do you still recommend the EX-P and Natty Blue for a situation like mine or is there something I would benefit more from?
- I have un-clear coated polished wheels. Is the Finish Restorer, Two Sided Polishing Towel, and Wheel Sealant still the best combo? These are very expensive wheels and I would like to take every precaution possible with them.
- I seems like the 303 Aerospace, Invisible Glass and Leatheique is the best interior combo for me.
- I know I need the large wash kit with towels, grit guard, PB bug remover and misc accessories.
I guess my biggest question is on the polish. I want to be sure before placing an order of this size.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tim
Also here is GC's reply:
I have been reading this thread for two hours and there are just too many options to pick from so I need some help please.
My car is an 04' Black Sedan
I purchased it with 32k miles 2 years ago and it was not taken care of too well before I got it but has been very babied since then. I wash it weekly and try to wax every 6-8 weeks. I live in Phoenix (hot) and it sits outside every day and garaged at night.
I need everything from wheels to windows…
Here are my thoughts so far, please comment as needed.
- I will be buying a PC kit from you.
- The paint is in good shape but I still think a medium cut may be necessary to have a good fresh start. What should I get to make it look great as my daily driver without going too overboard on cost? I see sometimes you say just go with the PO106ff and other times to polish in a 2-step. I may be able to get away with the PO106ff but is there any way to tell for sure?
- Do you still recommend the EX-P and Natty Blue for a situation like mine or is there something I would benefit more from?
- I have un-clear coated polished wheels. Is the Finish Restorer, Two Sided Polishing Towel, and Wheel Sealant still the best combo? These are very expensive wheels and I would like to take every precaution possible with them.
- I seems like the 303 Aerospace, Invisible Glass and Leatheique is the best interior combo for me.
- I know I need the large wash kit with towels, grit guard, PB bug remover and misc accessories.
I guess my biggest question is on the polish. I want to be sure before placing an order of this size.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tim
Also here is GC's reply:
Tim, whether you should go with a two step process or not will depend on how bad your paint is. In most cases the 0106FF will be just fine. That's definitely my favorite polish to use now. I used to use Poorboys SSR products, which are still great, however the 0106FF is definitely better.
If your paint is in really bad shape, like this G that I detailed, a 2nd step may be required. For that G, I used Menzerna's PG and then followed up with SSR1.
Since your Sedan is BO, I would definitely recommend a sealant like EX-P, Zaino Z2, or Menzerna's FMJ. I haven't personally used FMJ yet, but it comes highly recommended by George. 24 hours after applying your sealant of choice, I would apply a coat of Natty's Blue, since it is formulated for darker colors.
At the end of the day, if you were to choose only one polish, the 0106FF would be my choice hands down.
If your paint is in really bad shape, like this G that I detailed, a 2nd step may be required. For that G, I used Menzerna's PG and then followed up with SSR1.
Since your Sedan is BO, I would definitely recommend a sealant like EX-P, Zaino Z2, or Menzerna's FMJ. I haven't personally used FMJ yet, but it comes highly recommended by George. 24 hours after applying your sealant of choice, I would apply a coat of Natty's Blue, since it is formulated for darker colors.
At the end of the day, if you were to choose only one polish, the 0106FF would be my choice hands down.
#330
Originally Posted by ttrank
- I will be buying a PC kit from you.
- The paint is in good shape but I still think a medium cut may be necessary to have a good fresh start. What should I get to make it look great as my daily driver without going too overboard on cost? I see sometimes you say just go with the PO106ff and other times to polish in a 2-step. I may be able to get away with the PO106ff but is there any way to tell for sure?
- Do you still recommend the EX-P and Natty Blue for a situation like mine or is there something I would benefit more from?
- I have un-clear coated polished wheels. Is the Finish Restorer, Two Sided Polishing Towel, and Wheel Sealant still the best combo? These are very expensive wheels and I would like to take every precaution possible with them.
- I seems like the 303 Aerospace, Invisible Glass and Leatheique is the best interior combo for me.
- I know I need the large wash kit with towels, grit guard, PB bug remover and misc accessories.
I guess my biggest question is on the polish. I want to be sure before placing an order of this size.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tim
- The paint is in good shape but I still think a medium cut may be necessary to have a good fresh start. What should I get to make it look great as my daily driver without going too overboard on cost? I see sometimes you say just go with the PO106ff and other times to polish in a 2-step. I may be able to get away with the PO106ff but is there any way to tell for sure?
- Do you still recommend the EX-P and Natty Blue for a situation like mine or is there something I would benefit more from?
- I have un-clear coated polished wheels. Is the Finish Restorer, Two Sided Polishing Towel, and Wheel Sealant still the best combo? These are very expensive wheels and I would like to take every precaution possible with them.
- I seems like the 303 Aerospace, Invisible Glass and Leatheique is the best interior combo for me.
- I know I need the large wash kit with towels, grit guard, PB bug remover and misc accessories.
I guess my biggest question is on the polish. I want to be sure before placing an order of this size.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tim
You seem to be right on track with everything, I'll see what I can do to help answer any questions you may have.
The PC is a great investment, with the time and energy it saves during polishing it pays for itself in one use. The results being significantly better than a hand application makes it even more of a sound investment.
Regarding the PO106ff polish, it's difficult to say without seeing the vehicle. The PO106ff does have some bite to it, where it can remove light to the lesser side of medium imperfections. Considering your vehicle is black and you said was neglected by the previous owner, there is a good chance you could benefit from a dedicated medium cut polish. Couple of options, Menzerna Intensive Polish is going to give you more cut than PO106ff alone, however you'll have to follow up with PO106ff or another finishing polish like Final Polish II. You could try PO106ff and see what your results are like, perhaps even applying two coats, one with an orange light cutting pad and follow up with a second coat on a white polishing pad. Then if there are still imperfections in the paint, tackle them come Spring or when you plan on doing your next big detail. I think you'll fall in love with the finish the 106ff leaves you with as it is second to none for finishing polishes. If you'd like to take a picture for me in direct sunlight or under florescent lighting where it will show the condition of the clear coat, I'd be happy to give you my best recommendation on what to use to remove them.
EX-P and Natty's blue is an excellent combo for OB paint. Easy to use, durable, and a deep wet gloss to it. Bang for the buck it is probably one of the best combinations out there. You could try Natty's Red limited edition for slightly more depth and gloss and a little slicker finish. If you are really going for the best look, Pinnacle Souveran is gorgeous on dark colors, such as black, red, and blue. It gives off more of a liquid, dripping wet finish, very easy to use, however it has short durability of 2 - 4 weeks, compared to 4 - 8 weeks from Natty's. To be honest, in your hot climate, I think Souveran wouldn't be worth the extra money, considering you'll be getting the lower side of the durability scale.
For your wheels, that is an excellent combination to go with. The Finish Restorer along with the two-sided metal polishing towel will help bring back the finish on your wheels. The Wheel Sealant will help properly protect them and will make cleaning them a breeze.
Sounds like the interior is right on track, same products I use on my interior.
Can't go wrong with a big wash kit. Washing and drying is where a majority of imperfections occur so investing in the proper tools and following proper techniques will help minimize the chances of adding more imperfections, especially after you spend a lot of time polishing your G to a showroom finish.
Feel free to ask me any other questions you may have. I realize this is a lot to digest if this is your first time tackling a detail this large. When polishing with the PC try following these steps for optimal results:
As far as the speed is concerned, I typically will spread the product evenly around on my working area 18" x 18" or so, at speed setting 3. When I'm actually ready to begin correcting the paint, kick it right up to 5 or 6 if needed. From my experience, the PC needs to be operated at least at speed setting 5 for optimal paint correction results. I encourage you to make a total of 6 passes with the buffer on each part of your paint. What I mean by this is outline a box as your working area (start smaller until you feel comfortable moving larger, so either 1' x 1' or 18" x 18"). Starting in the top left corner make your way straight across to the right, moving the buffer no faster than 2" per second, ideally about 1" per second. As you reach the far side of your box, move the PC down enough so that you would overlap the previous pass by about 50%. Continue moving left and do the same pattern until the box has been completed. Now perform the same technique while you do the same motion top to bottom. These 4 passes should be applied with moderate pressure, not so much that the PC bogs down (you'll find your zone after a few passes). I perform a final set of 2 passes with only the weight of the buffer going back to the left to right motion. When finished remove with a MF towel.
Hope this helps. Keep us posted on what you end up picking up and how you make out on your first detail.
George