Will take pics of the missing block soon though…

Last I remember, it’s at the top right of the photo, it’s noticeable but I didn’t really get a good shot

The ring on the right was a part of the flexplate on the left then it snapped off…

 

Yep, complete failure of the flex plate as well as fractured off a huge chunk of the engine block casting. You're in the market for a new engine. Here is the section that's missing from your engine block.

Here is mine when I had the tranny off last.




And here is yours missing a huge chunk of metal.

 

Were you missing a bolt on the starter? I'm still trying to figure out how that chunk of the casting broke off and the only thing I can figure is the starter motor was missing the bottom bolt so it just torqued against the top one and broke that piece off.

EDIT: NEVERMIND, the starter doesn't use any holes on the top like that. Must have been something flung off from when the flexplate failed. Probably shot a loose bolt against that part of the block at a billion miles per hour.

 

The flex plate to torque converter bolts are about 16" diameter which gives a circumference of just over 50 inches.

50 x redline rpm of 6500 = 325,000 inches per minute.

That converts to 307 mph. Definitely enough to launch a torque converter bolt out of the side of the engine.

 

Oh DAMN that’s a huge piece of metal I lost, I’m not really sure I need a new engine though, we replaced everything and up to this day, car runs fine I believe other than the idle running at 500 rpm (Hot) no shuddering or stuttering or hard starts or long ones, which I believe the problem for the lowish idle would be a little crack in my intake hose because the tranny would slip at high rpm or you know (when racing), it’s something I read up more on the forums, now my new problem is my damn cluster doesn’t read it’s gas right, the oem gauge was changed in the first place cause my manual mode didn’t work unless I switched the cluster which fixed it but at the cost of my new gas gauge not working right and dimming lights on it and wrong mileage (A small price to pay for salvation)

Also I see you EVERYWHERE because I’ve been looking at other forums, you’re like the old grandmaster on these forums cause you been on here for a while. Thank you for the help you’ve given us all

 

If the car is working fine missing that metal on the back then just drive it Missing the dowel pin in that location isn't the end of the world, at stock power levels it will probably never be an issue.

As for the gas gauge, you can check resistance on the harness below the rear seat. It's a very quick and easy diagnosis to see if one of the two fuel level senders (saddle tank so two fuel level sensors) is starting to crap out.

In the meantime just go off your odometer, I've been driving with a bad sender for over a year because I've been really lazy about pulling the one malfunctioning.