so i looked around all the pages and nothing a few months back i changed my bank 1 passenger ! sensor cleared the codes all good! a few miles of driving my CEL came back on i unplugged the battery and my bank 1 GREEN plug is so easy to move ! seems like i broke it or something but when i disconnect the plug and replug it back in i don't hear the CLICK sound from the plug to the sensor! so when i drive i feel like it moves and makes the CEL come back on..so im guessing since my bank 1 green plug is loose now or damaged that when i drive it gets loose and makes the light come on.. car runs fine but annoys me ! anyway i can buy just the green plug or do i need the new harness?! any ideas please this has me so annoyed

 

Great write up.

 

Check there isn't anything in the sensor you just replaced like a piece of mulch or something. It should have no problem clicking in.

 

Thanks for reply! Seems to be my plug is cracked from Inspecting it anyway to replace it any links?

 

Any green plugs sold seperately that attach to the sensor ? Or whole new harness needed

 

Great write-up and details in this thread, but after reading everything, I'm still not sure if it is the cam sensor that I need to replace.

I'm getting a code P1084: EXHAUST VALVE TIMING VOLTAGE CIRCUIT BANK 2. A couple of others mentioned this code way back in this thread (and I was led to this thread by doing a search on P1084).

I have an '05 Sedan, 6MT, 110k miles. Light came on a couple of weeks ago. Car still seems to run and drive fine, but idles at 1000-1200 RPM instead of 700 RPM or so.

Is a bad drivers side cam sensor likely the culprit of my problem? Seem to find a lot of members getting the P0340 but not the P1084.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

No, fix the code related to the exhaust timing by replacing that electric piece.

 

Not sure. Rockauto.com can find certain parts in the woodwork, but contact a g part out thread!

 

Urbanengineer: Can you elaborate on that please? Electric piece?

 

Buy the sensor ONLY if it's OEM. The autozone ones or whatever are chit

 

So with my my P0340 fault it's saying circuit A what's the difference between circuit A and circuit B

 

If you guys are going to try and fix your own cars, then you should become very familiar with how to troubleshoot the systems on the vehicle. Anyone who can read, can fix cars. You If you have questions, you should always, always start with the factory service manual. Within it, you will find answers to your questions by reading about descriptions of system operations, and step-by-step troubleshooting techniques.

The first thing I suggest you both do is go to this website, and download the appropraite FSM for your car's specific make and model year: http://www.psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/



EWT6MT; I'm assuming you had Autozone or something pull your code with a generic OBDII code reader, because P1084 is not a code that even exists in the FSM. You can look here for yourself: http://www.psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2005/ec.pdf
So, click the link: https://g35driver.com/forums/5765264-post4.html and pull the code manually, like I've been telling people to do all along. If you can't figure out how to do that, then take your car to the dealer, because the aptitude to fix this on your own probably isn't there.

Glikeme; You need to go here: http://www.psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2005/ec.pdf and scroll down to page 297. Rather than regurgitate here, exactly what is says there, just go read. Basically, there are 2 CMP sensors, hence 2 circuits. P0340 is referring to bank 1, circuit 1. You can go to the first page of this write-up for details on distinguishing between the two.

 

Had this issue with my car this past week...
It died on me a few times about a week ago, after i had filled the tank at a gas station i usually dont go to. (figured i had got some bad gas or had some moisture in my tank)

Ran it for another day or 2 and seemed fine but then it died again, and this time my vdc, slip, and service engine light came on.(lights hadnt came on before) I was able to scan it to view the code it set and i had the p0340 code as well.
I ordered the sensor for $71 from my local napa and the issue seems to be gone.
(Glad i didnt drain the $65.00 worth of gas i just put in lol)

The plug on my sensor was stuck and almost impossible to remove so i recommend removing the 10mm bolt and getting the sensor out, while its still plugged in, and getting it up on top where you have more room to work with it rather than chew your wrist up reaching back there lol.

Thanks for the write up! Def helped me.

 

Thanks for the great DIY. Saved me a few hundred bucks and time. Dealer wanted $350! My mechanic wanted $162. I only attempted to replace the passenger side sensor. Driver side might be a mechanic job! I don't really have the facilities to work on my car like that since I live in a condo.

A few tips, definitely get a 10mm gearwrench, it's worth the $15. I got the angled one so it was even easier to get at the bolt. When it's time to work on our car, tie some string to one end of the wrench. You WILL drop it and with the string you can just pull it back up again. My G has that silver metal tube in the way of using a socket wrench BTW.

After speaking with my mechanic, he told me the OEM part was Hitachi so that is what I bought for $50 on Amazon. Dealer wanted $163 and mechanic wanted $112 so there is some great savings right there. When you buy it make sure you buy part CPS0004 with the plug perpendicular to the bolt. I bought CPS0002 which is exactly the same part only the plug is in line with bolt making it nearly impossible to get the wrench on the bolt.

Hitachi CPS0002
Hitachi CPS0004

I absolutely left the clip on when I removed the sensor. Just undid the bolt and pulled it out. There was no way I could get my hands in a position where I could remove that clip before taking the sensor out. I had to use a flat head screwdriver to push the tab down and there was no way I could have done that while it was still installed.

I put the clip on the new sensor before putting it back in but that may have been a mistake. Because of the plug configuration it was hard to get the wrench on the bolt. This may or may not be an issue if you buy the correct sensor. In any case, I think had I left the clip off, I may have been able to use the wrench more effectively. I was only worried that I wouldn't be able to push the clip on fully after it was installed.

One of the best tips on here was to use needle nose pliers to put the bolt back in place once the new sensor is put in. There was no way that I was going to be able to maneuver my hand to get the bolt into position without using needle nose pliers to put it in place. I dropped the bolt once before remembering to use the pliers.

The job is simple, just a little hard to get at physically. Very happy with the result. As someone else on this forum said, maybe it's my imagination but my car seems very responsive and more powerful now. I think this sensor has been going bad for quite some time. I just didn't know what the issue was when my car had those weird power losses in the past.

 

Does anyone know where I can find a paper copy of an FSM