This a straight forward modification and it should only take about 2 hours using a lift like I did. I am using the VQ35HR and VQ37VHR oil filter stud because it's shorter than the stock oil filter stud so that the oil filter bolts directly to the block itself and not to the oil warmer.
First loosen the AC compressor belt. The AC compressor is bolted to the block through a cast aluminum bracket that covers half of it and there is a few bolts holding it, I think 4 or 5 total. If it doesn't drop down and move freely than there is still a bolt that needs to come off. Take the bolts off the oil warmer hardline and there are 2. One in the front and one that is between the AC compressor and block. Pull off the coolant hose off the bottom of the passenger side coolant pipe and cap it off. Take off the rubber hose that connects to the thermostat housing on the driver side and cap that off. Take the oil filter off and use a wrench or socket to take off the filter stud. Once it's loose the oil warmer and hardline and rubber lines drop down. Put new filter stud and oil filter back on. Refill coolant and bleed. I didn't have to bleed mine since I did the coolant bypass.

Also want to thank Knock at Dyno Proven LLC for letting me use the lift and the help.

 

What's the purpose of this mod? BTW it's an oil cooler, not oil warmer.

 

^ Clean up the engine bay and remove unnecessary lines

I did it on my car because I didn't want to run 3 sandwiches on top of each other

(OEM Oil cooler, Sandwich to adapt oil pressure/Temp sensors and aftermarket oil cooler)

 

It cleans up the engine bay and reduces oil temps. It's not a cooler because the coolant that runs through the warmer never reaches the radiator to cool down. It's hot coolant that's been through the engine only.

 

So what is the oil temp during cruise now?

 

Please excuse my question, but you said it was called an oil filter stud, I tried to Google such, but all I got in return was the word oil filter instead ? So my question is then, what is the VQHR oil filter stud really call? an oil filter

 

+1. Is it worth the time or are we only looking at a couple degrees change?

 

In addition to reducing oil temps and clutter it also saves a little weight. The warmer is there to reduce cold start emissions and bring the oil up to operating temp faster. It also clogs after a few years and needs to be replaced.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-pa...5_716_728.html

 

Thanks man for the info!

 

Hey andrei did you ever get the pipes figured out? if not here you go

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180563173749&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

 

Mine are all welded and ready to go but it's a lot of work to replace them when the coolant caps I put on work just as well for now.
Those look good thought. I need the Pathfinder rear pipe though and there is a guy on my350z who fabricates the passenger side pipe from scratch.

 

You're going to let me have that ROM file with the 10,000 RPM Rev limit?

 

Thought I read somewhere that yours were leaking??? maybe Im wrong but you should pressure test them before the paint. And those rubber plugs are a huge risk. The thermostat should have a real plug in it. And another thing you should look into is a bleed valve on the thermostat. Moroso makes a brass bleed valve specifically for bleed situations like this. Late mike