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DIY Cam Position Sensor Easy Version

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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #331  
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Originally Posted by Chef904
Hi all, thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread! Helped me a lot with the fix.. However, I am experiencing yet another problem with my 2006 G35 Sedan. I had just replaced my Camshaft Sensors Bank 1 and 2 with OEM ones. Car was running great and was able to take it out of town. Now, 2 weeks and about 1000 clicks later, the dreaded Service Engine Soon, VDC and SLIP lights are back on. The car's having a hard time starting again just like before both sensors were replaced. All symptoms are basically the same as when the car first started having problems - only difference was the car died on idle earlier today. Any idea on what might be causing this? Perhaps the crankshaft sensor has gone bad too? Thanks!
Probably the 3rd sensor, there are 3 position sensors almost identical. 2 up in the engine bay and 1 under the car. The harness that goes to the 3rd one is also notorious for failing. I replaced the harness and sensor at the same time, but the harness is deep in the manifold. replace your 3rd sensor this is probably the only problem.
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 12:39 PM
  #332  
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Thanks again!

Originally Posted by Silver tiburon
Here is a picture of the driver side/bank 2 cam sensor. Notice the connector is slightly angled. This is the only difference between the bank 1 and bank 2 sensors. Good information to know if you are purchasing a new sensor or are confused on which sensor goes where.
Thanks again Silver Tiburon...If you or anyone else is still checking this thread. I had to replace the driver side sensor last year. Well lucky me the day after my birthday the passenger side went out. I just got back from a big box auto parts store and after much confusion, I quickly identified which part thanks to this post! I slept too many times since last reading it!
So yeah turns out bank 1 which is on the left side as you're working on the car from the front is listed as "right side" in the stores computer! I was almost sold the wrong part! The picture of the engine block clearly showing the straight connector on the passenger side is what really clears up the fog if anyone else is facing this conundrum! I'm doing a couple of YouTube videos on this now. So wish me luck as I go grab my 10mm 3/8" drive socket with a 3" extension and a flexible ratcheting wrench close by just in case
 
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Old May 7, 2015 | 12:08 PM
  #333  
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From: Columbia, MO
So I've got the P1084 code
Driver exhaust cam sensor is what I think it is. Best place to purchase one?
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 10:59 PM
  #334  
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Originally Posted by UR2EZ
Probably the 3rd sensor, there are 3 position sensors almost identical. 2 up in the engine bay and 1 under the car. The harness that goes to the 3rd one is also notorious for failing. I replaced the harness and sensor at the same time, but the harness is deep in the manifold. replace your 3rd sensor this is probably the only problem.

Thanks. I hope that will fix the problem. The issue seems to be getting worse now. At first, it would only happen once in a while so I put the repair on hold. Honestly at my witts end trying to decide if I should keep the car. I love my G but it's at the age where a number of problems are starting to pop out. Now, my car would die on idle when im slowing down approaching a stop light or slowing down for a bumpy road. Happened 3 times today. My car would shut off, crank for a bit before starting then have all 3 warning lights on again. I park it for a while, then VDC and slip would go off but service engine light would remain on.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 12:17 PM
  #335  
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how to detach the connector

I am having an awful time trying to detach the connector from the cam shaft sensor, I press in the little button and it locks in place, but the sensor does not release. I press the senor back in a bit then the button clicks back into locked position. Any ideas?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 01:06 PM
  #336  
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Originally Posted by mr popo
I am having an awful time trying to detach the connector from the cam shaft sensor, I press in the little button and it locks in place, but the sensor does not release. I press the senor back in a bit then the button clicks back into locked position. Any ideas?

Alright, I finally got it disconnected, had to use a small electrical screw driver to depress two small teeth inside the connector before it would let the sensor go.

Also getting to that 10mm bolt is a lot harder than the pic showed, I have a metal rod poking up right behind it (its for some sort of fluid, but has a bolted down cap), so a ratchet with an extension doesn't work.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 05:42 PM
  #337  
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From: Oscar the Grouch's Neighbor
So I did this last night.... easiest thing next to an oil change. Removing everything like intake, throttle body etc is not necessary. If reach around from passenger you can feel the sensor and bolt (obviously if you know what your looking for). It's a 10mm bolt holding the sensor, I used a 10mm wrench with a ratchet type head. Came right off and the electrical plug was easily removed as well. Slid new one in bolted down the bold and reconnected. Reconnected the negative on the battery did ecu reset and bam runs like a champ again.

BTW I didn't use oem sensor cause them biches were 200+ a pop after tax. I used a sensor from a vendor cause a homie got the hook up. Good luck to everyone doing this, hopefully it's as easy to you as it was to me.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 10:19 PM
  #338  
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^u should learn to use dealer online prices
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 10:26 PM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by vq35dedriver
BTW I didn't use oem sensor cause them biches were 200+ a pop after tax. I used a sensor from a vendor cause a homie got the hook up. Good luck to everyone doing this, hopefully it's as easy to you as it was to me.
Exaggerate much, more like $85 a pop
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 11:20 PM
  #340  
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Nissan sensors are a bit over 100 here in Canada.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 02:32 AM
  #341  
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And we all kno Canada suffers the worse mark ups lol
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 09:20 AM
  #342  
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From: Oscar the Grouch's Neighbor
Nah no exaggeration, I called 2 nissan dealerships and 2 infiniti dealerships. Got +/- 5 dollars from 175-195.

I was gonna use OC infiniti for the sensor it was 86 plus shipping but I needed the sensor right away. G is my DD.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 12:56 PM
  #343  
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Which dealer is It? Ima go on their site n confirm wat Ur saying
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 10:52 PM
  #344  
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From: Oscar the Grouch's Neighbor
Damn are you not a belieber lol, I called infiniti of Tacoma at fife, nissan of the east side, auburn nissan and kuni infiniti..... do you want their numbers too?? All located in washington state

Every dealership and state provide different prices, that's why I was originally going to go with OC infiniti but I needed my car up and going and would not risk driving it with a bad sensor not knowing when my car would breakdown. I know my buddy that works at a local distributor for centric, stop tech and others and he also carries other parts. Sold me the sensor for $1 over their cost for the part.

My post was more for whomever needs to do this that they do not need to remove everything like originally posted. But do as you wish. Good luck to everyone.

One last thing Tian your base on clash of clans sucks bawls..... hahaha I'd wreck you lol
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 11:01 PM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by vq35dedriver
I know my buddy that works at a local distributor for centric, stop tech and others and he also carries other parts. Sold me the sensor for $1 over their cost for the part.

My post was more for whomever needs to do this that they do not need to remove everything like originally posted. But do as you wish. Good luck to everyone.

One last thing Tian your base on clash of clans sucks bawls..... hahaha I'd wreck you lol
First...i need your buddies contact info so I can get some parts for a $1 over cost. I need powerslot rotors, stoptech pads and lines along with stoptech fluid.

Second...where is this clash of clans base you speak of?...post pics
 
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