I just installed the one from TrueBlue AutoParts, cost around $30 shipped. All seems good so far,will advise on any issues.

 

bought one from infiniti almost 2 years ago and its gone bad

 

UPDATE: All was good on my cheap cam position sensor but alas, my CEL has returned.

This time throwing codes P0011 and the same P0327 as previous. No other lights coming on like before so I have to think the budget sensor is still working ok. I had just changed oil prior to all this mess. Oil level is spot on, and I did full accelrator pedal computer reset twice. CEL comes on after driving 10-20 miles. No noticeable change in performance, idling, temps, etc.

Was told P0327 (knock sensor) by itself is unnoticeable and won't kick on the CEL so I am focusing on P011 which is defined as Intake valve timing (IVT) performance bank 1.

Probable cause listed as crankshaft position sensor but foot notes say to check other codes first like they may be causing this code. Has anyone replaced an antiknock sensor and had it clear a P0011 code?

 

I have the same problem as you pretty much. I changed my Camshaft position sensor bank2 (bought from infiniti). the car was fine for 3 weeks and now its throwing po345 and po327 knock sensor. It gets jerky while i drive sometimes and stalls sometimes when i slow to a stop.

any info will help

 

So it looks like its not uncommon for the car to throw new codes after changing either cam sensor.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ip-lights.html

Its hard to believe the knock sensor P0327 could be influencing the new code but who knows. I am going by the AutoZone advisement they printed out for me when they pulled the codes. Going by that Im thinking next is knock sensor. It was holding that code P0327 before but not bring up CEL.

On the P0011, probable cause is listed as crank and cam position sensors in that order as possible causes but also says to check other codes first.

Of course the other code is the P0327 for knock sensor. It reads more definititve as
a. open or short condition
b. poor electrical connection
c. faulty knock sensor

Am going to research more but unless I can find my scenario thats where I am going next. My car seems to run perfectly except it might take 1-2 more seconds longer to start than it used to before all this crap happened.

 

PM'd. Looks like I have 2 broken connectors. Where did you get them?

 

[IMG][/IMG]

So I this for the passenger side or drive side cam?

 

I noticed when I was changing bank 1 passenger side, the bolt and the sensor were way too easy to remove. The green harness slip right off the sensor. I'm guessing the previous owner had changed the sensor before. The green harness appears to be missing some plastic which probably explains why the sensor slipped right off. I wanted to test my theory and use the new sensor and see what happens. The car had a hard time starting but eventually started with SES, SLIP, and VCD lights turning on. Previously, I didn't have any lights other than the car dying out. I got it retested and still got the same code p0340. My guess is I need a new harness?!? Any suggestions?

 

does the crank poztion censor or cam position censor cause slight head noise like a slight knocking in the head if theyre malfunctioning?

 

finally got around to changing my passenger side sensor and seems like it got worse. before it would have trouble starting 10% of the time, now its more like 90%. im throwing p0011 and p0300. wondering if i should but the other sensor back in

 

Did you use a aftermarket sensor or oem?

 

the one new one is a true blue sensor

 

Took the car up to 135 and the engine began to sputter. Drove to a autoparts place and it's still reading p0011 and p0300. I'll probly avoid the true blue sensors from now on

 

Did you find any connectors? If so, where did you purchase them? I'm still missing bank 1 connector harness

 

had been getting the 2 lights and dying randomly for a while and finally got around to ordering both sensors (oem) and replacing them this monday. this thread made it easy to do and now she's running better than i remember in a long time.

fyi, i called the local stealership to see what they'd charge for the job and i was quoted $640....parts were around 150 shipped and took about an hour to do

thanks again for this thread