Dealer tells me I have to get a new clutch
#1
Dealer tells me I have to get a new clutch
I have a 06/6MT. My clutch sticks when I rev high, and if I rev higher it starts to sink.
I read another thread and it seems like this is a known issue. The car is still under the 60,000/4 yr warranty, but is past the 12,000/1 yr "wear and tear" parts warranty. What should I say to get the work done for free?
I stopped by the dealer today and they told me I would need a new clutch which would be a few thousand dollars.
If I end up having to get a new clutch, whats a good performance clutch?
Thanks in advance!!!
I read another thread and it seems like this is a known issue. The car is still under the 60,000/4 yr warranty, but is past the 12,000/1 yr "wear and tear" parts warranty. What should I say to get the work done for free?
I stopped by the dealer today and they told me I would need a new clutch which would be a few thousand dollars.
If I end up having to get a new clutch, whats a good performance clutch?
Thanks in advance!!!
#3
The OE clutch is actually not very expensive; I was quoted about $300. However the stock flywheel was ~$1500.
I haven't driven the jwt clutch, but I have the jwt flywheel. I have the clutchmasters stage1 clutch. I've had it for over two years now, and I still love it. However, it is very stiff. I've been told that it is similar to the jwt clutch.
However, if you don't plan on keeping the car for more than a couple of years, I say go with an OE clutch and just resurface your flywheel. Most people, including the dealer will tell you that the stock flywheel cannot be resurfaced because its a dual-mass configuration, but I've read of people that have resurfaced it without problems.
I suggest staying with the OE parts because a stiff clutch will make devalue the car at trade in time, and all of the aftermarket flywheels rattle. The jwt rattles so badly that some people think my car is actually broken.
Then again, you may not have to replace your clutch. Is it slipping, or is it just sinking to the floor? If it's the latter, try something:
Buy a stainless steel brake line. I got mine from SGP in texas. I think paid less than $50 shipped. It takes maybe an hour, tops, to swap out the stock rubber clutch line and to do a bleed/flush.
I had the stuck/sinking clutch problem a couple of times before I wore out my clutch. After I upgraded my clutch, I had the problem constantly. Swapping out the clutch line fixed the problem, and it hasn't happened again in over two years.
Of course, that may not be your problem. It may actually be your master or slave cylinder, but good luck convincing your dealer to replace those. That's why I suggest the clutch line. It's cheap and easy to do(just make sure you have a second guy to help with the bleed). And if it doesn't fix the issue, you're out $50 and an hour of wrenching on your car.
If your clutch isn't slipping, I don't think you need a new clutch.
I haven't driven the jwt clutch, but I have the jwt flywheel. I have the clutchmasters stage1 clutch. I've had it for over two years now, and I still love it. However, it is very stiff. I've been told that it is similar to the jwt clutch.
However, if you don't plan on keeping the car for more than a couple of years, I say go with an OE clutch and just resurface your flywheel. Most people, including the dealer will tell you that the stock flywheel cannot be resurfaced because its a dual-mass configuration, but I've read of people that have resurfaced it without problems.
I suggest staying with the OE parts because a stiff clutch will make devalue the car at trade in time, and all of the aftermarket flywheels rattle. The jwt rattles so badly that some people think my car is actually broken.
Then again, you may not have to replace your clutch. Is it slipping, or is it just sinking to the floor? If it's the latter, try something:
Buy a stainless steel brake line. I got mine from SGP in texas. I think paid less than $50 shipped. It takes maybe an hour, tops, to swap out the stock rubber clutch line and to do a bleed/flush.
I had the stuck/sinking clutch problem a couple of times before I wore out my clutch. After I upgraded my clutch, I had the problem constantly. Swapping out the clutch line fixed the problem, and it hasn't happened again in over two years.
Of course, that may not be your problem. It may actually be your master or slave cylinder, but good luck convincing your dealer to replace those. That's why I suggest the clutch line. It's cheap and easy to do(just make sure you have a second guy to help with the bleed). And if it doesn't fix the issue, you're out $50 and an hour of wrenching on your car.
If your clutch isn't slipping, I don't think you need a new clutch.
#4
#5
go with an oem clutch disk. your stock flywheel is probably fine. have it checked by an honest, reputable shop before resurfacing/replacing.
i had my tranny/clutch replaced under warranty about a year ago after 55k kms. the dealer briefly tried to sell me on a new flywheel, but i told them to stuff themselves and give me a status report on the stock flywheel. after inspection, they agreed that it was fine. problem solved.
if you know how to drive and don't abuse the car, the stock flywheel should last 100k+ kms.
i had my tranny/clutch replaced under warranty about a year ago after 55k kms. the dealer briefly tried to sell me on a new flywheel, but i told them to stuff themselves and give me a status report on the stock flywheel. after inspection, they agreed that it was fine. problem solved.
if you know how to drive and don't abuse the car, the stock flywheel should last 100k+ kms.
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#13
Originally Posted by BlueDevilBAMF
Interesting didn't know that...
Might be similar to the VW clutch...which is light as a feather as well. You would think going to a softer clutch would be easier but if its too soft, I find it hard to get used to.
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