...

 

^^^ relevance???? that has nothing to do with cutting MAF wires...

yes, ignorance is bliss... that's the only thing you've posted that is accurate and makes sense...

oh, and before you babble about your "assumptions"... Athon never said anything about cutting MAF wires, so why are you quoting him? (oh yeah, the ignorance is bliss part - my bad)

now I'm over the 30 seconds on you...

 

Wait, how do you intercept the maf signal for the emanage w/o cutting the maf wire to the ecu??

I'd also not that any plug/play harness for any piggy like the UTEC also involves lengthening all the wires including the maf wire to the ecu.

 

not by cutting MAF wires at the sensor... which is the entire point of the OP... and which is what I said would help many wire tucks... and which no one has ever shown pics/vids/or in person having done "successfully"...

keep gasping (I mean grasping) Jeff...

 

Wait, what technical difference does it make WHERE the maf wire is cut????? That make no sense at all.

Toll = cutting soldering ecu wires including the maf signal wire (which is the REAL point here) and involves a longer length of wires.

UTEC harness = no cutting BUT there are now at least 2-4 more contact points in the maf signal line AND a longer length of wire.

Here is a typical custom wire splice into an UTEC. This one is for a maxima VQ3.5 ecu. I'd note the ecu connector color.


Before you get all huffy and puffy about it not being a G or Z harness, this is how all patch harnesses look for the G/Z in the fact that there are now extra contacts and a longer run on all ecu wires INCLUDING the maf.

Who's the ignorant one now?

 

still hasn't changed...

 

uh you blind or something? LOL

Wait, I just realized you dont have the technical knowledge to even accurately reply to my post. You didn't even know the MAF wire has to be cut to splice in a hard wired piggy back ecu?

 

Jeff, if you were truly confident in all that you keep posting, it would be real simple to prove your point - and make it clear to all that say "don't cut MAF sensor wires"... You would post a vid of you yourself doing so... its simple right?

Of course this will never happen because you aren't confident in what you are professing at all... you are an internet student - you spend your day scouring the internet for information that you never apply to real work applications...

Therefor you are not what I consider to be a "reliable source"... you are no different from linche saying "it can be done cause I say so"... or "I did it" (with no vid, pics, etc)...

So continue on Jeff... but none of your internet research addresses this post:

 

Why would I do unnecessary cutting to my wiring when my argument is technically sound above? Especially to convince one person? THAT my friend makes no sense.

What you are proposing as proof really makes no sense.

What you are concluding as to why I don't want to cut my harness makes no sense.

What would actually make sense would be a techncial discussion that contradicts my argument above. Something present company is apparently ill-equipped to do.

 

^^^ one person??? I can post no less than four people in the last week or so saying it in various threads... and if I wasted as much time scouring the internet as you, I could post boatloads of people saying "Do Not Cut MAF Sensor Wires"...

In fact, you and linche are the only people I've seen saying otherwise (in a G35 site regarding this car)...

Carry on Jeff, you still haven't validated yourself as a "Reliable source"...

Facts in this post will never change:
https://g35driver.com/forums/4798740-post98.html

 

You haven't validated yourself as a legitmate source to debate with in regards to this maf wire discussion. But keep doing the sidestep shuffle in order to avoid addressing the technical questions poised to you. I just want to see how far off the reservation you will go in order not to actually answer any of them. They are not tricky, difficult or designed to do anything but address the technical question poised to us.

 

Jeff92SE,

You're absolutley right and I agree 100% with all your responses.

The only thing I really asked was that OC35 provide a list of people, he says he knows, who had the problems after their MAF was cut, and what corrective actions they took to resolve whatever engine problems they had after they cut their MAF wiring. Such a basic question, but the answers can provide valuable insight to what was really going on after the MAF cut.

If OC35 has so much experience in this modification and knows all these people who have done it and had problems, I don't know why he continues to side-step this question.

Anyways, lets get back to talking about more important things - like $5.00 chips that can give you 50+ HP!

 

^^^ I said there are boatloads of people who say "don't cut it"...

please have facts straight if you are going to attempt to quote me and reference my statements.

 

The UTEC patch harness does exactly this (lengthening the sensor wires). All of them actually.

 

Okay, lets get the facts straight and settle this once and for all. Claims have been made that you can "mess" up the MAF signal by lengthening or shortening the wire. Well, this is absolute hogwash, and the data presented here (from the actual MAF sensor being used in the G35) will clear that up. These are facts gentlemen.

1. Firstly, lets look at the time constant of the MAF. Basically, for any sudden change in air pressure, it will take one timeconstant (15ms) for the change in output voltage to reach 63% of its final value. Just using this timeconstant, you can see the output variation of the MAF falls within 1kHz. Thats basically DC, therefore, wirelength will HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO AC (Frequency) EFFECT on the output signal of the sensor. This is a VERY SLOW sensor in otherwords.

2. Secondly, lets look at the output impedance of the sensor and input impedance of the ECU. This is important, because its going to tell us EXACTLY what happens to the sensor voltage if you start adding or reducing wirelength.

Firstly, looking at the schematic diagram of the MAF sensor, you can see its basically the ouput of an op-amp (amplifier) The ideal output impedance of an op-amp is zero ohms, but in practice, this is usually a bit higher Its basically the voltage on the rail (which in this case is divided down to 5V, and the output current capability of the op-amp. If we look at the datasheet, the maximum input current is 0.1A. Looking through the divider, the maximum output current is also 0.1A. Using ohm's law, V=RI you can see that R = V/I = 5/0.1 = 50 ohms. So the output impedance is 50 ohms.

Now looking at the G35 Tech Manual for the ECU, the input impedance specification for the MAF is >10kohms.

So now, we basically have a sensor with output impedance of 50 ohms interfacing an ECU input port with an input impedance of at least 10k ohms. What this says, is that you can vary the length of the wire by a HUGE amount and have virtually no changes to voltage the input to the ECU. Okay, so lets try some math.

We can look at the circuit as a voltage divider with 5V at the top, a divider made up of 50 ohms and 10k. The output voltage as seen by the ECU would then be the voltage between the 50 ohm and 10k resistor.

Lets assume the MAF wire is 30 AWG wire. Now, we all realize the MAF wire is really on the order of about 16AWG, but the 30 AWG wire is WORST CASE and has much more ohms per foot than the 16 AWG.

30 AWG wire has about 100 ohms per 1000 ft. Thats basically 0.1 ohm per foot.

Now lets say we add 10 feet of wire to the MAF sensor harness.

We now added 1 ohm to the circuit.

Originally we had: Vout = 5V (10k/(10k+50)) = 4.9752 Volts

Looking at the divider now we have: Vout = 5V((10k)/((10k)+50+1))

We have 4.9746 Volts

So by adding 10 feet of wire to the sensor, the sensor voltage varied by only about 0.001V.

So you can see, even if we added 10 feet of wire (assuming ultra-thin 30AWG wire), the resulting variation is only about 0.001V. Not even close to change anything whatsoever.

SUMMARY: The cutting, or lengthening of the MAF sensor wires will have absoultely ZERO effect on the output voltage as seen by the ECU.