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PULLEY UPDATE miles/problems?

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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 11:43 PM
  #151  
GEE PASTA's Avatar
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From: So Calif / Utah
Originally Posted by SoCalTed
You're correct in that the two engine's use a similar procedure.

Reference: Page EM-30 - 1996 Maxima Service Manual

"32. Install crankshaft pulley to crankshaft.
* Lubricate thread and seat surface of the bolt with new engine oil.
a. Tighten to 39-49 N-m (4.0-5.0 kg-m, 29-36 ft-lb).
b. Put paint mark on the crankshaft pulley.
c. Again tighten by turning to 60-66 degrees, about the angle from one hexagon bolt head corner to another."

Try as I might, I could not find any reference to a torque value. IMO, if the bolt tighten torque was meant to be less than 250 ft/lbs (maximum value of most 1/2 drive torque wrenches), the factory would have specified a ft/lb value, not an angle tightening (or bolt stretch procedure).
Ted It boils down to Crank this bad boy down big time. Dam its a bitch to get off. Your a good man ted. Love your posts. We need to work on timming in the VQs
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 12:27 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by GEE PASTA
Ted It boils down to Crank this bad boy down big time. Dam its a bitch to get off. Your a good man ted. Love your posts. We need to work on timming in the VQs
Haha, ain't the truth. I installed an UDP on another Maxima and I didn't have air tools available and there's no way I would have been able to bust that crank bolt just by myself with an 18" breaker bar if it were on with 300-400 ft/lbs. I can't think of any car or light truck component that requires more than 180 ft/lbs. When it comes to these crank bolts, tighten them as hard as you can with a breaker bar and you'll be fine.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 02:49 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by DaveB
...
When it comes to these crank bolts, tighten them as hard as you can with a breaker bar and you'll be fine.
Sorry but this is HORRIBLE advice. If you want to risk breaking or stripping your crank bolt then go for it. Maybe you used all your strength putting it back on, but I could have definitely turned it more and I'm not a hulk or anything (6' 190lbs)

UR recommends using the factory procedure, which is a pre-torque and then a 60 degree rotation. There are marks on the crank bolt for a good reason. Not many people have 250 ft/lb torque wrenches sitting around.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 12:58 PM
  #154  
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From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by copbait
Sorry but this is HORRIBLE advice. If you want to risk breaking or stripping your crank bolt then go for it. Maybe you used all your strength putting it back on, but I could have definitely turned it more and I'm not a hulk or anything (6' 190lbs)

UR recommends using the factory procedure, which is a pre-torque and then a 60 degree rotation. There are marks on the crank bolt for a good reason. Not many people have 250 ft/lb torque wrenches sitting around.
I'm 6' 1" 185lbs and very athletic so we're basically the same size. There is NO WAY I could break that hardened steel crank bolt with just my strength and an 18" breaker bar. You know as well as I that trying get 60-65 degrees additional rotation is nearly impossible with just a breaker bar. Once it gets to about 50 degrees, it's gone about as far as it will go.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 01:20 AM
  #155  
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by DaveB
I'm 6' 1" 185lbs and very athletic so we're basically the same size. There is NO WAY I could break that hardened steel crank bolt with just my strength and an 18" breaker bar. You know as well as I that trying get 60-65 degrees additional rotation is nearly impossible with just a breaker bar. Once it gets to about 50 degrees, it's gone about as far as it will go.
Not if you're doing it the easy way with leveraged leg presses, which can easily exceed 150 ft/lbs...
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 01:40 AM
  #156  
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From: Scarborough
Today, i got the UR Crank Pulley set on.
1. Nice diet for my G. Those stock pulleys sure weight much heavier then UR crank.
2. Extra HP gain??? I dont think so~ Smoother though.
3. Look? Yup red pulley looks cool~ Too bad they are under there~
4. Noise? Not much noise. I think stillen exhaust and nismo CAI covered it all. lol
5. Bumpy ride? Yes, already sporty with sport suspension

Overall impression:
My G lost lots of weight~
My wallet also lost a lots of weight~
And everything stay the same~ It's allllllll cool
Gotta love it, because modding car feels really good
Its becoming a hobby of mine...Not about the HP anymore, because i believe that none of it is gaining any HP~
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 07:26 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by subrobo
...Not about the HP anymore, because i believe that none of it is gaining any HP~
You may want to reconsider your modding course then. There are some really good N/A mods out there and you can DEFINITELY increase your performance by 15-20% over stock while staying the NA course. Don't get discouraged, just read the 3 independent dyno day threads (soon to be a fourth one ) and go from there.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 07:18 PM
  #158  
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yeah, i know about the NA mods that can give 10-15% while staying NA...But i believe G35 is sexy and fast enough~ Im sure you'll agree with me on this one
 
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 12:34 PM
  #159  
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From: Mississauga, ON Canada
Pulley

Originally Posted by subrobo
yeah, i know about the NA mods that can give 10-15% while staying NA...But i believe G35 is sexy and fast enough~ Im sure you'll agree with me on this one

Your saying that Crank Pulley is kinda waste of money? Have you tried the dyno and see the difference? I am thinking of getting one as well and i need to know right away because I am getting a good deal on the crank pulley pretty soon.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 02:17 PM
  #160  
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I am told they show a 6 - 8HP diff on the Dyno.

I installed mine yesterday, and I can tell you there was a noticable improvemnt in 0 - 60 times.

(I don't claim the device to be accurate, but it is consistent, so the difference between chnages is accurate)
I have a G-Timer from Escort, I do all my test runs when it is ~60 degrees on the same stretch of road, with about 1/4 tank of gas, and the car at temp(drive for 15 minutes to insure all is at real temps, avoid idling to prevent any heat soak, and the tires wramed up).

Prior to the Pulley (see my sig for mod list) my best 0 - 60 5.75 sec, but I only got it once, my consistent time was 5.81 sec

After the pulley yesterday I had to wait till this morning cause it was hot here yesterday... this morning at 62 degrees - all other parameters the same.
I ran 3 in a row at 5.68, 5.67, 5.68 seconds

So the simple answer is it was a useful power mod,

The install took about 60 minutes (if you are prepared, and I used an air ratchet for removing and replacing the lower engine shield/cover)

Big props to E_K for his genius on how to loosen and tighten the crank nut on an Automatic.

Having wished I had gotten the whole pulley set, so I just ordered the Alternator and idler pulley to complet my set.....

It is a sickness I tell you, a sickness
 

Last edited by Sickone; Apr 3, 2005 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:57 AM
  #161  
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From: DC/VA/MD
sickone,
where did you obtain the info regarding loosening the crank nut from E_K?? Is there a hidden DIY somewhere??!! This is on my list of next 'to do' mods but install is one thing im debating...be grateful if you could post a link to hints/instructions!!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 12:10 PM
  #162  
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From: SoCal (high desert)
Here ya go,

His approach to solving the loosen and tighten are really very good given the options
Even though I have Air tools, and could have gone that way - but you'd have to take out the fans and radiator and grill, and.....

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26215
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 01:51 PM
  #163  
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From: DC/VA/MD
thanks buddy!!
 
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