PULLEY UPDATE miles/problems?
Originally Posted by copbait
It's pretty amusing that some people continue to claim that the stock crank pulley is some sort of holy balanced piece that maintains engine balance. Yea, that's why they use a cast piece of metal and glue on a rubber ring that doesn't even go all the way through the pulley. Yea sure that argument holds up LOL
Believe what you want, but you and a bunch of others are wrong. Look and study this link. It's a 3000GT and has a cross section of the the OEM crank pulley. The VQs is very similiar as are most other late model crank pulleys you'll find on just about any car/truck. There is a thin elastomer ring that is sandwiched inside the OEM pulley. This ring actually adheres two pulley's together to form one.
http://www.3000gtvr4.com/pages/underdrivepully.html
On the G/Z crank pulley, one pulley fits within the other and small pulley is pressed inside the large pulley. Only on the back side can you see the elastomore ring. The lip of the inside pulley covers the front of the elastomer ring. That's why you can't see the ring coming through. Years ago before elastomer rings, CADD, and CNC machining, tolerances were high and motors had to be fitted with big dampers. Today the technology is such that dampers aren't as noticeable and they can be packaged nicely within the pulley.
Here's some pictures of the elastomer ring that failed on a 3.0 VQ Maxima.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=crank+pulley
If the ring doesn't go all the way through, then how did this pulley fall a part into two peices? On the Maxima pulley, you can see the elastomer ring on the front of the pulley, but not on the back side because of a lip on the larger outside pulley. Regardless, the ring goes all the through and is clearly shown.
Why would Nissan use this elastomer ring design on the 3.0-3.5 VQ Maxima/Altima, but would just "glue" a piece a rubber to the front of the G/Z pulley for the hell of it when the Maxima/Altima/G/Z share the same long block?
That elastomer ring has a purpose: It's a damper. Sorry to get so worked up about this, but I want potential buyers to be aware that they are giving up some torsional dampening Nissan felt was necessary for the VQ and that many guys on this site and at Unorthodox Racing are plain wrong about the intended purpose of the VQ crank pulley.
I could care less about oil analysis and such. I owned one of these pulleys and believed the hype because I didn't know any better years ago. My car wasn't faster/quicker, didn't gain any power on the dyno, had more vibration especially in the higher rpms, worse driveability because the rpms dropped quicker between shifts, the car bogged on launches, and the motor was louder and sounded strained in the upper rpms. However I didn't have any problems with the UDP either. No gains equals that thing came off. Oddly, the next week I laid down a best at the track because launching was so much easier.
Here's the best debate we've had about the UDP:
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=damper
Last edited by DaveB; Mar 16, 2005 at 01:36 AM.
Originally Posted by DaveB
FYI, it's not a balancer, it's a torsional damper.
Believe what you want, but you and a bunch of others are wrong. Look and study this link. It's a 3000GT and has a cross section of the the OEM crank pulley. The VQs is very similiar as are most other late model crank pulleys you'll find on just about any car/truck. There is a thin elastomer ring that is sandwiched inside the OEM pulley. This ring actually adheres two pulley's together to form one.
http://www.3000gtvr4.com/pages/underdrivepully.html
On the G/Z crank pulley, one pulley fits within the other and small pulley is pressed inside the large pulley. Only on the back side can you see the elastomore ring. The lip of the inside pulley covers the front of the elastomer ring. That's why you can't see the ring coming through. Years ago before elastomer rings, CADD, and CNC machining, tolerances were high and motors had to be fitted with big dampers. Today the technology is such that dampers aren't as noticeable and they can be packaged nicely within the pulley.
Here's some pictures of the elastomer ring that failed on a 3.0 VQ Maxima.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=crank+pulley
If the ring doesn't go all the way through, then how did this pulley fall a part into two peices? On the Maxima pulley, you can see the elastomer ring on the front of the pulley, but not on the back side because of a lip on the larger outside pulley. Regardless, the ring goes all the through and is clearly shown.
Why would Nissan use this elastomer ring design on the 3.0-3.5 VQ Maxima/Altima, but would just "glue" a piece a rubber to the front of the G/Z pulley for the hell of it when the Maxima/Altima/G/Z share the same long block?
That elastomer ring has a purpose: It's a damper. Sorry to get so worked up about this, but I want potential buyers to be aware that they are giving up some torsional dampening Nissan felt was necessary for the VQ and that many guys on this site and at Unorthodox Racing are plain wrong about the intended purpose of the VQ crank pulley.
I could care less about oil analysis and such. I owned one of these pulleys and believed the hype because I didn't know any better years ago. My car wasn't faster/quicker, didn't gain any power on the dyno, had more vibration especially in the higher rpms, worse driveability because the rpms dropped quicker between shifts, the car bogged on launches, and the motor was louder and sounded strained in the upper rpms. However I didn't have any problems with the UDP either. No gains equals that thing came off. Oddly, the next week I laid down a best at the track because launching was so much easier.
Here's the best debate we've had about the UDP:
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=damper
Believe what you want, but you and a bunch of others are wrong. Look and study this link. It's a 3000GT and has a cross section of the the OEM crank pulley. The VQs is very similiar as are most other late model crank pulleys you'll find on just about any car/truck. There is a thin elastomer ring that is sandwiched inside the OEM pulley. This ring actually adheres two pulley's together to form one.
http://www.3000gtvr4.com/pages/underdrivepully.html
On the G/Z crank pulley, one pulley fits within the other and small pulley is pressed inside the large pulley. Only on the back side can you see the elastomore ring. The lip of the inside pulley covers the front of the elastomer ring. That's why you can't see the ring coming through. Years ago before elastomer rings, CADD, and CNC machining, tolerances were high and motors had to be fitted with big dampers. Today the technology is such that dampers aren't as noticeable and they can be packaged nicely within the pulley.
Here's some pictures of the elastomer ring that failed on a 3.0 VQ Maxima.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=crank+pulley
If the ring doesn't go all the way through, then how did this pulley fall a part into two peices? On the Maxima pulley, you can see the elastomer ring on the front of the pulley, but not on the back side because of a lip on the larger outside pulley. Regardless, the ring goes all the through and is clearly shown.
Why would Nissan use this elastomer ring design on the 3.0-3.5 VQ Maxima/Altima, but would just "glue" a piece a rubber to the front of the G/Z pulley for the hell of it when the Maxima/Altima/G/Z share the same long block?
That elastomer ring has a purpose: It's a damper. Sorry to get so worked up about this, but I want potential buyers to be aware that they are giving up some torsional dampening Nissan felt was necessary for the VQ and that many guys on this site and at Unorthodox Racing are plain wrong about the intended purpose of the VQ crank pulley.
I could care less about oil analysis and such. I owned one of these pulleys and believed the hype because I didn't know any better years ago. My car wasn't faster/quicker, didn't gain any power on the dyno, had more vibration especially in the higher rpms, worse driveability because the rpms dropped quicker between shifts, the car bogged on launches, and the motor was louder and sounded strained in the upper rpms. However I didn't have any problems with the UDP either. No gains equals that thing came off. Oddly, the next week I laid down a best at the track because launching was so much easier.
Here's the best debate we've had about the UDP:
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=damper
Dave you are dead right. Can you belive how so many people do not belive In the truth. This thread is based on nothing but butt dyno. Trust me I can not belive nobody can understand what is going on here. This stuff is been around for 50 plus years. Its almost a joke. People open your eyes.
Dennis
I forgot to add that the chances of your VQ failing because of an UDP are about nill. The VQ crank is very beefy and short, massive 4-bolt mains keep crank stable, and the mains themselves have a one peice girdle. This is one of the most overengineered lower assemblys I've ever seen.
Does the UDP make gains? The dynos I've seen for the Maxima 3.5 VQ and the multi-pulley setup for the 350Z suggest about 2-4whp.
It's your call, but at least have all the facts and hear both sides of the story before buying anything. Even well-respected "Hydrazine" is dead set against the UDP because he has the same understanding about the OEM crank pulley.
Does the UDP make gains? The dynos I've seen for the Maxima 3.5 VQ and the multi-pulley setup for the 350Z suggest about 2-4whp.
It's your call, but at least have all the facts and hear both sides of the story before buying anything. Even well-respected "Hydrazine" is dead set against the UDP because he has the same understanding about the OEM crank pulley.
Originally Posted by DaveB
I could care less about oil analysis and such.

Would the "and such" be additional empirical evidence? No wonder we're not getting anywhere, folks.
If the claims were true that the crank pulleys on our engines are torsional dampers, and that removing them will cause increased bearing wear, then where is even the slightest shred of evidence of this happening? There is none.
All engine oil analysis so far has disproven your case, there is no validity in these claims as they apply to this engine.
This is merely a chance for people to strut their "advanced scientific knowledge" and throw around impressive sounding terms, and sound like they are somehow an expert on the subject. Too bad they can't back any of it up with anything from real world experience, until then it's just classroom chatter...
All engine oil analysis so far has disproven your case, there is no validity in these claims as they apply to this engine.
This is merely a chance for people to strut their "advanced scientific knowledge" and throw around impressive sounding terms, and sound like they are somehow an expert on the subject. Too bad they can't back any of it up with anything from real world experience, until then it's just classroom chatter...
Last edited by copbait; Mar 16, 2005 at 01:00 PM.
Right on Chicago
As soon as someone comes up with evidence of a single failure, then we'll open our eyes. LOL
People who love to hear themselves talk that never tried it and have nothing to show for thier argument should try the more generalized threads...
As soon as someone comes up with evidence of a single failure, then we'll open our eyes. LOL
People who love to hear themselves talk that never tried it and have nothing to show for thier argument should try the more generalized threads...
Originally Posted by ChicagoX
Interesting....the one piece of real, verifiable scientific data out there and you "could care less"......... 

Also, why do all you guys think that the oil analysis is somehow going to tell you something? The lack of a crank damper won't necessarily cause the bearings to wear, especially on a reciprocating assembly with very stout 4-bolt mains and gridle, but that's not to say that a crank can fail without warning.
It's amazing how many of you think this mod is so great and effective because of you butt dynos and the oil analysis, yet not one of you has proven that this thing makes any useable gains on the dyno or at the track. Isn't the point to a power mod to prove that it works? It seems that a lot of people believe it works simply because they spent $300, put it on their car, and Joe Blow in Chicago "felt" great seat of the pants gains therefore it has to work.
I'm done with this thread. You guys believe what you want to believe and I'll believe what I want to believe. Atleast the other viewers will have both sides now.
Last edited by DaveB; Mar 16, 2005 at 02:05 PM.
(shake stick here)
Ted's Dyno's and comparisons.
My day at Stillen Day compared to illG35 and Bosssho
My at Churches G35driver Dyno Day and a ton of G's with various mods
caveat 1: I know dynojets and Dynopacks are different (the latter about +10-15hp over a dynojet). I know all dynos, even the same dynos are different betwen pulls, climate conditions and operator skill/procedures. But then again, someone has to post up Dyno #'s, right. Otherwise I'd just be another one of those guys who posts without the experience and/or data to back it up.
caveat 2: dyno results are dependent on the sum of all your mods and the Grace of God, and a great hair day.
=========
I'm just curious, since the [enter brand name pulley here] is purported to cause damage to the VQ engine, but I see no signs of it... what are the symptoms? When will it occur (I'll take a 25 to 75k mile guesstimate... narrower if you can). I would like to begin gathering the empirical evidence/data now. Tell me, what am I looking for? A sudden and complete CATO? If this does occur, what am I looking for in the post-mortem to signify UDP as the root cause?
I am serious and would love to solve for dreamworld. Help me.
-ted
My day at Stillen Day compared to illG35 and Bosssho
My at Churches G35driver Dyno Day and a ton of G's with various mods
caveat 1: I know dynojets and Dynopacks are different (the latter about +10-15hp over a dynojet). I know all dynos, even the same dynos are different betwen pulls, climate conditions and operator skill/procedures. But then again, someone has to post up Dyno #'s, right. Otherwise I'd just be another one of those guys who posts without the experience and/or data to back it up.
caveat 2: dyno results are dependent on the sum of all your mods and the Grace of God, and a great hair day.
=========
I'm just curious, since the [enter brand name pulley here] is purported to cause damage to the VQ engine, but I see no signs of it... what are the symptoms? When will it occur (I'll take a 25 to 75k mile guesstimate... narrower if you can). I would like to begin gathering the empirical evidence/data now. Tell me, what am I looking for? A sudden and complete CATO? If this does occur, what am I looking for in the post-mortem to signify UDP as the root cause?
I am serious and would love to solve for dreamworld. Help me.
-ted
Last edited by SoCalTed; Mar 16, 2005 at 03:16 PM.
I do not yet have an UDP on my G, but I had one on my 1990 300ZX TT, and before and after dynos showed 8 rwhp gain with the UDP.
In addition, my Z still ran strong at 195k miles, while running 14 psi of boost (stock is ~9 psi) without an engine rebuild or anything of the sort.
Admittedely, the VG30DETT is a different engine than the VQ35, but they share some things in common.
I have a UDP for my G on order, I am obviously already convinced. But you are more than welcome to keep whatever opinion you want to keep.
Dave
In addition, my Z still ran strong at 195k miles, while running 14 psi of boost (stock is ~9 psi) without an engine rebuild or anything of the sort.
Admittedely, the VG30DETT is a different engine than the VQ35, but they share some things in common.
I have a UDP for my G on order, I am obviously already convinced. But you are more than welcome to keep whatever opinion you want to keep.
Dave
It's amazing how many of you think this mod is so great and effective because of you butt dynos and the oil analysis, yet not one of you has proven that this thing makes any useable gains on the dyno or at the track. Isn't the point to a power mod to prove that it works? It seems that a lot of people believe it works simply because they spent $300, put it on their car, and Joe Blow in Chicago "felt" great seat of the pants gains therefore it has to work.
Last edited by SixFive; Mar 16, 2005 at 04:48 PM.
Originally Posted by SixFive
Go get a life and quit telling us we can't figure out our own cars improvement because you blew your wad on a maxy that sucked a$$ after you were done with it.
Yeah, it only went about 3mph faster in the 1/4 mile than your G and gained over 22mph in the last 1/8 mile
It was a slacker with 3 NA bolt-ons.
Originally Posted by caelric
I do not yet have an UDP on my G, but I had one on my 1990 300ZX TT, and before and after dynos showed 8 rwhp gain with the UDP.
In addition, my Z still ran strong at 195k miles, while running 14 psi of boost (stock is ~9 psi) without an engine rebuild or anything of the sort.
Admittedely, the VG30DETT is a different engine than the VQ35, but they share some things in common.
In addition, my Z still ran strong at 195k miles, while running 14 psi of boost (stock is ~9 psi) without an engine rebuild or anything of the sort.
Admittedely, the VG30DETT is a different engine than the VQ35, but they share some things in common.


