DIY Cam Position Sensor Easy Version
#346
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Damn are you not a belieber lol, I called infiniti of Tacoma at fife, nissan of the east side, auburn nissan and kuni infiniti..... do you want their numbers too?? All located in washington state
Every dealership and state provide different prices, that's why I was originally going to go with OC infiniti but I needed my car up and going and would not risk driving it with a bad sensor not knowing when my car would breakdown. I know my buddy that works at a local distributor for centric, stop tech and others and he also carries other parts. Sold me the sensor for $1 over their cost for the part.
My post was more for whomever needs to do this that they do not need to remove everything like originally posted. But do as you wish. Good luck to everyone.
One last thing Tian your base on clash of clans sucks bawls..... hahaha I'd wreck you lol
Every dealership and state provide different prices, that's why I was originally going to go with OC infiniti but I needed my car up and going and would not risk driving it with a bad sensor not knowing when my car would breakdown. I know my buddy that works at a local distributor for centric, stop tech and others and he also carries other parts. Sold me the sensor for $1 over their cost for the part.
My post was more for whomever needs to do this that they do not need to remove everything like originally posted. But do as you wish. Good luck to everyone.
One last thing Tian your base on clash of clans sucks bawls..... hahaha I'd wreck you lol
#347
Haha, I used to have front stop tech st40 BBK. Sold it awhile ago, that I purchased from him under 1k. I'll post a pic of Tian base..... or you can visit him... he's in the clan Caedite Eos... his name in unknwn
#348
Help Needed
I am in the process of changing the bank 2 cam position sensor and really messed up. When I attempted to disconnect the harness from the sensor, I pulled the 3 wires out of the connector. I don't know which wires go into each of the slots. There is a yellow, black, and a red wire. Any help would greatly be appreciated!
#349
#352
Which one did you change at 110k? Bank 1(Passenger Side) or Bank 2(Driver side)?
Is it true that most of the times, it is the passenger side which goes bad?
#354
Well, we have a 2005 G35x .. about 120,000 miles .. it now takes longer to start – cranks about 3-4 sec where it USED to start immediately. It turns on the 3 dash lights and gives a code of P0340. (I have a code reader) I can clear the code, and it starts the same WITHOUT the “Check” lights ONCE … but the code is there … it has to have TWO starts – or RARELY it will “shudder” or cut out for an instant – and THEN set the check lights.
I DID order a Camshaft Position Sensor online and install it. The passenger side one – with the straight connector. Not a hard job at all, except that I have big hands.
THE PROBLEM … is still exactly the same ?? Seems exact symptoms !! So could the new sensor be bad? In the same way? OR am I reading stuff wrong and did I change the wrong one??
*** I DID see all sorts of prices on Camshaft Position sensors !! $137 at the Infiniti store to as cheap as $15 online !! I got a $35 one from A1Auto.com. JD
I DID order a Camshaft Position Sensor online and install it. The passenger side one – with the straight connector. Not a hard job at all, except that I have big hands.
THE PROBLEM … is still exactly the same ?? Seems exact symptoms !! So could the new sensor be bad? In the same way? OR am I reading stuff wrong and did I change the wrong one??
*** I DID see all sorts of prices on Camshaft Position sensors !! $137 at the Infiniti store to as cheap as $15 online !! I got a $35 one from A1Auto.com. JD
#355
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GreenPenguin (04-26-2016)
#358
Well, re my post of 4-26 … where the NEW ($35) sensor didn’t work. My bad !! In 2 or 3 places people discuss the damn green connector. I had broken that a little in getting it off – and there was a piece of plastic keeping it from seating fully (there’s a rubber gasket in there) and making good connection. I pulled the new sensor out and measured resistances compared to the old bad one … there IS resistance in the new (GOOD) one. Had to use a small and sharp pair of dikes and “chew away” the broken part of the green connector. NOW it plugs in fully !! (I used a few wraps of Scotch 88 electrical tape to seal and hold in place) THEN – with the connector in place, I was able to get the CPS back in. (Real easy after you’ve done it 3 times !!) Cleared the codes, crank her up and starts immediately. Runs fine – with the $35 sensor from A1auto.com. JL
#359
Same with the little 10 mill bolt. Wrap that with a fine wire 5 or 6 wraps -- get it started in a ways and unwrap the safety wire. JL
#360