DIY: Stainless steel clutch line
DIY: Stainless steel clutch line
I never saw a good DIY on my350z or here. Lack of detail and lack of pictures.
This took me about 3-4 hours mostly because I worked in 90+ degree weather in the sun, crawling on my *** on a sun baked driveway so I took breaks and I took pics.
The reason why I changed the line and fluid is because the clutch pedal stuck to the floor sometimes and I even stalled the car driving it sometimes because it would catch me by surprise because the engage point would be a lot sooner. Really embarrassing. That problem could also be caused by the clutch master cylinder which I have but before I spent many more hours changing that I wanted to see if the clutch line and new DOT 4 fluid would fix it and save a brand new clutch master cylinder for later when it will actually be needed.
The procedure is simple. The only tool that will take off the hard line from the stock rubber line is a "10mm flexible line wrench." No other tool will work including the same wrench that is not flexible or swivels. I tried both. If you try any other tool you will strip the bolt.
First loosen the hard line with the 10mm flexible wrench.
Using a pair of pliers slide the clip that sits right below the hard line bolt off the clip that is welded on the car subframe. This clip is spring loaded and it has a bent edge so that it's easy to grab with a pair of pliers. See the pic.
After that loosen the 12mm bolt on the transmission. See pic.
Install the new line in reverse order.
To bleed the system fill clutch reservoir constantly and pump the pedal letting it stick to the floor and open the bleeder bolt and continue from the beginning. See pic. I bled the system without help or a bleeder kit.
Pics.
This took me about 3-4 hours mostly because I worked in 90+ degree weather in the sun, crawling on my *** on a sun baked driveway so I took breaks and I took pics.
The reason why I changed the line and fluid is because the clutch pedal stuck to the floor sometimes and I even stalled the car driving it sometimes because it would catch me by surprise because the engage point would be a lot sooner. Really embarrassing. That problem could also be caused by the clutch master cylinder which I have but before I spent many more hours changing that I wanted to see if the clutch line and new DOT 4 fluid would fix it and save a brand new clutch master cylinder for later when it will actually be needed.
The procedure is simple. The only tool that will take off the hard line from the stock rubber line is a "10mm flexible line wrench." No other tool will work including the same wrench that is not flexible or swivels. I tried both. If you try any other tool you will strip the bolt.
First loosen the hard line with the 10mm flexible wrench.
Using a pair of pliers slide the clip that sits right below the hard line bolt off the clip that is welded on the car subframe. This clip is spring loaded and it has a bent edge so that it's easy to grab with a pair of pliers. See the pic.
After that loosen the 12mm bolt on the transmission. See pic.
Install the new line in reverse order.
To bleed the system fill clutch reservoir constantly and pump the pedal letting it stick to the floor and open the bleeder bolt and continue from the beginning. See pic. I bled the system without help or a bleeder kit.
Pics.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 301
Likes: 19
From: Maryland
Excellent write up my friend! So, is your clutch pedal behaving now? Also, do you mind listing the parts used, price of parts and where you bought them from? If it worked for you then I def. wanna have this done!
It did not fix it. The clutch pedal still gets stuck. I'll have to change the clutch master cylinder when it gets a little cooler outside.
I bought the clutch line a year ago from CZP http://www.conceptzperformance.com/specials.php. Don't remember what I paid for the line.
I bought the clutch line a year ago from CZP http://www.conceptzperformance.com/specials.php. Don't remember what I paid for the line.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Bump on a great diy which I'm gonna have to do myself soon. My clutch pedal always drops to the midway point in heavy traffic and stop and go... I tried passing the faulty clutch master cylinder under warrenty but Infinity doesn't want anything to do with it. Those asses say it has nothing to do with the 110k or 6 year powertrain warrenty but then again a master cylinder is soaked in oil and does have something to do with the powertrain. Go figure... As an owner of a Gcoupe I'm really not impressed about how Infiniti stands behind their vehicles at all. I'm gonna be getting a new master cylinder from the dealer along with a new SS clutch line for it. Hopefully it'll do the trick. I'm just skippy about how I'm gonna bleed the clutch system. Does anyone have a diy on here for the whole diy on a master cyclinder swap A-Z. Thanks in advance
I never saw a good DIY on my350z or here. Lack of detail and lack of pictures.
This took me about 3-4 hours mostly because I worked in 90+ degree weather in the sun, crawling on my *** on a sun baked driveway so I took breaks and I took pics.
The reason why I changed the line and fluid is because the clutch pedal stuck to the floor sometimes and I even stalled the car driving it sometimes because it would catch me by surprise because the engage point would be a lot sooner. Really embarrassing. That problem could also be caused by the clutch master cylinder which I have but before I spent many more hours changing that I wanted to see if the clutch line and new DOT 4 fluid would fix it and save a brand new clutch master cylinder for later when it will actually be needed.
The procedure is simple. The only tool that will take off the hard line from the stock rubber line is a "10mm flexible line wrench." No other tool will work including the same wrench that is not flexible or swivels. I tried both. If you try any other tool you will strip the bolt.
First loosen the hard line with the 10mm flexible wrench.
Using a pair of pliers slide the clip that sits right below the hard line bolt off the clip that is welded on the car subframe. This clip is spring loaded and it has a bent edge so that it's easy to grab with a pair of pliers. See the pic.
After that loosen the 12mm bolt on the transmission. See pic.
Install the new line in reverse order.
To bleed the system fill clutch reservoir constantly and pump the pedal letting it stick to the floor and open the bleeder bolt and continue from the beginning. See pic. I bled the system without help or a bleeder kit.
Pics.
This took me about 3-4 hours mostly because I worked in 90+ degree weather in the sun, crawling on my *** on a sun baked driveway so I took breaks and I took pics.
The reason why I changed the line and fluid is because the clutch pedal stuck to the floor sometimes and I even stalled the car driving it sometimes because it would catch me by surprise because the engage point would be a lot sooner. Really embarrassing. That problem could also be caused by the clutch master cylinder which I have but before I spent many more hours changing that I wanted to see if the clutch line and new DOT 4 fluid would fix it and save a brand new clutch master cylinder for later when it will actually be needed.
The procedure is simple. The only tool that will take off the hard line from the stock rubber line is a "10mm flexible line wrench." No other tool will work including the same wrench that is not flexible or swivels. I tried both. If you try any other tool you will strip the bolt.
First loosen the hard line with the 10mm flexible wrench.
Using a pair of pliers slide the clip that sits right below the hard line bolt off the clip that is welded on the car subframe. This clip is spring loaded and it has a bent edge so that it's easy to grab with a pair of pliers. See the pic.
After that loosen the 12mm bolt on the transmission. See pic.
Install the new line in reverse order.
To bleed the system fill clutch reservoir constantly and pump the pedal letting it stick to the floor and open the bleeder bolt and continue from the beginning. See pic. I bled the system without help or a bleeder kit.
Pics.
It's a good idea to take off the smaller plastic undertray too as it will give more clearance to do work....
Clutch Fluid
Sorry to reopen an old thread, but I am about to do this.
This may be a dumb question, but do you have to drain the clutch fluid first? If yes, how? and how do you put the clutch fluid back in? I am assuming you cant just use the reservoir if it is drained.
Thanks.
This may be a dumb question, but do you have to drain the clutch fluid first? If yes, how? and how do you put the clutch fluid back in? I am assuming you cant just use the reservoir if it is drained.
Thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
As soon as you undo the original hose from the slave it will drain itself!
To save some mess use a syringe or similar to drain as much as you can from the reservoir (which wont be too much) and have a drain pan ready under the car.
Easy job... IF you can undo the hardline without rounding the nut
To save some mess use a syringe or similar to drain as much as you can from the reservoir (which wont be too much) and have a drain pan ready under the car.
Easy job... IF you can undo the hardline without rounding the nut
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1
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From: Niagara, Ontario
2004 G35 Coupe - http://infiniti.sewellparts.com/oem-...oupe-2004.html
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 5
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I couldn’t figure out how to remove the retaining clip that holds the clutch line in place. There’s not much room and leverage to get some pliers in there, and even if you could, you can’t see what to grab on to. Flat head didn’t budge anything either. Any ideas?
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