not sure about the belt issue, as i replaced the oems with ones that fit.
Never had a squeal or any problems.

 

Yep, that's the same issue I had with my 3.0 VQ, but from idle to 3000rpms, but the 3.5 VQ has a bit more torque so it's bogging effects are probably not noticed as much. What I really didn't like was the stop and go driveability. it took a lot more concentration on normal take off and making a smooth 1-2 shift. The 1-2 shift could be downright jerky if the rpms weren't modulated right. With an auto, it probably wouldn't be as noticeable.

As for belt tightness and the water pump, you don't have much to worry about because the VQ water pump is driven off the timing chain, not the belt.

A lightened flywheel will cause even worse low rpm driveability however it won't compromise engine reliability because it is not an OEM damper. The OEM crank pulley performs that duty.

 

It sounds like you guys didn't get the install right. I hardly noticed any effect at all on drivability after doing just the pulley, so maybe you overtightened your belts or something? It just revs faster now =)

Our pulleys and flywheels are super heavy, mainly to eliminate noise because this is a luxury coupe and not a race car. You can lose a good deal of weight in those areas and not affect drivability much at all. Hundreds seem to be doing just fine after the mods so I would check your belts again or have a mechanic do the install.

 

There's really not much to installing an UDP. Loosen the tensioner, remove the crank bolt, slide the pulley off, pry out the crank seal, install new crank seal, and install everything to spec along with the correct belt deflection. I never had any odd noises and I noticed the engine did rev quicker, especially in neutral. A lot of people pass on the $7 crank seal, but I feel it's a good measure to reduce any chances of an oil leak in the future because who wants to be messing with that crank bolt which is one there with about 140 lb/ft.

 

First off Dude we have a few up on you.
we know how to work on ower cars and understand what it takes. Copbait
you can pay your way. Do you understand whats going on here?

 

Well, of the hundreds of feedbacks I have read on pulleys, you are in the 1% group that had a bad experience with them. So I guess there are always exceptions to the rule, and you just happened to be one of them. That is my understanding

 

Its ok with me that you like this mod. Its not for me because it makes no sense when I lose drivability. I do know this This mod will not help a 6speed car with the gearing we have with the 6mt. 50%of the gearing is for 100 plus mph driving in this car. There is nothing to be gained here. This car is not designed to be drag raced. Enjoy your ride. Dennis

 

uh, no production car in any dealer lot was designed to be drag raced.

I always love those sweeping general statements that everybody seems to glance over and accept as credible.

The car wasn't designed to run on aftermarket wheels, accept aftermarket stereos, forced induction, LED map lights or a/m plenums.

That is why they call it modding.

-T

 

So ted whats your point. The fact is nothing here makes this car faster but the ground wires. There are no facts here and no dynos that prove nothing.
Here are the best mods ,light wheels and tires, and ground wires. Ok lets speed a lot of bucks for headers. Oh quess what There is nothing there.
Its real safe to say that somebody that built this car knows what they are doing. Its your call buddy. I will tell you what lets put a spacer on the intake and make 20 hp what a joke. A bone stock 2004 will beat a 2005 in the 1/4 mile. Because of its driveabilty. On a open track a 2005 6mt will kick some butt. The mods here are just a joke. Quess what Inifiniti did there home work. Crawford only poses some hope.

 

Oh, and btw, I have installed all mods myself except for the exhaust welds and tint of course, with just a pair of rhino ramps. I was suggesting the mechanic for y'all

 

IF you dont like to mod then get out of the tech's & mods forum. You are wasting time and giving out bad, misinformation and seem to have a bitterness from past mistakes or something. This place is turning into a punk fest.

 

Quoted from GeePasta (all bold mine): The fact is nothing here makes this car faster but the ground wires. (wow! how come your buddy Dave isn't jumping down your throat on that one....I thought it was a "worthless mod")

There are no facts here and no dynos that prove nothing. (I will agree with you here- there are no facts in your posts and there are dynos that prove something, so you are right on both counts)

Here are the best mods ,light wheels and tires, and ground wires. (I guess cats, plenums, nitrous, blowers, turbos are right out, then)

Ok lets (let's) speed (spend) a lot of bucks for headers. Oh quess (guess) what There is nothing there. (You can speed and quess all you want, but there are real gains to be had here)

Its (It's) real safe to say that somebody that built this car knows what they are doing. (The only accurate statement so far, even if the tenses don't match: "..knew what they were doing.")
Its (It's) your call buddy. I will tell you what lets (let's) put a spacer on the intake and make 20 hp what a joke. (Where did you see those claims? In your English class?)

A bone stock 2004 will beat a 2005 in the 1/4 mile. (Anyone seen any slips, or is this continued speculation and conjecture?) Because of its driveabilty. On a open track a 2005 6mt will kick some butt. (See above)The mods here are just a joke.

Quess (Guess) what Inifiniti did there (their) home work. Crawford only poses some hope. (But they make neither grounding wires nor "light wheels and tires")

Not that it made it any less painful to read, but I had to make a few corrections to try and tie together the nonsensical ramblings.

You have caused enough trouble here; for the sake of those actually interested in engaging in thoughtful discussion, please abandon all hopes of anyone caring even the slightest about what you or DaveB have to say. Now go. Shoo.

 

Part of this assumption is correct.

What isn't correct and could be dangerous is the statement ".... one bolt which is one there with about 140 lb/ft."

The G35 isn't a Maxima and some folks need to learn this. According to the G35 service manuals, the crank pulley bolt tightening procedure is as follows.

1) Pre-torque the crank pulley to 29-36 ft/lbs.
2) Tighten the bolt to 60-65 degrees (angle tighten)*

* This is often referred to as "one flat". This procedure actually stretches the bolt and often requires 300-400 ft/lbs of torque to accomplish.

Gee Pasta:
I was merely pointing out that posters on G35driver have recently tended to drop generalized comments, such as "This car was not designed to be drag raced". This is such a ludicrous statement, it had to be called. Of course the car was not designed to be drag raced. But neither were the 4000+ lb behemoths of the 50's or VW bugs. Drags have always been run what you've got, and do what you can to make it go faster. (NHRA comps not withstanding). There's nothing special about our cars that would keep any true-blooded runner to stop playing with, other than their comfort level and ability to recover in the event of CATO. If you do not have the comfort level, do not allow your fears and top 10 search results for info to override the spirit of the "Technical Mods" section.

And if the Crawford holds promise (I have a v5), why wouldn't a Kinetix have the same glimmer of hope for adding some HP? Even though we know that every brand's {enter product} total HP claims are inflated... again - it's the sum of your mods. A spacer, although I do not have, nor dyno'd with, is just adding the extra air space from the "bottom" as opposed to altering the top of the plenum. I personally welcome the experimenting and am happy to watch people develop new ideas. some work, some don't.. that's the nature of the game. It's just a car, not your Central Nervous System. As far as Dynos, sorry buddy, but I've got the paper to back it up... done in public against many 350z's and G35's. My ride always raises eyebrows at dyno days and at the strip.

Drag racing is not always about how fast you go. It's also about consistency. That's why i can compete against, and take down, MOPARs and Mustangs in my 5AT sedan. That's why the guy in the tower at LACR will shake my hand and say "nice driving kid" as he hands me a trophy. With skill, you could even place with a stock minivan. <-- refers to Bracket Racing, before folks get all bent on this paragraph.

I was thinking of correcting your best mods list: (edited for spelling)
But, at this point, if folks want to follow your very simple recommendations and believe that there are no facts here, then they are most welcomed to follow your train of thought. Headers, no gains... LOL.

Ask me what the best mods are, and my answer will be...what do you want to do with your car? Then I'll ask you how much comfort level and experimentation money you have. Then we'll start discussing the pros/cons of everything out there and develop a suggested timeline/order for your project. Then, maybe we'll get around to some parts. (repeat process, individually, for every inquiry)

-T

(it's the SUM OF ALL YOUR MODS)

 

I'm just stating the specs from my Nissan FSM for the 96 Maxima. It reads pre-torque to 29-36 ft/lbs and then tighten the bolt to 60-65 degrees, or "approximately 140-160 ft/lbs". On my friends air tool set to the lowest setting (~200 ft/lbs), it untorqued the crank bolt instantly. That leads me to believe it's 140-160 ft/lbs like they say. The 3.5 5th gen Maxima owners have the same exact spec in their FSMs though Nissan stopped stating the 140-160 ft/lb figure, probably because most Nissan shops don't keep 120 ft/lbs+ torque wrenches handy because of their limited use on passenger vehicles. BTW, the 3.5 block, crank, pistons, rods, etc are the same ones used across the 02-04 G/Z/Altima/Maxima line.

What applys to the Maxima "can" apply to the G. There's no fancy wizardy going on here. It's called cost savings.

 

You're correct in that the two engine's use a similar procedure.

Reference: Page EM-30 - 1996 Maxima Service Manual

"32. Install crankshaft pulley to crankshaft.
* Lubricate thread and seat surface of the bolt with new engine oil.
a. Tighten to 39-49 N-m (4.0-5.0 kg-m, 29-36 ft-lb).
b. Put paint mark on the crankshaft pulley.
c. Again tighten by turning to 60-66 degrees, about the angle from one hexagon bolt head corner to another."

Try as I might, I could not find any reference to a torque value. IMO, if the bolt tighten torque was meant to be less than 250 ft/lbs (maximum value of most 1/2 drive torque wrenches), the factory would have specified a ft/lb value, not an angle tightening (or bolt stretch procedure).