Hey guys,

So after months of research here and at my350, I am getting ready to finally take the plunge into the FI world. I decided to go with a Vortech on my 04 6MT Coupe since I am currently at 100K (the G is getting old ), and I love it too much to not use it as my DD. Just got a compression test and got 200 readings on all cylinders...VQ is healthy and ready for boost!

I have compiled a list that I think is pretty comprehensive to everything that I need to run a Vortech V2 Kit safely and reliably. I was wondering if the knowledgeable FI guys could look over my list and let me know if they agree with my choices, and if there are some things that I should do differently. If there are things that I don't need, let me know and I'll remove it and save a few bucks.

Thanks!

Mods already in the car which will help with FI:
(The rest of my mods can be seen in my progress thread)

JWT Clutch/Flywheel
Art Pipes
HKS Exhaust
Volk GTS with 275/35 rears
Stillen Front & Rear Sways
BC Coilovers
5/16 Plenum Spacer
2 Step Colder NGK Iridium Plugs (wanted 1 step colder, but shop ended up doing otherwise)
Mishimoto silicone hoses
Upgraded rotos/SS Brake lines/Project Mu Pads
TS Hood
Just bought a Kuruma to help with airflow to intercooler, will miss the stockish Nismo

Whats next:

Vortech V2 Polished
3.12 Pulley
DW 600cc Injectors - Should I go with 440CCs, or anything lower than 600s?
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
JWT Oil Pan Spacer
Uprev Osiris tune
Bump idle to 900 to avoid SC noises
Gauges (boost, oil pressure, A/F ratio)
Mishimoto Oil Catch Can
Gates stronger belts (don't want to deal with belts slipping)

Things I'm still not sure if I need:

Uprev GT MAF (some say it's needed even at high 300s, some say the stock MAF can handle. I want to be at 400)
Headers
Oil Cooler
GTM Belt Tensioner

Should I tap the upper oil pan or can I just use the taps from the oil spacer?

Is it advisable to buy these items used?
Injectors
Fuel Pump
Oil pan spacer

 

Here is mines you can compare too... Click on link..

https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-...ech-build.html

 

Your list is very inclusive. Heres a few suggestions often overlooked.

Oil pan spacer is better way to go, increased oil capacity and dont need a right angle drill. Also simpler to return to stock.

Not mentioned is air filter. A custom CAI set up will avoid the hassle of damaging filter during installation/removal. Alternative is to modify radiator support which I chose.

Consider drilling hole in belly pan for belt tensioner adjustments.This will avoid the hassle of removing belly pan.

Running the revised belt set up with gates will minimize belt stretch.

Air filter for BPV to min. noise.

 

My tuner has had some issues with dw injectors lately since they started shipping higher volume with the momentum kits and such. Even my car jumps at idle every now and then and it was traced back to one of my
Dw injectors in bank 1. They suggested going with Bosch injectors next time. Go with like a 750, I believe they are the same price and it's better to have extra room in the tuning for the future then to be running a 450-600 cc injector at a high duty cycle. I would also suggest the uprev maf when your pushing that 400 number. I'm on a rev-up using a v3 with a similar setup to you and I put out 419 hp on a conservative tune. The car wanted more but she is my dd as well. Have you thought of going with a v3 and avoiding all of the hassle of having to supply the charger with engine oil?

 

Thanks bud, your thread is very informative. I've looked into it before

Thanks hotrod,

I will go with the pre-tapped oil spacer. I wanted to confirm it since a few members mentioned better dynamics due to the help of gravitational pull from the upper pan.
I will look into drilling the belly pan, to be honest I've never seen that mentioned anywhere else... including my350's 90+ Vortech thread that was a fun day at work lol
Do you have the GTM belt mod?
I plan on getting the BPV pipe and filter filling once I get annoyed by the noise... I think I have a solid 4 weeks before that happens though

Thanks.
I will keep that in mind, but don't want to go with bigger injectors to avoid hot start issues.
I want to keep it at 500CC-600CC, in order to stay away from issues with starting the car.

New bumper, ready for the IC

 

What's up bud... I'm in the same boat as you.

I have the V3 kit, GTR injectors, AAM fuel return, 255 pump, 3.12, osiris, and a few other things all sitting in the closet. Won't be able to get to the install till March which is killing me.

During my research, if you are going with 440 injectors you may lose pressure up top which is why many people go with 600cc injectors. Unless, you get a fuel return system which allows you to utilize the full injectors cc capacity. I picked on up for the added insurance and steady A/F mixture when it gets tuned.

When is yours going in?

 

I had hot start issue at first with my ID 725cc but after the break in period, my tuner was able to fix the issue. I have no hot or cold start issue. Car runs like stock!

 

Cool, you seem to have it all ready to go!
I hope to have it done by late Feb or early March. However I'm not in a crazy hurry, so if it takes a little longer to make sure it comes out perfect, I won't mind.

 

Your list look very similar to mine.

I would also look into the Mocal thermosatic oil filter adapter plate to go with your oil cooler.

 

Cool that's good to hear, cuz if anyone knows their engine stuff it's you
I'll def look into the adapter plate. Haven't seen that mentioned yet.

 

I used a Mitsubishi Timing Belt Tensioner VS GTM pulley. It was $25.00 shipped for pulley.

You will need to adjust belt more frequently than OEM, so belly pan mod saves alot of time.

Mods to help min belt tension which will reduces stretch:
GTM Tensioner Pulley
928 Motorsports jackshaft pulley
Revised belt drive layout (eliminates use of OEM idler pulley)
solid ribbed belt like Gates

Also consider upgrading to silicone couplers and T Bolt clamps for Intercooler Piping.



Ive had a Vortech on my G35 for 7 years

 

I would definitely get the uprev gt maf- no question. Believe me I was hovering around 400 during my break in and a bit beyond and had nothing but trouble because of the stock. You'll end up needing to tune again if you choose to put it in later anyway do might as well do it all at once- right the first time.

 

Hey HotRod,

Thanks. I looked into your list, and I'll def add the GTM Pulley, and Gates belts. To make sure that the GTM Pulley doesnt cause the belt to hit the DE cam cover, I'll have to get the DE cam cover machined. I'll contact Sean to get a nice set of polished/machined covers since he has experience with Vortechs.

I wasn't able to get info on the 928 Motorsports jackshaft pulley. Could you inform me the purpose of it, and which one you are referring to? 928 Motorsports direct weblink to their SC upgrade is here:
http://www.superchargerupgrades.com/

I will use the revised Vortech layout, I will dig out the diagram from my350 once the time comes. Will the belt size be the same as the original layout for the 3.12 pulley? 93.5 if I'm not mistaken?

 

Belt size is smaller which is less belt to stretch.
928 Motorsports pulley is V Cut vs Square cut teeth like Vortech, V cut obviously allows much more contact surface to reduce belt slippage.

I got into a pissing contest on My350z over this mod. I used a spacer behind jackshaft drive pulley to eliminate need for machining cam cover. Experienced no uneven belt wear or noise, but to each his own on that mod.

 

I had hot start issues with my 600cc dw injectors and the tuner got rid of the issue in 5 minutes.