Edge Racing Torque Converter
#16
03-06-2010, 11:40 AM
For those that want to understand the advantages and disadvantages of increasing stall speed and how to increase TC efficency, read this one page document http://www.converter.cc/tech_talk/. The company is called Yank, and IMO, they make by far the best and most efficent TCs on the market. Lots of friends have had great luck with their TCs and Yank[s approach and design to TCs is impressive. Too bad they don't make TCs for our cars. One interesting note about TCs is how dramatically they can increase torque at launch. The OEM TC has a multiplication of 2.0. That means if you're car is making 230rwtq, the TC will put 460rwtq at the initial hit. A 6MT can't do that.
Last edited by DaveB; 03-06-2010 at 02:20 PM.
#17
03-06-2010, 01:12 PM
I'm not taking side with anyone here... but I will say, I had a couple lengthy conversations with Andrei over two years ago when I was considering tc... also, talked with good friend DaveO...
The OEM stall speed is higher than what ppl originally thought (closer to 2800)...
after discussions with Andrei and driving DaveO's car and Dereks (dsskyline) car (both with TC) I decided it's not really worth it for me... DaveO has (had actually, the car is gone now) very good trq and it was very, very smooth (ttly oem feeling), but I have managed to get good trq with other methods... Dereks' car is fast and I love the VB, but his trq converter is notchy (for lack of better description).
a tc is not necessarily a bad idea - I just think its pretty far down on the bang for buck list (for me)...
The OEM stall speed is higher than what ppl originally thought (closer to 2800)...
after discussions with Andrei and driving DaveO's car and Dereks (dsskyline) car (both with TC) I decided it's not really worth it for me... DaveO has (had actually, the car is gone now) very good trq and it was very, very smooth (ttly oem feeling), but I have managed to get good trq with other methods... Dereks' car is fast and I love the VB, but his trq converter is notchy (for lack of better description).
a tc is not necessarily a bad idea - I just think its pretty far down on the bang for buck list (for me)...
#19
05-05-2010, 11:12 PM
)I just want to be clear though - I didn't post that initial to dissuade anyone from getting it...
#21
03-07-2020, 02:26 PM
Is anybody else interested in getting a torque converter?
If there are a few other people interested we can get much better pricing.
I just spend a good 40 minutes on the phone with Edge Racing in learning and understanding what the stock torque converter is compared to having one built.
Here's a little info on the subject...
Stock torque converter has a true stall of 2100-2400 depending on the application. You may be able to flash stall it to 2500 range but that does nothing for you but generate extra heat due to the excessive tolerances of the Nissan torque converter. Stock converter is not effiecient in these regards. Tolerances are kept very tight to reduce drivetrain loss while increasing the stall we can increase multiplication for longer for a better launch.
Stock TC has 1.8:0 multiplication. This can be raised to give you much better off the line acceleration.
They are welded, and hardened then put into a cryomatic freezer to even all the molecules out so that weld joint are not weak.
Tighter tolerances means that there is less slipping which reduces heat and reducing drivetrain loss. Essentially more power to the wheels. Stock TC has a 14-18% loss depending on throttle and the losses only go up from there when you have power adders.
More power, higher stall rate, but very normal under typical driving conditions. Perfect for normal guys who drive hard, or guys who drive hard all the time but car isn't a dedicated track car.
If you are interested (AND YOU ALL SHOULD BE) send me a PM. Redirect any/all 5AT guys you know as well.
If there are a few other people interested we can get much better pricing.
I just spend a good 40 minutes on the phone with Edge Racing in learning and understanding what the stock torque converter is compared to having one built.
Here's a little info on the subject...
Stock torque converter has a true stall of 2100-2400 depending on the application. You may be able to flash stall it to 2500 range but that does nothing for you but generate extra heat due to the excessive tolerances of the Nissan torque converter. Stock converter is not effiecient in these regards. Tolerances are kept very tight to reduce drivetrain loss while increasing the stall we can increase multiplication for longer for a better launch.
Stock TC has 1.8:0 multiplication. This can be raised to give you much better off the line acceleration.
They are welded, and hardened then put into a cryomatic freezer to even all the molecules out so that weld joint are not weak.
Tighter tolerances means that there is less slipping which reduces heat and reducing drivetrain loss. Essentially more power to the wheels. Stock TC has a 14-18% loss depending on throttle and the losses only go up from there when you have power adders.
More power, higher stall rate, but very normal under typical driving conditions. Perfect for normal guys who drive hard, or guys who drive hard all the time but car isn't a dedicated track car.
If you are interested (AND YOU ALL SHOULD BE) send me a PM. Redirect any/all 5AT guys you know as well.
#22
03-07-2020, 02:38 PM
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#23
03-07-2020, 04:28 PM
Registered User
Higher stall doesn't do much with a stock engine, the factory converter is well mated to the torque curve of the engine. Once you get into mods that change the torque curve to higher on the RPM range, then a higher stall will make up for the lower end power losses. With a V6 engine that is all done before 7000 rpm, it seems the stock 2400-2500 (as others have said) converter is perfect for the car. A shift kit would probably be money better spent since it quickens the shifts themselves.
With a mild cam in my Chevelle, the stock 1200-1400 rpm stall wasn't working out well. Went with a B&M Holeshot converter with a 2600-2800 rpm stall. Made a huge improvement off the line. When I changed cams, added a single plane high rise intake and a bigger carb, my car had little power under 3500 rpm. So went with a Hughes 4000 stall speed converter. It would feel a touch mushy around town just tipping into the throttle, but anything more than 1/3rd throttle and it would pull pretty well. Added an aftermarket cooler, didn't have any issues with excessive heat.
With my Cutlass and just the typical bolt-ons, going with the GM diesel converter (2200 rpm stall) was enough to make a noticeable improvement out of the hole. Since it was an OEM converter, it was fine without an aftermarket cooler. When I swapped in a 455, the extra 110 lb-ft torque would give me a 2400 rpm stall speed.
So you really have to take into consideration what RPM your engine operates in and work with a transmission company that will help you fine tune where your stall speed should be. Get it dialed in properly and you'll really notice the difference.
With a mild cam in my Chevelle, the stock 1200-1400 rpm stall wasn't working out well. Went with a B&M Holeshot converter with a 2600-2800 rpm stall. Made a huge improvement off the line. When I changed cams, added a single plane high rise intake and a bigger carb, my car had little power under 3500 rpm. So went with a Hughes 4000 stall speed converter. It would feel a touch mushy around town just tipping into the throttle, but anything more than 1/3rd throttle and it would pull pretty well. Added an aftermarket cooler, didn't have any issues with excessive heat.
With my Cutlass and just the typical bolt-ons, going with the GM diesel converter (2200 rpm stall) was enough to make a noticeable improvement out of the hole. Since it was an OEM converter, it was fine without an aftermarket cooler. When I swapped in a 455, the extra 110 lb-ft torque would give me a 2400 rpm stall speed.
So you really have to take into consideration what RPM your engine operates in and work with a transmission company that will help you fine tune where your stall speed should be. Get it dialed in properly and you'll really notice the difference.
#24
03-07-2020, 05:51 PM
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Location: Washington State
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I don't know if there's as much variety in the RE5R05A world but I'm sure there's a healthy selection out there.
If you just want to go FASTER then changing the rear diff gears is far more cost effective with a bigger gain. Swapping converters is definitely a performance upgrade but there's a lot of other components that are needed first.
#25
08-30-2022, 10:15 PM
ay man if you still offering them lmk
Is anybody else interested in getting a torque converter?
If there are a few other people interested we can get much better pricing.
I just spend a good 40 minutes on the phone with Edge Racing in learning and understanding what the stock torque converter is compared to having one built.
Here's a little info on the subject...
Stock torque converter has a true stall of 2100-2400 depending on the application. You may be able to flash stall it to 2500 range but that does nothing for you but generate extra heat due to the excessive tolerances of the Nissan torque converter. Stock converter is not effiecient in these regards. Tolerances are kept very tight to reduce drivetrain loss while increasing the stall we can increase multiplication for longer for a better launch.
Stock TC has 1.8:0 multiplication. This can be raised to give you much better off the line acceleration.
They are welded, and hardened then put into a cryomatic freezer to even all the molecules out so that weld joint are not weak.
Tighter tolerances means that there is less slipping which reduces heat and reducing drivetrain loss. Essentially more power to the wheels. Stock TC has a 14-18% loss depending on throttle and the losses only go up from there when you have power adders.
More power, higher stall rate, but very normal under typical driving conditions. Perfect for normal guys who drive hard, or guys who drive hard all the time but car isn't a dedicated track car.
If you are interested (AND YOU ALL SHOULD BE) send me a PM. Redirect any/all 5AT guys you know as well.
If there are a few other people interested we can get much better pricing.
I just spend a good 40 minutes on the phone with Edge Racing in learning and understanding what the stock torque converter is compared to having one built.
Here's a little info on the subject...
Stock torque converter has a true stall of 2100-2400 depending on the application. You may be able to flash stall it to 2500 range but that does nothing for you but generate extra heat due to the excessive tolerances of the Nissan torque converter. Stock converter is not effiecient in these regards. Tolerances are kept very tight to reduce drivetrain loss while increasing the stall we can increase multiplication for longer for a better launch.
Stock TC has 1.8:0 multiplication. This can be raised to give you much better off the line acceleration.
They are welded, and hardened then put into a cryomatic freezer to even all the molecules out so that weld joint are not weak.
Tighter tolerances means that there is less slipping which reduces heat and reducing drivetrain loss. Essentially more power to the wheels. Stock TC has a 14-18% loss depending on throttle and the losses only go up from there when you have power adders.
More power, higher stall rate, but very normal under typical driving conditions. Perfect for normal guys who drive hard, or guys who drive hard all the time but car isn't a dedicated track car.
If you are interested (AND YOU ALL SHOULD BE) send me a PM. Redirect any/all 5AT guys you know as well.
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