The waterless spray clean systems that those dudes at gas stations try to hustle work well also.

Spray clean and a piece of soft rubber, in my instance a rubber keychain ornament worked well on getting the tough crap out.
I did it to debadge my tc when I had it. I also used it on debadging my z.

 

you could use a 3step claybar kit..would prob help out alot an doesnt cost much

 

Just to clear up some things. Some info posted here is wrong and thats fine we're all here to learn. so before i make comments and corrections I want to say I am in no way trying to bash anyone. Just sharing my knowledge and experience on detailing, since I do it professionally.


hope you mean wet sanding. to wetsand clearcoat correctly and safely one needs to have a PTG [paint thickness gauge], several grits of wet sandpaper [1000, 2000, 2500, 3000] then after the area is properly wetsanded, it needs to be compounded and then hit with an aggressive polish, then a finishing polish to get it perfect.

Correct, wetsanding is the right tyoe of sanding, but the term burning the clear refers to using a rotary buffer incorrectly. The term used when taking off too much clearcoat when wetsanding is called striking-through

Correct.

In this case for the "shadow" or outline left after debadging, a white pad with a medium/fine polish would be enough. no need to wetsand or compound.

Clay will not "buff" off any scratches. Clay is only used to clean the surface from all contaminants. also liquid clays are not always effective, I would use a clay kit such as mothers, meguairs or magic clay [blue].

as said above Plastx is ONLY for plastic. not for use on paint. for paint you want to use appropriate polishes and compounds such as Menzerna

I hope my comments did not offend anyone. to the OP, and anyone else, if you have any questions let me know ill be glad to answer them