You could have bought any generic moly-fortified grease at your local auto parts store. I bought Valvoline for less than $10.

 

Agreed. I picked up a package of "Dormans Help Products" cv axle grease from Partsource for about 10 bucks. Its actually supposed to be used on the axle joint when you change a CV boot. That was nearly 6 months ago. Click has not come back. I'm pretty sure the grease chemical composition is not a strict requirement ha.

 

i had this problem too. help

 

I remember there used to be a video on infinitihelp outlining the procedure for fixing this but I cannot find it anymore. Anyone know if there was a video or am I crazy? lol

 

Do a search on My350 and enter "Clicking axle fix". There's a great DIY but I'm at work and don't have time to search for you, sorry.

 

^yeah thats right here

I just want to know if I'm crazy about if a video did or did not exist at one point. no worries

 

how do you diagnose if this is a problem you are currently experiencing. Right now, I hear a popping noise when I let up off the brakes, but not sure if this is what we are talking about here

 

^there is a video in the link i posted above.

 

Mine would make the click/pop when I put it into reverse to back out of my driveway. It would also do it when accelerating from a stop. Don't remember anything specifically related to the brakes, but it basically made the noise anytime the car started moving forward or backwards from a stop.

 

thats pretty much how mine is, as soon as i release of the brake to start moving, i hear the pop/tick noise, and its much louder than whats in that video. I guess I'll have to get some grease this weekend, and get to work.

 

I would also say that clicking in that video is not nearly as prominent and loud as my clicking. Anytime i go from reverse then slightly move forward and repeat it drives me nuts. I will be fixing mine this weekend and will report back. Also I plan on just using the Valvoline SynPower grease but will be replacing all nuts and bolts.

 

Thanks to all for all the great info. I did this yesterday. It took me forever, but that's nothing new.

 

Also did mine this past weekend and the clicking is gone! w00t w00t. some words of advice from doing this is that removing/re-installing was the hardest part. I found that if you unbolt the sway bar link bracket which is attached to the frame by 2 bolts. It makes it 100x easier to get that axle in and out of there.

 

in that DIY guide it says to put the wheel back on and put the car down, then undo the axle bolt...but how would you do that with the wheel on?!?


Step 1:
Lift rear of car with jack, remove lugs and wheel.

Step 2 (if applicable):
Remove wheel spacer. Cotter pin will not come out if left on.

Step 3:
Remove Cotter Pin. Use pliers to straighten the long, bent end and slide out.

Step 4:
Put wheel back on and tighten lugs.

Step 5:
Lower Car to ground, Start engine (for brake assistance), apply brakes. This will prevent the car from moving when you go to step 6. If you don't apply the brakes the torque you apply will only spin the axle instead of unscrewing the nut. You may not have to put your car on the ground but there is so much force being applied you can rock the car enough to push it off the jacks.

Step 6:
Using a breaker bar, 32 mm axle socket, and extension/cheater bar/pipe remove the axle nut. It's on there tight! Use a beefy enough breaker bar and long enough pipe and it will come off. If you use a smaller breaker bar it can sheer the end off as shown, like I said, it's on there tight...

Step 7:
Raise car, place on jack stands, remove wheel. (Some remove the caliper and brake rotor, I completed the service without performing this step and didn't have any issues).

 

^you would remove the center cap from the wheel and from there would have access to the nut while the wheel is on. I was able to remove the nut from just using the e-brake and did not have to put the wheels back on.