I have done nothing on mine. Car still has check engine light onand throws codes P0327 and P0011. I cant get car inspected with CEL on so I bought anti knock sensor and plan to put it on next week.

 

I found it is possible to change this sensor from the passenger side, without removing the throttle. I broke a hex wrench off in one of the throttle bolts long ago (and forgotten), so couldn't get to it the normal way. It might be possible to do the whole thing without removing any of the intake parts, though you would have to do the connector blind. The trick to releasing the connector is to use pliers to pinch the green part down all the way.

 

So there is clearance to get under the intake to change the anti-knock sensor? I need to remove the cover and look more closely at this. That has been one of the reasons it has taken so long for me is that I was anticipatiting time req'd to take the intake and all the rest off.

 

I started having the same stall at a stop and hard starting very shortly after I had my radiator and hoses replaced after they cracked from overheating due to a stuck thermostat. Seems like the extra high temp may have caused mine to freak out. Just wanted to say that this thread helped me a lot with changing my Bank 2 sensor last night. I Tested both sensors per the instructions and both "appeared" to be working (both had none 0 or OL). Car started perfectly, idled all the way up to operating temp and had no problems. I guess we'll see how she does this week.

Thanks again OP

 

Yet another note of thanks for this thread. My car was throwing p0340... slip, vdc, and ses lights on. Ordered OEM cam position sensors from z1 and swapped them yesterday. Hardest part was figuring out how the connector unclips... Pinch the release lever toward front of car and it clicks into an unlocked position and can be slid off easily. On the passenger side I found it easier to remove the sensor from the head first then undo the connector it since the release lever is on bottom. Driver side was blind but not difficult after familiarizing on the passenger one.

 

Anyone found any shortcuts to doing the knock sensor? Or is there a way to test the harness with it in place and hooked up? Learning a bit more on the knock sensor it seems it or a broke harness can cause all sorts of problems that dont necessarily turn on the CEL.
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Although the robotic narrative is creepy this video does explain how the computer is using the knock sensor as a "stethescope" and altering engine timing based on what it "hears" Since it doesnt always throw a CEL people may be driving around with reduced performance and/or gas mileage and have no warning to let them know there is a problem.

 

What code does it give when the knock sensor is out?

I've been been having issues with the p0011 so I took it to a local shop and they said I needed to replace my timing solenoid on bank one. After replacing it the SES light came back on so I took it rite back and p0011 came back on and p03?? (Can remember the code off the top of my head) it was the random miss fireing.

Took the car back they check are the electric/harness then check the oil pressure and the bank 1 side (passenger side) comes out a little low so the mechanic told me its something inside the engine that's bloocking the oil and that I should take it to the steelership to have it checked out.

Also after driving it the second day half ways home driving in the rain car stalled a bit after a complete stop, had to give it a little gas for it to respond also tried putting it in Manuel stick and it did not work car moved the the auto stick option didn't work.

I'm thinking about doing the Seafoam in the engine thing.
Any impute is appreciated

 

P0327 is the knock sensor and by itself, wont light up the CEL. P011 is intake valve timing or Crank or camshaft position sensor. Knowing what I know now that the bad knock sensor can affect timing makes me think that the P0327 knock sensor code can influence other timing codes like the P011code you are seeing.

 

Is the nock sensor easy to replace? Also any easy way to check if it need to be replaced?

 

Unfortunately its not easy as it's under the upper and lower plenum. I am about to replace mine and I will look for shortcuts but the research I have done indicates it isnt one you can shortcut. Even if you do all the disassembly there are a fair number of reports indicating the harness is actually faulty and not the sensor. I will post up my findings on this.

I started with all the warning lights coming on and replaced passenger side cam position sensor. Once it was replaced all lights went out but within a few miles CEL returned now throwing P011 and P0327 codes. Sounds very familiar to yours.

EDIT: I now have my knock sensor out. It was tough getting to it and I see no easy way around getting access. The harness now is very suspect as the sensor itself checks ok according to the service manual. Also, there is much more to the harness than just a cable with two plugs at each end. I pulled the protective plastic off of it to reveal what appears to be a a spliced insection of mini coax cable.

To keep this thread on topic,I'll create a new thread for P0327 and P0328 codes which BTW,are both knock sensor or circuit codes which indicate low voltage sensed and high voltage sensed respectively.

EDIT 2: I Replaced the knock sensor and harness and all is working now. My experience and DIY is here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/general...ml#post6687471

 

Ok so i have similar issues..

I had new engine built, turbo put on, AAM fuel system put on, wire tuck done. LOTS of variables huh....

Anyway, engine had spark plugs removed and oil pressure brought up, plugs back in and would crank over but not start, only one spark when testing a coil pack and after that one spark no more...

Flywheel is lined up with the alignment pin.
I have 2 sets of cam angle sensors from 2 working engines
only one camshaft position sensor.

I tried the testing for pins 1 + 2, 1 + 3, 2 + 3,
resistance in ohms was:
Passenger side: .8xx, .8xx, 1.2x (both sensors)
Drivers side: .7xx, .7xx, 1.2x (other sensor was 3.6, 3.6, 1.2) so pins 1+2 and 1+3 way different...
Camshaft position was .8xx, .8xx, 1.2x
Knock sensor (had a spare) .5xx
Oil pressure 43xx

Cant find any info to what they are supposed to be..

So i swapped out passenger sensor first and car started for the very first time, ran smooth, idle like 600 rpm, VDC, Slip and CEL was on thou.. Car ran for about 1-2mins and i was quickly trying to bleed air out of radiator, water was coming out of bleed screw and then engine cut out... not sure if water was coincidence..

So i tried to turn car back on, no go. I swapped out the drivers side sensor and car still no go. Checked error codes got p0340 (which is passenger side sensor), i swapped the drivers side as i didnt know at the time and reset ECU, tried starting and no go, now i get code 0350, so i swap passenger side sensor and still 0350..

Any ideas? I mean is it possible i have two sets of faulty sensors?? Or has the timing of the timing chains not been done correctly by engine builder and sensors cannot figure out what is going on?

 

Used this post to change the driver cam sensor (Bank 2). very informational and straight forward. Thanks!

 

Thank you for this post. My 2003.5 coupe with a little over 100K miles started acting up the other day with the SES, VDC and SLIP lights coming on. I did notice the whip was slow to accelerate and less responsive and it took almost 4 secs of cranking to start her. Before it took 1/2sec to start. Well I took it a mechanic and had him scan the codes which he said the cam and crank sensors needed to be replaced. He estimated $370 for the fix. I went home, found this post and ordered the parts from infinitipartsusa.com for $245shipped next day. Installed them with this fine post in about 2hrs, reset the ECU and now she's back to purring like a kitten. Thank you all for all the tips and inputs. I can use the saved money towards another optima yellow top and a new set of NGK platinums!

 

Can you buy the cam angle sensor plugs, mine were damaged and dont stay on now..

 

Great info. Was driving my new to me G35 ( about 90k miles of which I have only driven 1k) when it stuttered during a 35mph drive. Next startup was slow and the Slip and VDC off lights came on with the service light. Found the forum, pulled a code at the auto store and replaced the passenger cam sensor, cleared codes and they came right back. Picked up the driver side sensor but didn;t want to remove anything so I went at it from underneath. With my sleeves pulled back I was barely able to reach from underneath. Had to use a flat blade driver to gently pry the sensor out to break the O-ring tension. After that it was easy. I think next time I would remove the O2 sensor to give just a little more room. Cleared codes and it has behaved since then.