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DIY Cam Position Sensor Easy Version

  #391  
Old 02-13-2018, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JNav View Post
CAM POSITION ORING (BANK 2- DRIVER SIDE LEAKING) Cant find anything about the O ring just the sensor itself.
if u just need the o ring orielys will sell u just an o ring. take ur old one so they can measure it
 
  #392  
Old 02-24-2018, 05:27 PM
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Thank you

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread. Replaced my driver side sensor today, not too difficult. Don't know how people manage to do this without taking the intake and throttle body off. You must have very long skinny arms. Not sure if this is normal, but the wires going to the sensor have very little slack, was kinda awkward getting the sensor off of it. Other than that no problems other than my clumsiness, probably took me way longer than it should have, but it's done!. Assuming the new sensor doesn't crap out on me, probably saved a few hundred dollars. Thanks!!

Suggestion, it might be nice to point out that the hex bolts on the throttle body are 5mm. Had to go buy a 5mm hex attachment for my socket wrench.
 
  #393  
Old 09-28-2018, 08:30 PM
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Anyone know if the new sensors Nissan switched to (metal and slightly more circular) for newer G's still work in an older one that came stock with the flatter plastic ones?
 
  #394  
Old 09-29-2018, 11:28 AM
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Yes they work, there was a revision to the sensors the last letter of the part number designates revision. A, C revision were all plastic shrouds, the new D revision is metal that's flattened on the sides and those are the part numbers supersede any previous part.

Any revision sensor will work, I just went with the revision that was the cheapest.

Driver side (or if rev-up equipped, driver intake / passenger exhaust) 23731-AL61A/C/D easily identified with the ANGLED connector

Passenger side (or if rev-up equipped, driver exhaust / passenger intake) 23731-6J90A/B/C/D easily identified with the STRAIGHT connector

Personally I went with a revision A for one sensor and a revision B sensor for the other because I found OEM Nissan ones available for a grand total of under $100 for all 4 that I needed (rev-up engine) and didn't feel like spending 4x that amount to have the latest D revision sensor.
 
  #395  
Old 10-03-2018, 04:19 PM
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Infinity G35 sedan with sport package
Corrected release harness method

So actually you do not squeeze the tab at all. The entire green tab needs to be pulled towards the sensor. The entire green section will slide forward locking into place. The sensor will them release.
 
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  #396  
Old 10-07-2018, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Personally I went with a revision A for one sensor and a revision B sensor for the other because I found OEM Nissan ones available for a grand total of under $100 for all 4 that I needed (rev-up engine) and didn't feel like spending 4x that amount to have the latest D revision sensor.
Care to share where you got the sensors? That's $25/ea and I've never seen them so cheap.
 
  #397  
Old 10-07-2018, 07:15 PM
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You just have to watch eBay, you can find deals if you're not in a hurry.
 
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  #398  
Old 11-12-2018, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryan Drescher View Post
So actually you do not squeeze the tab at all. The entire green tab needs to be pulled towards the sensor. The entire green section will slide forward locking into place. The sensor will them release.
Hello all to everyone who has been so helpful in this thread!! Also got the P0345 error and had a hard time starting the car.

After reading this whole thread, decided to attempt going in "blind" from the passenger side to the driver side sensor. Found the sensor and could confirm that the locking section (can't see but supposed to be green) slides "back and forth" towards the sensor. By pushing down hard, I could get it lock in place - that SHOULD mean the tab is released (right?) But I have a hard time pulling the connector off the old sensor.

I know it varies from car to car and also from one hand to another (I do not have a vise grip pinch!) But if anyone has done it, please comment on how hard the connector needs to be pushed/rocked/wiggled in order to shake it loose from the sensor. I tried pushing from the bottom, rocking it left and right and wiggling it up but it just would not bulge. Any trick, tip or advice would be much appreciated!! Thanks!
 
  #399  
Old 11-12-2018, 10:23 PM
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I'd be careful doing too much wiggling since these sensors have been exposed to a lot of heat in that firewall area and the plastic is likely pretty brittle. If you were to break something, you'd have to pull a lot of parts out to have enough access to fix it. I did mine recently on an 03, and once I got them unclipped they came out very easy.

The pictures I attached below are pulled from various other threads regarding this. They may have illustrate better what everyone means by pushing the connector tab towards the sensor rather than pushing down like you would on any other connector.



 
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  #400  
Old 11-13-2018, 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by johndom450 View Post
I'd be careful doing too much wiggling since these sensors have been exposed to a lot of heat in that firewall area and the plastic is likely pretty brittle. If you were to break something, you'd have to pull a lot of parts out to have enough access to fix it. I did mine recently on an 03, and once I got them unclipped they came out very easy.

The pictures I attached below are pulled from various other threads regarding this. They may have illustrate better what everyone means by pushing the connector tab towards the sensor rather than pushing down like you would on any other connector.


Thank you, John! Yes, the pics and other comments on this thread explain the rather un-usual way the "clip" works in this connector. I also found close-up pics of the connector itself which shows the tab and how it will release when push "down" (see attached.) My problem is that when pushing down, the clip would stay in the down position (rather than bouncing back up) which I thought meant it was released. But the connector remained tight. I saw other comments, like yours, that when released, the connector should come off easily. So I guess I did not push down enough

Funny thing is I could hear a click when I pulled the sliding clip up! I was afraid of breaking anything too as I could there was little give in the cables attached. Will have to try pushing the sliding clip down harder...

Thanks again!
 
  #401  
Old 11-13-2018, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by newnewcomputer View Post

Thank you, John! Yes, the pics and other comments on this thread explain the rather un-usual way the "clip" works in this connector. I also found close-up pics of the connector itself which shows the tab and how it will release when push "down" (see attached.) My problem is that when pushing down, the clip would stay in the down position (rather than bouncing back up) which I thought meant it was released. But the connector remained tight. I saw other comments, like yours, that when released, the connector should come off easily. So I guess I did not push down enough

Funny thing is I could hear a click when I pulled the sliding clip up! I was afraid of breaking anything too as I could there was little give in the cables attached. Will have to try pushing the sliding clip down harder...

Thanks again!
I understand what you're saying now about the pushing down. That's funny, usually a click does mean it's unlocked and ready to pull. Good luck!
 
  #402  
Old 02-02-2019, 09:47 AM
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How do I know which sensor I need to change? I'm not getting any codes with my OBD2 and my idle is rough. I've changed plugs and cleaned/tested the MAF... pretty sure its a cam sensor.

I have a rev-up with 4 sensors... I don't want to change all of them. Is my only option to have Infiniti/Nissan diagnose with a Consult3?
 
  #403  
Old 02-02-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by NYT View Post
How do I know which sensor I need to change? I'm not getting any codes with my OBD2 and my idle is rough. I've changed plugs and cleaned/tested the MAF... pretty sure its a cam sensor.

I have a rev-up with 4 sensors... I don't want to change all of them. Is my only option to have Infiniti/Nissan diagnose with a Consult3?

i have a rev up as well the way I see it is either a code is going to pull for them or one or your just going to replace both cam sensors if your gonna take a guess at it. Mine pulled codes and I replaced them both as well as my crank sensor on trans
 
  #404  
Old 04-19-2019, 09:02 PM
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Adding to this, I've had a p1111 for some time now that has had me going crazy. Most recently was accompanied by a p1273 lean shift monitoring. Car has its moments of rough idle however 2k rpms and up and it goes away.
What has thrown me for a loop is that it has its days that it runs beautifully.

I've changed vtc sensor and tested resistance on both, I have not check my galley and it would not surprise me if gasket is gone however most recently car started having an occasional hard start where it would take it's time cranking then it would start.

These are sensors I've completely ignored and wouldnt surprise me if they are my issue.

My question is the only test available is resistance through the terminals seems to be the only answer between if its good or bad. Has anyone recorded actual measures and compared them to the new sensor?
I would like to go brand new or get some from a donor as I do not trust even $35 cam sensor.

Even though cam sensors generate their own code, have people fixed their p1111 with cam sensor replacement?

Thank you.
 
  #405  
Old 05-24-2019, 09:39 AM
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Wanted to share my story on this thread as well - hopefully it will help a G owner down the road. https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...e-driving.html

I must admit that even after reading the majority of this 20+ page thread, it still took me a while to remove the faulty sensor from the clip. It made perfect sense after watching this YouTube video from ya boi Duwop who demonstrates how the clip works on his G35.
 
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