Lol. Was able to put Gran Turismo 5 down. I did find the fuel rails Eno. I am sure I can find the JWT rising rate regulator as well. Eno you have PM.

 

If those turbos are set at 10psi you will have not problem raching 400+. One of my customers just put down 450rwhp- 435 rwtq @ 11psi on a stock DE motor. This was done on the stock returnless fuel system with 550cc injectors and walbro 255lph fuel pump.

I would at least get some 550cc injectors (I have some in stock as well). They are more than enough for a stock motor with an upgraded fuel pump. You can always go with a full return system down the road once (if) you build the motor. If you go to cj-motorsports.com you can also get a stage 0 fuel return kit for under $500, not a bad option either.


Gord, the Aeromotive FPR's are also a rising rate regulators. The ratio is only 1:1 though.
Good luck with the build, looking forward to the results and pictures.

 

I have made the arangement with Gord and purchased his 680cc injectors so injectors will definitely not be an issue. Our concern was more whether the stock rails will accommodate those injectors. Sounds like there's a good chance that they will.

Also- in keeping with my concerns about my clutch packs... if I build up the fuel system too much there's a chance my engine will be fine but my transmission will be in a million pieces without ever leaving the dyno. Thing is (and no I'm not intentionally delivering sunshine in any alimentary canals), I have a chance here to buy some used parts from guys I trust... probably an opportunity I don't want to be disgarding.

Do fuel rails and fuel return system go hand in hand? Can I overbuild upstream (with injectors, rails and FMU / Rising Rate Regulator) and go without fuel return? Is that like making a delicious meal just to throw it in the trash and serve it out of the garbage can?

I'm seeing that fuel return is something that can be made, and it sounds like I have access to the parts... and undoubtedly the knowledge base to do it right... I'm no poker player but someone once told me that you don't fold with four aces. I think I saw it on Discovery Channel once.

And- most importantly now- can I then turn around and keep boost relatively low until I can get my weaker links upgraded?

 

sorry I must have missed that. Those are more than big enough.

I built my own return system, and to be honest it was easy to do. I ended up cutting the ends of my OEM fuel rails off and welding some #6 an fititngs on:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/S1031166.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/S1031246.jpg

The rest is simple plumbing. Also keep in mind that in order to go past 550whp (maybe a bit less on the auto) you will already be maxing out your single Walbro 255lph fuel pump. So if you plan on going past that, you will need twin pumps, or get a meth kit.

Modified OEM fuel rails (like my) will flow 800hp+ (dyno proven on 350z's), so you don't really need to upgrade to a large set. This of course was with twin pumps and a larger than stock feed line right from the fuel tank.

 

If you can get the rails from red I would do that and then it is pretty much just running some -6 lines.

Why is everyone so negative about COBB? The reason they quit offering it for pretty much all of the NA platforms is because the gains are minimal and sales were poor however they still offer units for pretty much every popular turbo car on the market. People have run over 550whp with an ECU re-flashes before...COBB is exactly that an ECU re-flash I personally would choose a COBB for stock block moderate power goal. I would stay the hell away from an E-manage, U-tech or any other piggy back. If it is a big build and your willing to spend the $$$$ standalone are the way to go at that point. It really comes down to the tuner you can have the best EMU on the planet if the tuner is not comfortable with it you are not going to have good results.

No Ian you can not turn you boost down below the waste gate pressure so you will be stuck at 10psi. That is why i am stuck at 21psi....I would rather run about 15psi on my stock engine!!!

Also i am pretty sure the rising rate JWT or the Vortech one will work with a return system.

 

Why not just get some .5 bar actuators and run a EBC? I know it would be a PITA for you to change it out Gord, but Ian still can as his turbs are out.

 

What's the reasoning with not liking piggyback systems gord?

 

I think he may be talking about specific to my build with my power goals... when I already have a COBB- which sounds like enough until I get more exotic.

 

Yes most likely. But the way he worded it makes piggyback seem like the devil.

 

Ridiculous- we all know that it is in fact engine sludge that is the devil!

 

Indeed. As to why I plan on blowing it out with 15 pounds of **** your pants awesome.

 

my utec is good enough for moderate power goals (what im running) but when it changes from MAF to MAP sensor because to much air is flowing there is a transition point that is very hard to tune and i sometimes get rich-missfire.
cobb, and other standalones are much easier to tune.

 

I thought that's what you were running Wayne. So the utec uses both map and maf signals? Wtfbbq? What are you using fer fuel system.

 

no i sold the cobb before i went to FI! yes it lets the car use the factory settings under normal driving then switches to MAP under more load and takes over fueling, timing. im using a walbro 255l pump and detaschwerks 600cc injectors. stock rails, lines.

 

They seem to be very hard to tune, for our car as Wayne stated they seem to have a nasty transition period. I have heard of very few guys that know what they are talking about being happy with a piggy back. The split second box I had that was tuned by JWT worked great it was flawless, but they are brutal to tune. Unless they are plug and play they also need to installed so you have to cut up you harness and if your goals in the end a larger you have to uninstall it and install a standalone. In my personal opinion a COBB, Up-Rev or Technosquare tune is optimal for a stock engine build and standalones are the way to go for over 500whp. i am not saying other things can't work ot won't work but that is my opinion on engine management.

I agree with Sasha maybe you should look at getting different actuators for your waste gates. The 530bb turbos come with 7psi ones. I think you can even adjust the tension rods so they open sooner. I talked with Jim Wolf on this matter and that is what he suggested I do is loosen off the tension on the actuators(you will see on your turbos the threaded rod with bolts on it) he exact words were "you can do it with the turbos in the car but you will be fukin pissed off by the time you get it done". I didn't really want to screw with mine because I thought I will have one waste gate open at 5psi and one at 15psi with mu luck and I thought the stock engine was only temporary. However in your case now would be the time to do I would contact JWT and see about purchasing some 7psi actuators I doubt they would be very expensive they have an email link on the JWT web site that gets quick response on Jim has even answered a few of my questions from there. On occasion I have even talked with him on the phone but make sure you have at least an hour if you get him on the phone he can talk!!!