Ummmm no. What are you smoking seriously?

 

Only if you push the interval to 35k miles. And on most engines you can not push that with Amsoil per tests I have seen. Even 15k was pushing it.

 

I wonder even if you can push it to 35k, would you still be saving any $? In order to do that, you have to get the oil analyzed. That cost is around $20. A few tests and you could be running all new oil

 

no... I was referring to post # 67... the one 2 of us below it were commenting on.

4drmadness is cool – I’ve tried to help him with some things… my post wasn’t directed at his question – it was the way the dude in #67 responded that compelled me to post what I did.

 

That's true. I never thought about that. So it is actually more expensive to run Amsoil than other fluids and changing them every 6k-7500.

 

you were wrong Jeff... I was at body shop dealing with some stuff for my car... just got back on here....

as for not quoting - I didn’t for 2 reasons: 1) it seemed quite clear since the 2 posts below him were obviously regarding his post and 2) I was tying not to call the guy out too blatantly, I actually mentioned it happening is other threads from other products... but since there was confusion with the way it read - I stated it quite clearly above. And I think anyone that paid attention to what I mentioned would agree.

 

I knew who you meant. But he didn't.

 

This is one of the craziest threads I've seen in years....35K miles on one change
of oil? I don't care what kind of oil you use it gets dirty and wears out. And
the most absurd post was changing your oil too often damages your engine.
Do members make comments like that just to stir the pot or are they just flipin
retarded? If you use quality synthetic oil/filters changing it every 3K to 5K
miles will just prolong the life of you engine. Doesn't matter if it's Mobil 1,
Royal Purple or Red Line (what I use) you engine's going to love it! (I approve
this message)
Gary

 

so much for finding out the most superior oil, lol

 

you need to follow this thread: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

Its a lot of reading... but if you want real answers, thats a good place to start.

 

Your NA and in CA. Not to much in terms of severe conditions except for heat. You choice will depend on how much you are willing to spend and what your oil change intervals are. If you do 3-4-5k changes, almost anything will perform good. Stretch these intervals out and you have some researching and some intial oil analysis to do before finally deciding.

 

Well a simple statement of facts to help the conversation has drawn some heat! Here's some more...my Name is Nick, I do sell Royal Purple, I am a Master Tech, Owned a couple of Shops over the years including Grimm Performance in Costa Mesa that worked on Nissan and Infiniti as the specialty. I have Raced 280z's, built many street and race cars. I have a Toyota 1995 Corolla with 438,000 miles on it. I also have worked with donation cars (over 1,200 in ten years) having to get old dog's with over 200,000 miles in many cases to run and service needy families again. After working with Red Line, Swepco and Valvoline products for years in racing Z's and Formula Fords...Royal Purple is ALL I use in ALL cars young, Old, race or street.
I'm pushing back on credibility claims a bit, I know I'm new to the thread...but I did not list names, solicitation info to make sales. I chimed in because the comments were random and non specific and negative towards the products. Those of you that are seriously looking for oils need the truth.
Mobil 1 and Amsoil are great products...won't go wrong or hurt an engine. RP is a notch better.

Someone will surly bash this, but the RP proprietary additive package includes extreme pressure agents not found in the other oils. It's there trade mark difference. That gives the friction reduction that gains HP's and MPG's. It also increases resistance to burning through guides and rings because the film strength makes the oil tenacious.

Final thoughts about oil changes and start ups...oil filters usually have rubber check valves that help keep oil IN the filter. Also the filters are not mounted upside down, so drain backs to the pan after shut off do not happen. An oil change or filter change does require the oil pump to bleed the air out and you get a momentary dry start. The oil film on the bearing surfaces are the only protection. A worn cam train (lifters) will clatter until oil pressure pumps them back up.

If you have lifter clatter...try RP no joking or exaggerating, the noises will go away. It's the film strength no magic, just different from other oils. The benefits will last the duration of the oil change, which I do at 6,000 mile intervals.

I service G35's and they all run on RP. Again...did I give my address and marketing info? I am truly just trying to help you looking. Think about it...if you reduce friction in the engine, trans or rear ends...it will take less power to turn, run cooler and wear less. Less friction means more HP, more MPG less stress so more miles with less break downs from wear.

Ok fire away, maybe I have helped someone. Maybe fueled the angry few.

 

^^^ I doubt you are angering anyone (not me anyway)… however, I don’t give much credence to posters that are limited in their contribution – you are not posting from a G35 enthusiast point of view, you are posting from a RP vendor perspective.

If someone with zero posts on this forum copied/pasted a Royal Purple advertisement to make a point, it would be no different IMO.

No offense to you as a person – I don’t know you, but I’m sure you are a fine fellow.

 

The UOAs show enough wear issues that most would stay away from RP. RP will work fine, but it does cause more wear than other oils and it is not as good as other oils especially if you want to push it longer. There is a ton of evidence and tests on the net that prove this.