I'm a little confused about what terminals you tested, but I can tell you how to do the test correctly. No matter what terminals you are testing, you are simply looking for any resistance reading. The resistance will vary according to many factors (temperature, connection quality, sensor wear, your meter etc.). All this test is really meant to check for is an open circuit within the sensor. If your meter is reading anything but open then your sensor is passing this test. This doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is positively good. If the sensor is reading open while you are correctly performing the test, then it is definitely bad. Sadly however, if the sensor is passing all the tests, it doesn't definitely mean it is good. If in doubt, I would just replace it depending on what codes and symptoms you are experiencing. Also make sure you get the polarity right when you are testing the terminals. Make sure the positive tester lead goes on the correct terminal and vise versa.

Test 1.)
Positive meter (red lead) lead goes on terminal #1. Place the negative lead (black lead) on terminal 2. Your meter should read a resistance value NOT open.

Test 2.)
Positive meter (red lead) lead goes on terminal #1. Place the negative lead (black lead) on terminal 3. Your meter should read a resistance value NOT open.

Test 3.)
Positive meter (red lead) lead goes on terminal #2. Place the negative lead (black lead) on terminal #3. Your meter should read a resistance value NOT open.

Like I said above, you are simply looking for a closed circuit, not a specific resistance reading. See the diagram below for the terminal numbers and more testing information.



Just out of curiosity, what codes do you currently have?

 

I know you got yours done, but for the benefit of others who may read this thread in the future:

The best tool to remove the bolt with is a 10mm GearWrench. It's VERY worth the investment.

 

You guys doing the driver side without removing anything.... you must have really small hands. I don't think there is anyway in hell I can get my hands back there and I'm not a big guy 5' 11 165. Passenger side is super easy.

 

I did my sensors today and its AMAZING!!! I cleaned my throttle body a few days ago(it was filthy) and i got minimal response gains. but after doing my sensors a few hours ago, its like a BRAND NEW engine!!! @187xxx miles i restored god knows how much torque! i barely tap the gas and my baby GOES!!! My sensors have been messed up for so long tht i think my car forgot how to use its VDC lol when i hit the gas from a stop the tires screech. granted I need to re-learn my car(pre-cam sensor replacement my car was so doggy i had to push the pedal down A LOT to get a response from the car) but im hella happy w/ the results!!! do not delay! do it today!

you gotta set your ratchet aside for this one bro, i went to autozone and bought me a $8 10mm wrench, took a few seconds longer but I got it loose, then i undid the bolt by hand once it was loose enough. I also had my telescoping magnet(<$2@autozone) on the bolt while i was undoing it incase the bolt were to fall.

i got this pic Evan78, but i took a pliers and squeezed the clip inward(the arrows on the picture) then the sensor came out with ease. DO NOT pull on the wires, my buddy did his 350z at the same time and he pulled a wire out of the harness :/ we soldered it back it but it took a while.




Reference: https://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/...hts-all-4.html Post #55

Error codes:
P0340 = bad passenger side cam position sensor (right hand side)
P0345 = bad driver side cam position sensor (left hand side)

 

Is this code seen here referring to the same sensors in this thread? I know this is a broad question but what might have cause the sensor to suddenly fail? thanks!

 

No, I think that code is referring to an O2 sensor. However, if your cam sensor(s) haven't been changed, then you should probably begin making plans to change them anyway.

 

So these are the exact same sensors located by the cats/test pipes? I have berk HFCs now. Before I had megan TPs which caused CEL but I used non foulers and reset the ECU so all was good. Now i have SES light after putting on HFCs WTF:bang head: was just wondering what could cause this. at the moment i have just a bit of exhaust leak (JIC y-pipe meets mid-pipe) but this is after the O2 sensor...should it cause that code P2A03 or is that from something else? throttle response is horrible at high RPM 60+mph, i can feel the difference. any ideas

 

Man the o2 sensors really do hate to be touched...pretty sure you need to replace one, common occurrence lately.

 

From what i heard, these sensors are before the cats. BANK 2 SENSOR 1 & BANK 1 SENSOR 1. Am I correct? does anyone have a clue or can chime in on this?

 

Sensor 1 on either bank is the one that's closest to the engine.

 

If im not mistaken... bank 1, sensor 1 and bank 2, sensor 1 are referring to the camshaft postition sensors, which are on the back of the head of your engine.

The O2 sensor is the one by your cats, idk if its before or after, but i hear its EXTREMELY fragile, and you will most likely break it when trying to remove it

hope tht helps

 

I'm getting this code when I did a scan reading.

P1084 (Bank 2). Please help me figure which sensor needs to be changed. The drivers side or the passenger side? Thanks.

 

p1084 in the 07 service manual is the EVT control position sensor. Not sure what year your car is though. If it's an 03-05 non-revup it would mean something else b/c they don't have EVT and could also be different for an 06 even if it is a revup with EVT.

taken from post 15 @ http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-...ode-p1084.html

 

Thank you very much. i do have a '05 rev-up G35c. As of now, i'm leaning towards it meaning the exhaust camshaft position sensor is bad.


Bank number two is the drives side right? This thread had confused me a little bit. Thanks again.

 

I recently noticed my Service Engine Soon light turned on. Then yesterday, while driving home, my car suddenly stopped and a whole bunch of lights turned on the dash and I couldn't go faster than 5mph. I put the car in park, closed the engine and tried to restart it but it didn't want to. Finally I got it started, and got home. I hooked it up to my tester, and got the P0345 error code, which has something to do with this thread and the camshaft. Now, I am willing to order the parts online and doing it myself and I was wondering where I can get the parts for this error code (the exact link to the parts so all I can do is pay for them, as I don't know from where I should order them and which exact part I need). If anyone can help me that would be greatly appreciated.
I have read that it could be the driver's or passenger cam shaft sensor that could be faulty, and I would like to replace both so I do not need to worry about this issue again.

Thanks for your time