advancing timing 2 degrees with NA stock cars
#1
advancing timing 2 degrees with NA stock cars
Hello folks,
I've got CIPHER which allows me to advance timing 2 degrees I believe.
Any safety issues I need to look out for? (my only perf mods so far are MD Iso thermal spacer + K&N)
Should I keep an eye on the AFR? And make sure it doesn't go over X?
(X = what number?)
The dyno on UPRev's site shows about a 8 hp/torque gain from doing this (on a Titan)...
I've got CIPHER which allows me to advance timing 2 degrees I believe.
Any safety issues I need to look out for? (my only perf mods so far are MD Iso thermal spacer + K&N)
Should I keep an eye on the AFR? And make sure it doesn't go over X?
(X = what number?)
The dyno on UPRev's site shows about a 8 hp/torque gain from doing this (on a Titan)...
#3
For a second, I was thinking that was your dyno graph. It was my understanding that the VQ motor has a knock sensor that will optimally set the timing to produce the most power without pinging. However, I'm guessing that Nissan has it set so that there's some margin of safety, so you could technically get some more hp by advancing the timing. 8hp? Maybe not.
#4
I heard from a tuner that the stock timing maps are so aggressive that if you advance it 2 degrees, the learning algorithms will just tune it right back out over time. He said they basically just use it to move the timing back 2 degrees for some added safety witih FI. I haven't verified this myself with the Cipher yet.
Regarding safety issues, I wouldn't worry about it. The knock sensors will save you. And your injected AFRs shouldn't change, just the point where the burn starts in the stroke.
Regarding safety issues, I wouldn't worry about it. The knock sensors will save you. And your injected AFRs shouldn't change, just the point where the burn starts in the stroke.
Last edited by MechEE; 02-17-2006 at 05:37 PM.
#5
#6
Originally Posted by DaveB
I've read that advancing the timing via the Consult tool on the VQ35s does absolutely nothing because all it adjusts is the base timing. Once you go WOT, the additional 2 degree advance plays no part in the equation because the ECU pays no attention to base timing at that point.
#7
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I had it done to mine. I made a long post about it when I first got it done [too lazy to search for it]. It did absolutely nothing, I didn't feel anymore power, it didnt sound any different. Its a waste of time. I kept the two degrees in there cuzz it didn't seem to hurt anything... Don't fret over this.
However, if you are dead set on it here is my 2cents: Drive the hell out of your car [so it goes into the most aggressive map] then take it in to have the timing bumped however you like it [the dealer is capable of doing up to 3 or 4 degrees depending on year - my 04.5 only took 2]. And be sure the car STAYS in that map and does not switch.
Ontop of that I thought it always went advance = torque / retard = horsepower. Atleast thats what school taught me?
However, if you are dead set on it here is my 2cents: Drive the hell out of your car [so it goes into the most aggressive map] then take it in to have the timing bumped however you like it [the dealer is capable of doing up to 3 or 4 degrees depending on year - my 04.5 only took 2]. And be sure the car STAYS in that map and does not switch.
Ontop of that I thought it always went advance = torque / retard = horsepower. Atleast thats what school taught me?
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#8
Originally Posted by HomieG35
Ontop of that I thought it always went advance = torque / retard = horsepower. Atleast thats what school taught me?
With regards to what was said earlier, I think base timing is the timing of the spark at idle. The term came from earlier engines where the timing was physically advanced by the amount of vacuum produced by the engine. So the base timing referred to the point where vacuum was the least. As engine rpm increases, the timing of the spark has to advance in order to keep the burn efficiency high. Prior to knock sensors, the advance of the timing was just an estimate. That's why advancing the timing on a 5.0 Mustang was worth 10hp. The factory setting was too conservative. Now a days with knock sensors, an engine can run closer to that optimum timing without much danger.
#9
Originally Posted by badtziscool
I don't think that's quite true. More torque IS more horsepower. Torque is a force. Horsepower is power which is force/time. More force over an equal time equals more power.
With regards to what was said earlier, I think base timing is the timing of the spark at idle. The term came from earlier engines where the timing was physically advanced by the amount of vacuum produced by the engine. So the base timing referred to the point where vacuum was the least. As engine rpm increases, the timing of the spark has to advance in order to keep the burn efficiency high. Prior to knock sensors, the advance of the timing was just an estimate. That's why advancing the timing on a 5.0 Mustang was worth 10hp. The factory setting was too conservative. Now a days with knock sensors, an engine can run closer to that optimum timing without much danger.
With regards to what was said earlier, I think base timing is the timing of the spark at idle. The term came from earlier engines where the timing was physically advanced by the amount of vacuum produced by the engine. So the base timing referred to the point where vacuum was the least. As engine rpm increases, the timing of the spark has to advance in order to keep the burn efficiency high. Prior to knock sensors, the advance of the timing was just an estimate. That's why advancing the timing on a 5.0 Mustang was worth 10hp. The factory setting was too conservative. Now a days with knock sensors, an engine can run closer to that optimum timing without much danger.
And torque is a moment, not a force. And power is work over time, not force over time. More force over the same distance over an equal time equals more power. Not that this is really relevant to the discussion, but I wanted to clear that up.
#10
On Boxing Day I had Cipher advance timing to 17 degrees. I thought I felt difference. Any gain was not as when ½” MD spacer was installed. But it could also have been placebo effect. Month latter, I had half a tank of 91 octane gasoline put by mistake and then filled up with 93 octane. Few days after I had P0303 DTC. It might be related or not, regardless, I changed it back to 15.
#11
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