So I've driven another 15 miles so, of course that means a new problem.

I've decided already this one is the ECU, but I figured I'd through it out here anyway.

What's wrong:

When oil temp gets to about 160degrees (5-10 minutes of driving) my power-band becomes limited to before my stall converter (about 3300 RPMs) after that it will just bog out almost like hitting a rev limiter (but it will still rev through it if you gas it, but I'm not that stupid) A:F meter is reading 10.0.

Then we've got the flashing air bag symbol.

And of course- The display from the ECU on my DDIN randomly will fade and flicker (All other inputs come in crystal clear)


Think HKS will help me out with this?

 

Added note: Before the 10 minutes or driving it runs through the power band pretty well

(Just pretty rich, for you who remember that thread )

 

maybe I remembered it wrong but didn't u mention awhile back about having water getting into that side of the panel from the rain or washing?

 

Yeah once, I had towels with me- and plugged the hole as soon as it stopped raining. there's like a 0% chance that did anything.

 

jtram towels dont really plug the hole. and did you verify that nothing shorted out, etc??

 

Hey no **** *******- I PLUGGED the hole with silicone it didn't get wet.

I guess I just need HKS customer service #?

 

hey remember who has the greddy bumpers okay

 

If your problem is corrupted firmware, a re-flash may work. If it is a hardware issue, you're probably out of luck. Either way, somebody with re-flash capability should be able to identify the problem.

Sam at GTM re-flashed my ECU (with a one day turnaround ) and it solved my issues. Forged Performance now also has in-house fe-flash cabability. Both Sharif and Sam know their sh*t. You may want to call one of them and ask their opinion.

Forged Performance is closer to you, and UPS ground only takes two days between there and So. Fla.

With respect to your AFR, what EMS are you running? After you get the ECU issue resolved, if it is NOT an F-CON, you might try slightly reducing the fuel flow at the RPM/MAP where you are seeing a 10 AFR. Make very small adjustments and test drive after each one. You can keep making the adjustments until the AFR is where you want it to be.

If you have an F-CON, it may be worth a trip up to Performance Factory or Forged Performance (considering your issues with your local HKS dealer).

 

I appreciate the input but I'm pretty sure I should just send this box up to HKS... if anyone has contact info?

 

HKS told me I have to take it to a direct dealer to fix it


AWESOME...

I'd love to go to japtrix, but they hate me and won't even listen to me. (plus since they sold to me they should do warentee work for it and have hks compensate them ... right?) Im sure they'd just charge me anyway.

I'd love to go to PF, but they're closing or something

So I guess Im going to ****ing GA or something.

I'm going on vacation for a few weeks- ill figure it out after that.