I had so much trouble trying to remove the harness too. I decided to use a monkey wrench and took me couple of seconds. Check out the crappy pic with details..

 

I've been unsuccessful in removing the bolt with all possible angles. My last shot is to find a 10mm wrench and go straight at it. What a pain this has been. I can almost get a 3 inch extension with 10mm attached flush on it but I can't get it to budge. The caution hot rod is right in line with the dang bolt.

 

Ur having trouble removing the 10mm bolt? Are u turning it the right way? The bolt must be on tight. I just had to loosen it up just a little and used my fingers to do the rest. Try using a wrench to reach the bolt.

 

Thanks Silver Tiburon for this write-up. I hope to replace and test both cam sensors today!

 

This is why computer people don't work on cars, just dropped the 10mm wrench I just bought down behind the motor and now need a long magnet to get it back. Can't drive the car til then. This is exciting.

 

Update: victory. Got the 10mm wrench back with a telescope magnet, got the bolt off, but the sensor was stubborn as all hell. Had to use vice grips and destroy the old sensor but the new one is in and my car started up immediately.

Thank you so much for this write up, saved me $100.

 

I feel for you, I have an 05 G35X sedan and I am doing the same repair this weekend. Driving home today from the pistol range and the car did a slight 'jerk' forward like the tranny gave for a sec, and the 3 lights...SES, VDC, SLIP...so went to autozone, threw the 'magic code' of 0340, both sides!
So I got pass side off, replaced it, and dropped the wrench somewhere underneath. I am putting the car on ramps tomorrow to get the wrench out, then will tighten the pass side, then do the driver side. My car has 118k miles on it. Last october the 'petentiometer' went, other than that the car has been fine as I have owned it since day 1. I always do my own maint, except the tranny and anything that needs the car to be up in the air...I will report back once done.
One point, the green clips need to have the 'top' portion pushed towards the 'sensor' and the sensor will pop off the end. Just slide the top part of the green sensor as hard as you can. Funny how these seem to be happening 'now' on the 05-06's...

 

update:
I got 1000+ miles, since I replaced both sensors on my 05 g35x.
Car runs great!! All the lights are gone(CEL, SES, VDC, SLIP), and the car doesn't stall and the rpm doesn't go crazy any more!!!
Easy fix!!!!!

 

All done! Replaced the sensors...now how do I get the SES light off? Unplug the batt?

 

i did the gas pedal reset but yea you can disconnect the negative terminal on the battery

 

I guess I should have included this in the beginning since most people would probably need to reset the ECU after the repair.

Basic ECU Reset

Procedure:

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 seconds.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.


Note: After you perform step 3, the CEL will start flashing. The series of flashes will actually display codes if any are present.

 

OK, well I went back to autozone and they lent me the reader again and I cleared the codes. Now good to go, and car feels great!

 

This thread is awesome! Im so happy that i now know whats wrong with my car and how to fix it! no more stalling or rpms going crazy! That **** was getting dangerous with the engine randomly turning off! Thanks for this thread!

 

I have replaced my sensors BOTH twice now with parts from Rock Auto. Both times they tripped the CEL after about 5 miles. I am returning them for a refund.
I will buy Nissan parts next. BUT my question is how to properly test the sensor.

With a Ohm Meter I have had my original sensor show Ohm resistance on pins 2 and 3 together but nothing on Pin 1 and 2 or 3.

So my question is: What resistance should I get off pins 1-3 to check the sensor for correct operation?

I don't know what I'm looking for. They all read the same as above except the last one that showed resistance on only one pin and open on all the others.

Who know what to do to test?

 

^ Lol, just need to more careful man, dont want to be dropping a screw driver on the mobo!

There should be a panel its on underneath just undo that. Or I guess try the long magnet trick.

If you have an old Hard Drive that you dont want , take it apart and use its magnets they are pretty strong.