so i talked to Dyno-Comp in scottsdale AZ and they say it was caused by overrev and it snapped the rod nothing to the piston. they said 99% chance of it not happening again. tuned safely at 7psi as long as i dont overrev it all the time nothing will happen.

and as far as me being 17 and owning my own TT G35, i paid for it all myself. i got hit by a car on my bike and got 15,000$ which paid for the car stock + 3,000 from work at age 15. then the 20,000$ i've but into the car on aftermarket parts is from working 3 hard jobs ALL the time and doing work to cars for good $$. i would not be able to fix anything if it wasn't for the superbowl. i have season tickets for the cardinals since i live in AZ and got 2 tickets for 1600 and will be selling for around 3000 hopefully.

the new engine and my engine parts are being transferred over to the new stock engine now so it is too late to just rebuild my old motor. i will drive it carefully for a month or two before letting lose to see how it goes. i plan on rebuilding my old motor on the side myself... (where is the best place to get a new rod and the parts around it? preferable stronger ones? if recommended?

 

Canadian - how much did it cost to build your engine/tranny and wat did you do to it to handle your TT?

 

/\ so did you really overreved? You should know it at least coz you are the driver. I redline my car so many times and even hit my rev limiter a few times when I was powershifting at the track. Ofcourse your tuner will try to blame your driving.. lol

Here check out Kyle coz at http://www.importpartspro.com/shblpa.html You can get a stage 1 shortblock for under 3K..

 

I totally sympathize.

But at least I'm not the only one to over-rev a motor.

I damaged my rod bearings on the number 3 and 5 cylinders. It also looks like I damaged a JWT valve spring, and maybe even bent one or two Ferrea valves. I don't yet have the valve train analysis, but I had oil leaking into two intake ports. Also, the cap over one of the valve springs was sitting unusually low with a bit of a gap between the cap and the cam. That caused the ticking sound that started after I over-revved the motor.

I keep reminding myself that this is high performance and these motors were never designed to be pushed this hard. All that said, to me, it's still worth it. As the old adage says, "you gotta pay to play."

 

+1

The guy he is talking about essentually said that Japtrix blew his motor because he was running a little rich (i.e. he noticed that once in a while his AFR dropped slightly below 10, although the dyno chart showed the AFR dipped to 10.7). How does that blow up a motor?

Short answer, it doesn't. In fact, running slightly rich adds a margin of safety... Now if you run so rich that you wash the cylinders, that is a different story, but there was absolutely no indication of that.

Notwithstanding, everybody hears "a motor blew up" and start to spread a tale that the shop in question must suck. Sometimes the shop sucks, sometimes it doesn't. But unless someone has been to a shop and dealt with that shop themself, they should not give an opinion because oftentimes their opinion is based on bad information and, sometimes, downright lies.

I damaged my motor. I revved the living **** out of it (I pegged the tachometer until it hit a brick wall), doing something my tuner told me not to do until everything was tested because I had a borrowed EMS and we were not even finished tuning the car by the time I had to leave. Could I come on here and blame somebody else for my own stupidity. Yes, and many people do. But the simple fact is that I f*cked up, and had I listened to my tuner, it never would have happened. Unfortunately, there are some people in this forum that, instead of being truthful about what happened with their motor, try to pin the blame on somebody else. Sad, but true.

Edit: Also, before it gets asked, my short block was built by one very good and reputable builder, and my heads were build by another (i.e., different) very good and reputable builder. I (meaning me, myself and only I) did damage to them both. I'm not going to try to throw somebody else under the bus to cover my own mistake or try to get somebody else to pay for my mistake. Life is short, be honest and do unto others as you would have them do unto you (beleive it or not, I'm not religious, but I have very strong convictions about what is right and and what is wrong!).

 

If you're 5AT how did you overrev the motor? Wait, if you're 6MT and you didn't misshift how did you overrev the motor? That is BS, we have rev-limiters for a reason. Unless the rev limiter was removed by your tuner without your knowledge, overrevving your motor is NOT an excuse for your motor to blow. As I said in my previous post I've hit the rev limiter at least a 1000 times and has my motor blown..? No.

Anyway, my motor is stock right now. It is not built.

A guy here locally built my tranny, I'm going to send you a PM.

 

i have a 5AT.. and if that is true with the overreving it has to be the tuner's fault. but how do i put the blame on him? the day my rod broke, i did a 360 burning rubber the whole time. for about an hour after that i drove pretty fast flooring it lots then right when on the freeway floored it and at 85mph it blew. it is a 5AT so you could be right on the overreving not being possible. how else would it happen then?

 

how much should uninstalling my blown block and installing the new block cost? how many hours of labor?

how much is a 04 350z engine w/ 42,000 miles on it worth?

 

Call a few shops to see how much they charge and that will give you a good idea on price.

 

In my case, the rev limiter is set in the F-CON. After I (me myself and I) caught my F-CON on fire because I stupidly crimped a wire while it was still connected to my F-CON, I borrowed an F-CON that was a different version from the one I had. Both Roger and John told me to be careful because my map was setup in my F-CON, and not the one I borrowed. And realize I was trying to get the F*** out of there to get down to homestead. Look, they warned me to be careful and to take it easy until my new F-CON came in. Obviously, I did not listen to them.

Who's fault is it? Mine or theirs? I'm the guy paying the bills and beleive me, if I thought they did anything wrong to cause the damage, I certainly would have called them out. But they were telling me to be careful and were kind enough to loan me another F-CON out of John's car (he actually went home and pulled it out for me!!!). Moreover, I was with them when they set the jumpers. 100% per the manual. I also sat there while my map was loaded into the borrowed unit.

I don't like pissing away money (actually, alot of money), but I know and ADMIT to what happened. I tried a WOT shift and the rev limiter did not kick in. Done. I was warned to be careful, which to me means I should not have been doing a WOT shift on a borrowed F-CON that had not been fully tested with my map/settings. I learned a lesson. Moreover, Roger was way, way more upset than me. I laughed about it. He was genuinly upset. He worked his @ss off to get me ready for Homestead. I insisted on a lot of last minute modifications (and even jumped in there to do the wiring changes), and these things happen. I'm an engineer (even in my present profession). I know not to crimp a wire while it is still connected, but I got so caught up in the moment that I spaced. Is that his fault??? Absolutely not.

You may say that Roger should not have let me work on my own car, but that is one of the reasons I like working with Japtrix so much. The fact I can jump in their means alot. It makes my build genuinely special to me. OK, I screwed something up and it cost me money. But hey, I have a real connection to my car. If I had the time and facilities to do everything myself, I would have (although it would probably cost me even more money in stupid mistakes ). Working with Roger has been a really great, great experience!!!

 

Don't be so hard on yourself, these things can happen to anyone

 

Thank you!

I know they do. All in all, this entire experience has been great and I am so glad I decided to do this!!!

I was replying to Canadian's post. I have a 6MT with a rev limiter. And yes, the rev limiter typically does kick in. But if you have settings/maps from one F-CON and load it into another F-CON that is a different version, the rev limiter may not kick in, as I found out. I know the map was good because I was doing WOT shifts (actually, alot of them ) for about three weeks with my F-CON before I caught it on fire, and everything worked great!

Edit: Thinking about this a little further, an EMS operates based on a processor/controller and firmware. The map/settings are kind of like an applicaiton. How often do apparently unexplainable problems pop up on personal computers? Happens to me more than I would like. Yes, a personal comuter is generally more complex, but when I take a drawing created in Visio 2007 and try to open it in Visio 2002, it doesn't always work. Just a few days ago I created a drawing in Visio 2007 and saved it as a Visio 2002 file for a client, and lines were moved.

After I over-revved my motor we double checked the rev limiter setting and it was set at 7500 rpm. But I think something got screwed up with the way the borrowed F-CON interpreted the file generated in the newer F-CON. Just my guess. But this I do know: the rev limiter was still set at 7500 rpm. I sat there when we viewed the map in the borrowed F-CON. I also know that the rev-limiiter did not kick in during the WOT shift with the borrowed F-CON (because I was driving), but it always worked with my F-CON. It has to be a software/firmware glitch, or an incompatibility with taking the file from a newer F-CON and using it on an older version. That is the only explanation I can think of.

And, NO, the tuner's absolutely were not doing any funny business.

 

well..............I started with a 100 shot of nitrous within the 1st few months of ownership....no ems for that setup.

then, I bought a TN single turbo kit and a utec about 2.5 years ago. I sold that kit within 6 months (hated the kit) and then added a greddy twin kit w/ a SpeedForce Racing dual intercoolers.. I am still using the UTEC for all my tuning and also for controlling the wastegates.

 

I just skipped over this thread. I like how we went from....I was just driving down the freeway and it blew....to...I was doing donuts and 360's for hours the day it blew.

The fact is, that stock block FI is safe. It's funny how we have tuned/built well over a hundred or so TT's and SC's on stock engines, and never had one single issue with a stock engine destorying itself. Coincidence? Or maybe just sticking the basics. Good kit selection, good fuel and EMS, and a solid/safe tune. End of worries.

 

I think this unfortunate story should be a warning to those considering on adding forced induction to you car (regardless of make). When adding forced induction you must:

1) Understand what you're doing. Do a lot of research.

2) Be a stellar shadetree mechanic or be really good friends with a shop that understands forced induction and how to trouble shoot it.

3) Have alternate transportation available at all times.

4) Expect to have lot of little annoying problems and don't expect OEM driveability or reliability.

5) Get the best tuning and safeguards. If you can't afford them, then you get afford adding forced induction to an NA motor.

6) The VQ35 is glass. I know there are many running stock VQ35's with boost and no problems, but there are more out there that wrecked their motors. The rings and rods on these cars are weak and the compression ratio is a bit too high for forced induction. The VQ30 is a far stouter motor, but that's a different story. If you boost a stock VQ35, you're walking on egg shells. It may last 20 miles or it may last 20K miles, but don't expect any sort of long term reliability. You can add all the tuning and safeguards you want, but there's still no getting around some of the weak internal parts. If you're going to boost these motors, replacing the rods, pistons, and rings is a must as well as upgrading the cooling system (simply a larger rad). After that's done, you're pretty much golden assuming you're builder knows VQs, inside and out.

When it's all said and done, you should expect to throw down about $15K to have a relatively stout and trouble free boosted VQ35.