the orielys sensor didnt bring the ses light back, it just made my car run really rough and when id do the idle relearn after the procedure my car would die at startup. that p0011 i believe means u need to change the intake solenoid. all i kno is oem sensors only for me from now on

 

I pulled, cleaned, and tested my passenger side IVT solenoid and its working properly. My car runs and drives fine. At time, it may take a few more spins than normal to start but beyond that all things are normal.

The SES light is on and engine pulls P0011 IVT code now. Cant get the car inspected with SES light on.

 

Usually it takes a few before ses comes on I recommend reset it right before inspection lol

 

sorry for the late reply. The first time was aftermarket since then ive tried 2 oem. After changing the knock sensor and the harness the car runs fine for about 10 minutes. As soon as i start to push it abit (5000rpm) the abs slip and check engine return.

 

Ok, my SES light is out now and has been for almost 100 miles. (yay) My cheapie cam position sensor did put out the SES light as well as the (SES, VDC, and SLIP)and did make the P0340 code go away but later I got an IVT code P0011. The IVT solenoid was clean and working. How do you think I fixed this? I replaced that seemingly fine cheapo cps with an OEM one. How did I stumble upon this bit of wisdom? My Infiniti dealer. There is a relationship between the IVT's and the crank and cam pos sensors.

1. If you are getting either cps bank error code it can be any of the three of them; the driver, the passenger or the crank sensor. When the dealership is chasing these trouble codes and they don't go away after replacing the target code position sensor they usually will replace all three.

2. If you should decide to change the knock sensor and/or harness you have to pull the upper and lower intake plenum and you will have direct access to the throttle body. If you are like me you may break out the carb cleaner and clean the throttle plates. This will likely later throw a P0507 code. In many cases this is remedied by doing the ECM relearn procedure and if successful will put the SES light out.

3. If you buy an OEM sensor, install and reset the ECM and the SES light comes back on later it doesn't necessarily mean the OEM sensor has failed or that it wasn't the sensor in the first place. You need to pull codes again. Once the sensor is communicating properly the ECM has new information to work with and may now report new codes (as I found out).

I truly hope this helps someone. I put up with this light for over a year and was discouraged but finally got it but not without the help of a friend at Sewell Infiniti (thanks Greg Kring!)

 

just got this dreaded problem. ses, vdc and slip lights. after starting back up from sitting, only the ses light remains. auto zone is saying its my drivers side cam sensor. this thread is almost terrifying to read about pulling a code, changing a sensor and then your problem turns into 4 other problems. good lord man

ill have to attempt this soon, hope fully i dont screw anything upand dont get 18 more codes after fix the specified sensor

 

I replaced both of my sensors using after market sensors. The car was throwing the bank 1 and bank 2 cam shaft pos sensor codes. Reset ECU after replacing both and the CEL returned. With 3 new codes P0021 Intake Valve Timing control circuit failure bank 2, P0024 Exhaust valve timing (EVI) control performance fault - bank 2 and P0014 Exhaust valve timing (EVT) control performance fault - bank 1. But I am no longer throwing camshaft pos sensor codes on bank 1 and bank 2.

I've read that the fix can be as simple as changing the dirty oil. Has anyone else thrown no target codes after replacing the sensors. I'm desperate for answers.

 

Whoever designed those PITA clips on the sensors should be hanged! It took me nearly 2 hours to do the passenger side. The clip just wouldnt budge. The driver side should be fun! Anyway, no longer having any issues but Im going to have to do the idle reset soon.

 

the clip is not a pita. its quite simple actually.

 

Had the engine oil flushed and lights came back on. My mechanic replaced both timing sensors and light came back on. I didn't pass smog because of ses light now I have to take the pos back to my mechanic. Love this car and just upgraded to Akebonos but this is starting to make me want to off it.

 

Thanks for all the good info in this thread. I got the passenger side camshaft position sensor error earlier this week. I ordered the parts from an Infiniti dealer online and limped along the rest of the week until I could replace the sensors today. I followed the guidance in the thread and was successful.

I replaced both sensors and decided to remove the plastic "V6" intake shroud along with the throttle body. Some say you don't need to but I need all the room I can get since I have big hands.

The automotive sensor connectors can be hard to work with if you are not used to them but I can see why the are made that way...........once they are clipped on....they won't come off. That's what you want. For me, I found it easier to just remove the sensor bolt with the sensor connector still attached, then pull out the sensor with the connector still on. That way you can rotate the sensor connector around so you can get a good handle on it, then take the connector off the sensor.

Thanks again.

 

Did mine today after getting Autozone to check the code. I could not do the self diagnose of the code for some reason. I also had to but a 10 mm wrench as a few parts were in the way of my socket and 3inch extension. Anyway, I spent $61 on the part and $3 on the wrench set instead of the $250 a local place charged me to do the driver side a year ago. Thx driver members!!

 

i am one of the folks that is having serious trouble removing the wiring clip from the sensor. Tried for almost 2 hours on the passenger side with no luck! I get that you have to push the little latch all the way forwards towards the engine but I can't pull the connector out. If I use too much force the latch will slide back to the locked position.Who's ****ing bright idea was it to put the latch on the bottom of the damn connector? Anyone got any tips on how to easily remove the green connector?

 

ugh u jus push the latch all the way then pull at the same time. it aint that hard

 

Yeah thanks for the advice chief. Now if you got any other advice besides telling people how easy it was for you than I'll love to hear it.